b2 -

Andy,

 

Welcome to my nightmare. In the mid'80s I used my 283 with a cable which took the sensor and put it ontop of my M6 and I used the 283 off camera (hand held). I loved it, but I am a bit touched.

 

Taking that into consideration, take a look at an Olympus T32. It too takes 4 AA batteries, but it is small. On camera it has the ability to do a bounce and go closeup (not too often an issue for RF users). The price is right on ebay and you can get replacement shoes for it very easily.

 

Another favorite is a Vivitar 292. You will need to put new batteries in the power pack, but if you are reasonablly handy it's easy. I love it because it is small and also has a remote sensor with hot shoe attached. Rumor has it there is a AA battery pack for it, but I've never been able to get my hands on one.

 

Both the T32 and the 292 have powerful guide-numbers which I think is critical.

 

Just MHO, your mileage may varrrrry.

 

B2 (;->

Dave and Lee,

 

Thanks.

 

That has got it!

 

B2 (;->

OK, how do I tell Nikkor a 28 f2.8 AI from a 28 f2.8 AI-S? EDs, IFs, I can

tell, but this....??@@>#>@<$

 

You guys were so good with the 180mm (I have a manual focus ED on the way!!)

so I figured I would ask.

 

Thanks.

 

B2 (;->

William,

 

Hard question as have have never shot with the 28. My father loved the 35/1.4 and for years his system was 35/1.4, 85/1.8, 180/2.8 and it served him very well.

 

I went wider (24/2.8) and did a number on a lot of head (of friends and otherwise). Of late I am using RF and find the 25/4 CV (not available in F mount) great for every day as it does not seem to have the same head twisting capability as my 24 does.

 

These days I carry a 15/40/105 combo. I find the a little extra distance between lenses allows me to carry less. I think it is for that reason I would go with the 28. Again, having never shot with that lens I can not give you anything more than my 2p.

 

Good luck and let us know how yuou make out.

 

B2 (;->

Again, thanks to everyone. I have enough info to move forward now. Cheers and be safe all. B2 (;->

Michael, thanks, that's not a bad idea. I will check the few camera stores around here that

are still in business.

 

Peter, are you speaking of the shinny plastic version (I think the first one)?

 

Everyone, thanks for the info, it's great. ANy other thoughts are most welcome.

 

B2 (;->

A quick question on thoughts on different version of the 180/2.8 ED IF lens.

 

I am not a AF sort of guy having just upgraded to a F2AS (from an FTn). I had

a 300/4.5 ED/IF and loved the speed at which I could focus her and the

sharpness. I'd like to move from an older 180/2.8 lens to a ED/IF lens. To

do this, I think I need to go to an AF lens.

 

From my research there seems to be two major versions. An early one which was

very plastic and the current one.

 

Any thoughts from uses these?

 

My goal is to carry a 105 and a 180 and a 2x converter to complement my S2

with a 25/50 combo.

 

Thanks.

 

B2 (;->

bingham.b@comcast.net

Errol,

 

I have a fellow out in CA who I send all of my extra equipment to. He is a special ed teacher who uses photography to show kids from low (often no) income families that there is a way out of poverty. He goes by the name Baba, crazy old guy who seems to get the job done.

 

He gives the top three students each year their cameras as a going away gift. Some cameras get trashed by accidents, never on purpose.

 

Many of his students have gotten jobs running machines at one hour photo places, a few have become photographers, most have seen that they can make something of themselves.

 

I�m about to send out a few Nikkormats and some lenses that I have purchased for him. I am in Chicago and would be happy to either put you in touch with him, give you my address and I will add your stuff and name to my shipment or perhaps even purchase them from you to give to him (don�t have a lot of extra money these days, but I can dig up something).

 

Baba�s Kids are a great home for older cameras.

 

Let me know if I can help or put you in touch with Baba.

 

Thanks.

 

B2 (;->

Another less expensive option would be to put a rubberband on the lens to keep it from collapsing completely. A large black o-ring would work too.

 

I'm not sure if it is the light baffels or the extra shutter.

 

Best answer is to check the cameraquest web sight or join the CV discussion group and post a question. Hundreds of years of experience with cameras there, tons of answers.

 

B2 (;->

Started SLR life with a Nikkormat FTn chrome, added another black body which I traded in on a Nikon FTn, sold the finder and got a plain prism, got a FM, sold the FM. Years happened, got an S2 chrome dial and love the feel, just got a fixer-up Apollo FTn (last year(s) of production) and looking for a clean SP user. Still have my first Nikkormat and hope to hand it down to one of my sons to use many years down the road.

 

My dream Nikon is a black SP adapted for motor.

 

B2 (;->

..... The bokeh (excuse me ;-) ....

 

God Bless You

 

B2 (;->

If BF is right (and I think he is), you need to keep in mind that the difference will change as your initial distance from the subject changes. I think it's a percentage of the distance perhaps.

 

Just for example (these are NOT the right numbers)!

 

Lets say that at 10 feet with a 135, you need to go to 11 feet with a 105. But at 20 feet it might be 22, and at 5, it might be 5 1/2. Just guesses.

 

Perhaps someone out there with a 80-200 sitting around and a few seconds (and a tape measure) could find out for us.

 

Come on, some one has to have that grand old KING of the zooms (I made the mistake of selling the one I had back to my brother-inlaw with the F3 a few years back, UGH!).

 

B2 (;->

I would trust an iPod as much or more than cards. I can not speak to which flash is best, but light is your life, get an extra backup flash. Perhaps via ebay and get both looked at. I have an extra flash deep in the bottom of my bag or out in the car when ever I shoot weddings. While the FE2 is your black-hole (everything's dead) back up, get a backup for your main camera. B2

I want to know what happend to the 75mm f2?

The issue is you want a new product line to get people to by new, to try, without taking out a second and third mortgage to get a camera and a asph lens. Minox could have become a fine entry level system for M and R lenses. You need cash flow to keep a company alive. While Uber-High-End marketing is a fine place, you can not forget your primary market, photographers. Collectors are getting older and older and few are joining the ranks to replace them.

 

Building 4/3, Nikon and Canon mount lenses would cost little in R&D money and would generate positive cash and great PR. Leica lenses are unique, special and I would bet, the apple of many photographers eye. They could buy a lens, try it and perhaps become converts.

 

So they buy other bodies, get sell them our lenses. Find our niche and own it.

 

B2 (;->

I think that Andrew's question and lots of the answers here point out that people want Leica-Camera to survive so that 30 years from now, if we are very luck, our children can get one and it will be as good as the ones we have (new).

 

I would bet that if Leica had opened a factory in China 20 years ago and looked for a five year ramp up (no pressure on delivering profits), it would be a very different playing field today. There is no magic to manufacturing to the level of Leica. It takes time, education and motivation of your workers. You might need to fire a few who do not learn to follow the model, but not everyone can build a Leica.

 

They could have done it, but did not want to.

 

What Leica should be doing now is building R lenses in 4/3, Canon and Nikon mounts for use on digitials. IMHO, dump the R bodies as collectors specials. Close down the R body production lines and focus on the Digital M and making digital lenses that kick some butt.

 

B2 (;->

CameraQuest has them and he ships things quick. Tom A I'm sure has them, but I have not bought anything from him directly. I have seen some soft shutter releases on the web from overseas (Pac Rim area) with a Red L (Leica script-ish), don't remember where.

 

I'd say do a google search if you want. I just did and this is what I got:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Soft-Shutter-Release-Button-for-Leica-Silver_W0QQitemZ7555460751QQcategoryZ30055QQcmdZViewItem

 

http://www.nemeng.com/leica/003e.shtml

 

http://www.rapidwinder.com/

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/voigtMSR.htm

 

I have Tom's mini-softy on most of my camera (an AR-9 on my M4-P and AR-1s on my S2 and FTn).

 

You might also try this as a gift (as long as he does not wear glasses).

 

http://www.photovillage.com/html/eyecup_page.html

 

I've bought from PhotoVillage and found them to be straight shooters.

 

Stephen (at CameraQuest) might answer email orders on the weekend, so it may be faster.

 

B2 (;->

Matt,

 

My 2cents is slightly warped, but here goes.

 

Main body is the M6.85, biggest most accurate viewfinder for fast lenses. Use the outside edges of the finder as the 28 and you?ll be close enough. I would leave the .72, IIIf and L at home, pick up a Bessa T. Why, ?cause it takes M mount lenses, just a bit heaver than the L and has a great rangefinder (plus built in meter). Pick up a zoom viewfinder (I prefer Nikon or Tewe) and you are covered if your M6 shuts down. Pick up M adapters for all the lenses. IMHO, your backup camera should be able to use all of your lenses. A T can where a L can?t.

 

Speaking of lenses, I would say leave the 35 and 50 at home, pick up a vc 40/1.4. Upgrade to the vc 28/1.9, speed is very handy when taking people pictures. Put the 15 on the Bessa T, fun combo. Now comes the strange part. Pick up a Nikkor 105/2.5 in LTM for the extra reach. I am growing addicted to mine, it?s a great lens. Use the inside edges of the 90mm frame lines as a 100% frame and it works great.

 

You are now down to 4 lenses, two bodies and I think you have everything covered. You might want to pick up a Winder T for the Bessa. While it is great for faster subjects, the best part of it is that you can hang your Bessa like the M5, from the right side. IMHO, best position for a 2nd camera. The Bessa T is only 65grams heavier than the L and it is built better.

 

The only part of your current setup I would sell for sure is the vc28. Good lens, but slow. I carry a L/25 combo just about everywhere. Just got a vc 25 for my Nikon S2, I love the lens so much. I know, it?s slower than the 28, but it is just a fun lens.

 

I do not own the 28/1.9, but I do have the 15, 40 and 105, all great lenses.

 

Hope this helps.

 

B2

Domenico,

 

What I use as my carry around with me camera is a Bessa L with a 25/4 CV lens. I do this because of several factors. Price, size, features, quality and speed.

 

Both the L and the 25 have no RF coupling, you guess focus. With the DOF of the 25 at f4, not an issue. Price, the L is the best rear lens cap for a LTM lens there is. With a lens at CameraQuest.com, they are $69 USD!! It has a built in meter, very helpfull for lazy folks like me. The 25 comes with a brightline finder, critical IMHO. It handles as fast as a PhD that you wind like an SLR, plenty for me. The lens is VERY GOOD for the price, actually it's a good lens for twice the price. Not as good as a Asph-Cron, but then it costs a LOT less. You can use the lens with an adapter on any M mount camera.

 

I have an old IIIa that I got from my father. I started to use it as a carry camera but did not want anything to happen to it. So I went for a Bessa, T initially, but then added an L to the family.

 

While the L utilizes a lot of plastic, I have seen not major issues over the past two years of use. It will not last as long as a IIIc, but then it costs less.

 

Hope this helps.

 

B2

What focal lengths do you like using most? B2 (;->

Long ago, the Kodak Professional Photo Guide (or anther publication) had several guides to late nigth photography (with respect to exposure).

 

I did some stuff with a 'blad and Tri-X, not pushed and a tripod years ago. I want to say, f5.6 at about 15 seconds sounds like what came out, but that was houses illumated by street lights.

 

I would try to meter the lit windows and walls, placing them in the zones that you think will give you your best contrast. I will try and look for a poop-sheet on the web. I think I have one book marked on my pc (using my work pc now) if I do, I will post it.

 

I remember when I lived in Brooklyn years back going out a few nights to shoot. I walked up to windows and walls and metered them. Then I walked back to where the shot was (didn't have much of a spot meter in those days), lined it up and shot.

 

Lets see what I can find. Sandbags are fun, just remember the cable release.

 

B2 (;->

Knut,

 

Photography is a very unusual form of art (expression) that seems to blend technology, feeling and lots of different tools. I've never used the M7, never wanted to. Very happy with my M4-P and M6, even happier with my Bessa T, Bessa L and of late my Nikon S2.

 

If the camera does not feel right to you, it is not the right tool for you, end of story. I do not think that too many folks here would disagree with that statement. To me, there truly is a different feeling of holding a good M camera, even vs. a Nikon F2 or Canon EF. The M feels like it is an extension of my hand. My other cameras do not feel the same. The T with a trigger winder feels good, the L for a carry everywhere camera is fine, the S2 and I are still getting used to each other (need to try an AR-1 on her yet).

 

You do seem to have the first Lemon colored M7 I have heard of. My guess is it may have been used as a hockey puck before you got her.

 

Do try and take it back to the dealer. The best thing is that M6 bodies (not ttl) are at an all time low in cost and you should be able to get a great one for what you paid, with some left over for a Bessa L and a 15mm CV.

 

B2 (;->

For his whole life, my father was a photographer for Kodak in Rochester NY. One day he came home and told me about a photographer from National Geographic that was at the Park (Kodak Park) one day doing a shoot. He went by to take some shots for the internal newspaper and was surprise to see them burning film like it was flash paper and they were bookies being raided by the cops. His opinion of them dropped that day, a lot.

 

Even when I am shooting fast moving subjects, I still look for ?the shot?, kind of one shot one kill mentality. While I have had cameras with winders and motor drives, I have never trusted the camera to find the right moment, one of the reason I hate most digital PhD cameras (shutter lag). I have a winder for my Ms and rapid-winder clone for my Bessa Ts (actually, one for each), but I rarely do more than advance the film with them.

 

Now when I was learning, I did shoot a lot of film. But the goal was and still is to get a great shot every time I press the shutter release.

 

Sun is out and I need to put a roll through my new (to me) S2. Later.

 

B2 (;->

The Bessa L is truely the best rear-len-cap/film-holder made in the world today. The biggest thing to watch out for is how much sky is in the frame. While the L is no where near a Leica, it is a great way to keep the 15mm out always ready for very little money.

 

Beware, once you start going down the CV lens path, you start getting more and more. First the 15, then you will want a 25, then a 40, thank God they are not expensive.

 

B2 (;->