andrew_oneill

I read somewhere that if we were to dump developer, stop, and fixer

together into a bucket, and then throw it on the lawn that that

would be a way of fertilizing it?? Anybody shed some insight into

this?

 

Andrew

In response to Dave: The black residue left over in the tray stays in the tray. Don't worry, I've taken great pains to prevent little critters and human children from getting at it. I'll keep doing this until the day I die and bequeath the tray to my son. Thanks for all who responded!

 

Andrew

I don't know about you, but I am quite paranoid about dumping

selenium toner down the drain. I tried dumping it into a large tray

out back of my house (covered area, no one can touch it). Out of

sight out of mind. I went back a month later, and wouldn't you know

it....most of the water had evaporated out, leaving a black residue

(selenium I reckon) in the tray. So, I added some more exhausted

selenium. Could this be an environmentally sound way of getting rid

of selenium toner?

I'll try to give you a better answer than the smart ass response by Mr. Hawley. I thought the purpose of this forum was to help each other out. Yes, you can process each film, one at a time with the pack films. The advantage of using the 545 back and sheet films is that the sheets are individually packaged and can be exposed, removed from the holder and processed later. This is good if it is cold outside.

I had the same problem with #1 Copal. Sometimes the shutter would close sometimes it wouldn't. I had to fiddle around with it. Drove me nuts sometimes, especially when I had only a few precious minutes to take a photo!!!! I ignored it for a while until the problem worsened. I sent it in and it works like new. Perhaps you should do the same. Cheers!

I own an 8x10 Canham Light weight. It's very unstable but I can't compare it with other 8x10s as this is my first 8x10. I've been using it for 2 years. The stability problem was solved with the attachment of a stabilizer kit. Sorry, I can't comment on the metal version. It is difficult to choose a camera when all you have to rely on are photos. Good luck!

Thanks Eugene! I'll look into Anchell's book.

Cheers!

 

Andrew

Hi everyone! I read somewhere that one can easily mix their own

washing aid for film simply by mixing sodium sulfite and water. Is

this true or did I just dream it. Does anybody know of a formula? I

mix all my own chemistry and I'd like to do the same for the washing

aid. Thanks!!

Thanks for the advice! sorry for the slow thankyou.

 

andrew

Hope you all are having a great Christmas. I'm looking for Dick

Stevens book, Making Kallitypes A Definitive Guide. Anybody know

where I can find it? Is it out of print?

 

Andrew

All I want for Christmas is an Aristo 810 VCLH for my 8x10 enlarger. Do you think Santa will oblige? I've been a good boy.....

...properly exposed, properly developed (by your own standards), and free of pinholes and dust shadows!!

How about people who photograph in B/W and then add colour with washes and oils?

When you do develop them please let us know what on them!!!

I have both axis tilt and base tilt on the front standard. I rarely use base tilt but when I do I find that it is easier to compose and focus, then tilt, and then focus at the back standard. You will have to keep adjusting both the tilt and the focus to get it right. If you base tilt you are also moving the lens closer to your subject. So, get your lens where you want it and then focus at the back if that's possible. Howard Bond has a really good article in Photo Techniques from a few years ago. Check their web site for back issues. Hope I was of some help to you.

I've been using unsharp masks for years now for my 4x5 and 8x10 negs without the aid of a pin registration system. I just use a piece of 3/4 in. particle board. I make an "L" bracket slightly longer than 8x10, and attach on top of particle board. Everything is painted flat black. A piece of black foam rubber, slightly larger than 8x10 is placed inside the "L" bracket and glued down. You can put rubber feet on the bottom to keep from slipping on counter. the masking film and negative are slid into the corner of "L" bracket and sandwiched with anti-newton ring glass. I use this one guide for 4x5 and 8x10 negatives. Negative and mask are then joined together on the light table with scotch tape. Tape is removed when not printing as glue may leak out and ruin the negative. Primitive but it works!

Why don't you try a "notch" system? You'll need 3 different shaped small files such as jeweler's files: V-shape, round, square. The round file use to make half-circle mark which would represent "10". Square mark= "5". V mark="1".

ie: Holder #1= one V; holder #2= 2 V marks. Holder #16 would equal: a half circle, a square mark, and a "V" mark. Make your notches along the film gate's edge that touches the film. I learnt this years ago and it works fine.

I have to go along with what Steve said about TMAX100. Hard to control. I struggled with it for a few years and then heard about Ilford HP5+. I use 4x5 and 8x10. I've been using it for 6 years. I develop in pyro or xtol straight or diluted in tubes and trays.. Now the only time I use TMAX100 is when I make unsharp masks. You could try TMAX400. It's difficult but a much better film. Why don't you just go back to TriX?.....AAAAAAAAAAH! Too many decissions!

I own a Canham 8x10 light weight. The reason why I chose the light weight is because it is indeed light. Upon setting it up on my solid Gitzo tripod, I was shocked at how unstable the back standard was. I use lenses from Nikkor 120 to Fuji 600. I read about stabilizer kits, bought one and tried it. Now my Canham is solid. I use the stabilizer kit from AWB. Check their web site. Sorry I don't have their web address off hand.

Hi everybody! While I was living in Japan I had no problem getting

chemicals from the local drug store to mix my own film developers.

Does anybody know where I can get chemicals in the Vancouver area,

BC area, or anywhere in Canada? Your advice muchly appreciated!

 

Andrew O'Neill

I realize that this response is just short of a year being late....but what they hey! I am a large format Canadian! I use 8x10 (Canham) and sometimes 4x5 (same camera with reducing back)I just got back from Japan (I was there for 12 years!) and maybe there are only 3 old men there who use large format cameras. I was all alone.... Nice to know that I am not alone in Canada. I live in Coquilam which is a short jaunt down trans canada highway. I've almost completed my darkroom. Andrew