mart_van_genugten
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Posts posted by mart_van_genugten
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When I got my Drebel i was shocked that the viewfinder was so dark. The kit lens was already too dark for me to focus conveniently so I would not spend a lot of many on a 17-40 f4. I now use a 28mm 1.8 as a standard which is perfect. If I were to get a zoom lens i would definetely choose one with a 2.8 max. aperture.
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Hey that's typical, i know that camera...........I own that camera! Contact me if you are interested and we can talk about the price.
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If you used orange in the foreground, what is that blue reflection on her hair? I don't understand.
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It looks like you've done a really good job but if you want to know what could be improved in my opinion:
<p>-the scan looks soft or is it camera shake?
<p>-the reflection in hiss glasses is a distracting.
<p>-the backlight could be aimed higher to seperate his dark hair from the dark background. I don't really like the highlights in his neck.
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wow! nice thread!
<p>
<p>
<img src="http://home.student.uva.nl/martinus.vangenugten/photonet/lookinat.jpg">
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well, maybe, but ehmm.......show us the pictures!
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Are you sure you need model releases for your purpose? If you want to sell just prints of your photo taken in a public space with somebody on it, as far as I understand it, you don't need a model release. Only if you want to sell the rights to the image (for example for commercial photography) you need a release. It's quite understandable people don't just sign releases when you come up to them and say you just took a picture of them. What you could do is ask their adresses, send them a print of the photo and if they like it they will probably sign the model release and you could also agree to pay them when the image sells.
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In general it looks good but if you want some hints on things that could be improved, they all have to do with the processing of the images:
-make sure aspect ratios are maintained
-less jpeg compression (jpeg compression should never be visible)
-better scanning and processing in photoshop could make the images look a lot sharper and, in general, better.
The images are essential, if you want to profile yourself as a specialist on imaging you should not sacrifice image quality, even if it leads to having large jpegs on your site.
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You have to be careful but there are a lot of honest people on ebay. I have had several problems with items not functioning well or damaged but everything has been solved to my full content, with full or partial refunds being offered to me. Off course there are bad apples but it tells from their feedback.
I don't think anyone was out there to rip you off for 10$. I also never use cheques or money orders. Paypal is so much more reliable.
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I think I am confusing image circle with circle of confusion, i don't know what circle of confusion exactly means but I do understand there is a bigger difference between film sizes than the actual size of the film :) ...
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Winfried, if I understand this correctly a standard lens on a 6x9 camera (probably a 90mm or something) would have the same DOF on a tight cropped portrait as the 50mm for 135 at the same tight cropping? That would also mean that a 6x9 image cropped into a 6x6 is, in terms of DOF, a totally different thing than a true 6x6 negative?
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Thank you for this explanation. I'm also wondering how the DOF of the two formats compare when taken a tight head shot with an 80mm 6x6 at f2.8 and a 50mm 35mm-neg. at f2.8. are they the same as well?
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I tried to do a search but i could not find any threads on this
although there should have been questions about this earlier:
I know the field of view from an 80mm lens on a 6x6 camera compares
to a 50mm lens on 35mm. But how about perspective? It would seem to
me that the perspective is still that of an 80mm lens. So if I take
a tight headshot with an 80mm MF lens I would not have the kind of
distortion that I would have if I used 50mm on 35mm camera. Is this
correct?
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I have a Minolta Auto Meter IV F which has the following problem:
When using the spot meter attachment the meter works just fine, when
using the incident dome, the readings are 4 stops too high. This
seems to be a problem caused by a little pin that is pressed when
the spot attachment is attached and depressed when the dome is
attached. However pressing the pin without any attachment does not
change the reading of the meter. I'm not sure if this is the problem
but i think it has to do with it. I'm wondering if anybody has ever
experienced this problem before and i'm wondering how it was solved?
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Thanks Bill, a very good article. I saw an exhibition of enlarged photos from Winterreise last year, a heartbreaking experience. The book was sold out though and I never found it again.
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"courtney", "jamie", "ken" look good: keep them. The rest of the photos are quite bad in comparison to these, i would not use them.
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Osdorp Posse is a Dutch hip hop/rap act. The poster says. "Wanted: Osdorp Posse" (and the small letters:) "for the illegal posting of this "tering"( = @#$^S@) sticker."
For the rest I don't have a clue what Ernst is on about with this teringphoto :)
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What about wet streets? I think for some people that is a dramatic factor as well. <p>
<img src="http://home.student.uva.nl/martinus.vangenugten/4-34.jpg">
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Some people have described this image as 'dramatic', (in a positive
meaning that is). The longer I think about trying to describe the
factors that cause 'drama' the less i can think of. Maybe someone
can post something they think is dramatic or mention things they
generally consider dramatic in street or people photography. <p>
<img src="http://home.student.uva.nl/martinus.vangenugten/4-32.jpg">
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I am Blind!!!
this is a brilliant shot!!!
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W/NW: Four
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
is that why they call it a....
<br>
<img src="http://home.student.uva.nl/martinus.vangenugten/photonet/4k.jpg">