bernard_wiessner

Can I have my N70 camera reprogrammed to leave the film leader out

after rewind?

Thanks to all

Just a question.

How would Nikon know there handling a grey market camera? I've often wondered about this after looking at old cameras at trade shows.

Thanks

Anyone know where I can have a new back installed on my N70?

Thanks to all

How many rolls of 35mm can I expect to get out of 1 liter bottles of

Diafine? I use a single reel 10oz.tank.

Thanks to all

I recently received rolls of Ilfords HP5+ from B&H that are wrapped in white paper. No boxes or containers.

Does anyone know the shelf life of Wimberleys WD2D+ developer?

I have some that is a year old in the formulary bottles.They are

filled to the top and both liquids look clear.I read that some

developers dont change color as they age.I would like to use it but

hate to ruin a roll of film.Any suggestions?.Thank You

Lex has said it all.I use a plastic tank with a screw on lid that has a twirling stick.I can invert or twirl.All the negs look the same.In fact,I find it easier to control agitation with the stick. Good Luck and Happy new Year

The bottle says shake well before using.There is something in this fixer that settles to the bottom and is clearly visible.

Tonghang: I seem to have misplaced my info from paterson, but if my memory is still good I think they said about 3 or 4 months in an unfilled bottle.Sorry I cant be more speficic. Good Luck

You can E Mail Paterson and ask them.I did this for their FX 39 Developer.

I removed the silver bearings from my plastic 120 reel then melted a tiny bit of the plastic down at the spindle after making sure the entrance slots were opposite each other.This locks the reel and then I slide the film into the reel.

Hi Ward

Sorry about that. Yes I meant the A and B not mixed but kept apart in there own bottles. I think that when the two solutions are mixed they should be used right away. Although Hutchings claims they can sit for about an hour before before use to give the film more stain.

Thanks

In Gordon Hutchings book of Pyro,he states the shelf life of PMK is

10 years.Is this true of other Pyro Developers such as Pyrocat or

WD2D+?

 

Thanks to all

I had good results using FP4 in Diafine at E.I.200.Good tonality and extreme sharpness.

I see where the the makers of non solvent high definition developers

call for a higher ASA with their development times for most films.

What can I expect if I use the standard ASA? I know this would be

overexposing,but would it be overdeveloping as well?

 

Thanks to all

I have been looking through a lot of film and developing time charts

and have seen Extol used at 1+1,1+2 and 1+3.However, with D76 or ID11

the dilutions are allways 1+1 or 1+3.Has anyone tried D76 or ID11 at

1+2.I thought I would try it and split the difference with the

developing time. Just curious.

 

Thanks to all

I have been using D76 for for some time now and I like the

results.However,I am tired of mixing chemicals.Is there a liquid

developer that would give me the same results other than Sprint? I

have also wondered why Kodak never made D76 in a liquid concentrate.I

thought I saw somewhere that it was available in Europe but I'm not

really sure.

Thanks to all

Jorge.

My edition was published in 1998.I did not know there was another.

Sorry

Get the book "The film developing cookbook" by Steve Anchell and Bill Troop.Pages 37 and 38 give a very good explanation of stand development.Actually the entire book is excellent.Although they recommend slow or medium speed film,I had very good results with Ilfords HP5 and Delta 400 developed in Patersons FX2.My 35mm neg's are very sharp with good tones from the high to low densities.Yes, this really works but one has to realize that this is just another method of developing film to get a desired result.Checking through all my prints I cant really say they are any better than what I get using my normal developing times with PMK or Ilfosol s or other film and developer combinations.However,I do find it enjoyable to try other combinations even if the results are very near the same.

Good luck with your efforts.

Can anyone give me a E.I. and development time for 35mm HP5+ souped

in IlfosolS to a contrast index of 0.42 for my condenser enlarger?

Thanks to all and a Happy New Year.

Can anyone give me processing times for Neopan 400 and 100 in PMK and

what E.I. should I use ?

Thanks to all

I have used PMK with HP5,Delta 400 and Delta 100 and also with Neopan 400.I usually over expose 1/3 or 1/2 a stop. I get a yellow green stain stain not too dark although the stain seems to vary between different films.This afternoon I souped a role of TRI X and the stain was much darker.I'll call it dark olive. My question is this. Does TRI X always stain this Dark and is there such a thing as too much stain? I din't change my processing methods. Maybe this is a little premature. I'll make some prints tomorrow. Up to now I have been very happy with my PMK prints.I'm getting excellent shadow and highlight detail and all the grays in the middle.Although I have good results with D76 1+1,Rodinal, FX 39,Ilfotec DDX,Dixactol and Ilfosol s I think the merging of tones are slightly better with PMK. I enjoy reading all the forum postings and have gathered much information.

 

Thanks to all and much good luck

The insert for developing times in my box of Rodinal is still listing Panotomic X.1 to 25,5min. 1 to 50,11min. at 68 degrees.I bought it about 4 months ago.How old is this stuff? Anyway,it worked great. Thanks to all and have fun.

The insert for developing times in my box of Rodinal is still listing Panotomic X.1 to 25,5min. 1 to 50,11min. at 68 degrees.I bought it about 4 months ago.How old is this stuff? Anyway,it worked great.