rui_lourosa

i´starting to develop my own color work, and i was told the

flexicolor kit from kodak are the easier and economical, plus the

more consistent, i will do the work by hand, so i would like to take

of some doubts, first is the starter necessary when the developer and

bleach are used as a one shot, and if i make two liters and replenish

with 35ml for each film in the developer and in the bleach, what is

the amount of starter to use in the beginning of the use of the

chemistry?

Please help, i know that machines do the job but here in portugal the

good work is terribly expensive.

somethings were said that are not true, first the pinkish color of the negative after washing is not a sign of improper fixing, this dye has nothing to do with the silver halide removal, alkaline and rapid fixers are not oposites, an alkaline fixer can be rapid, it´s "rapidness" is related with the presence of the ammonium thiosulfate, better, with the ammonium ion in the fixer solution, this way so can a sodium thiosulfate based fixer be a rapid fixer, just add the ammonium ion to the solution, this means, Mark, you are not absolutely telling us what is true, so when you don´t know...

 

about all the chemistry, if you don´t care, use monobath, i belive tetenal still makes one, that way you get the negs that you deserve,

my procedure- development, 5 water changes, alkaline rapid fixer, 10-20 min wash, sistan, dry

hardener makes the emulsion less prone to accept water, besides all the conveniences of hardening, this makes washing more difficult, and if this is not taken in account, increasing the washing time, the permanece may become afected

i only use hardener with liquid emulsion, made with soft kitchen gelatin, specially on glass

try vodka, stock solution, redish tones on your nose

i bought some pyro on a drug store, it´s made in barcelona and in the

sealed pack of 200 gr says that is 99,8 pure is it enough for

photographic use?

shadow detail in zone I, great combo.

THE METABORATE OF THE PMK SOL B WONT SOLVE UNTIL THE SOLUTION IS

CLEAR, I BOUGHT MY KIT FROM ARTCRAFT AND USED DESTILLED WATER.

IS THE REMAINING SEDIMENT OF METABORATE AFFECT THE ACTIVITY?

hello, i want to buy a good 16x20 4 blade easel because i had many

troubles with bad ones and i saved some money and i don´t know wich

one to buy

there are a few options:

 

KAISER

SAUNDERS LPL

SAUNDERS LPL V-TRACK

BESELER

BEARD

 

wich one is the best regardless the price HELP

THANKS

 

i know this is not the place to make this kind of question

(equipment) but maybe this way i get more opinions, thanks

does anyone have formulas and times to make slides from b/w regular

film, i saw one once that was based on Rodinal with potassium

thyocianate, quantities???????

 

Thanks

hello

what i´m asking is if anyone could tell me how can i distinguish

sodium sulfite anidrous and cristal or heptahydrate

 

and

 

potassium carbonate anydrous or monohydrate

 

is there a way to test the chemicals, are they visually different,

because i bought some from a company that does not specifies,

before i had a friend that made developers for me but he is gone and

now i have to make them my self, and i don´t know the appearence or

the weight per volume, of these two important chemicals, please help

i had one blowed, looked like an atomic bomb

 

toys !!!!!!!!! dah

Pota, Modified Pota (Delaghi), Burton 195, Windish

 

all these and some more will give good results with techpan

but technidol is readly avaiable in a photo shop

also try tetenal mirasol, the only one with fungicide and bactericide agents,

just non organic hardeners need acidic enviornment to work, like potassium and chromium alum, organic ones like formaldheide or glutaraldehide don´t, and the way of working isn´t the same, beside an all alkaline processing does not affect the hardener that come with the emulsion, more, alkali fixer is removed with much more ease and faster, just test with hypo test, and more, the acid that could stay in the emulsion with a acid fixer does not contribute to archival mode, more, with alkaline fixer there isn´t the risk of overfixing thereby keeping all the important reduced silver in the emulsion

 

but let´s be practical, the only place that sells made alkaline fixer is photoformulary and isn´t cheap, by order, and if i want to order i have to pay and wait a lot because i´m in europe, to make some tf-3 or tf-2, scales, chemistry, too much trouble,

water stop baths, etc

 

well it´s way far easier to buy hypam

gallic acid is not the same stuff that pyrogallol

the rest is the same

i use it in the variable sepia tone, together with thiourea, to clean pipes, and to make tea for some people (kidding)

i usually make my fixer from bulk chemicals and i usually make it alkaline, faster fixing, faster washing, acid free processing, archival mode reached easely, and since i can´t find the stable 60% solution of ammonium thio here in portugal, i usually make my rapid fixers from the sodium salt plus ammonium chloride to form ammonium thiosulfate in the solution, it´s reasonably fast, with clearing times at 20º of 30 sec when fresh, and sodium thiosulfate is very cheap, 1 kg costing around 1,00� getting cheaper if you buy in large quantities, i usually use 200gr of sodium thiosulfate for each liter of working solution, and usually fix 10 35mm/120/8x10" so, with 1kg i usually fix 50 films. For 0,20� of sodium thiosulfate, plus 0,015 � of sodium sulfite (also costs around 1,00� here in portugal) plus 0,04� of ammonium chloride, plus 0,03 of sodium carbonate or 0,10� of sodium metaborate oct and i get a inexpensive liter of working solution fixer (0,28 or 0,35� (metaborate version)) around 28 or 35 american cents, i never had shelf life problems as i usually make 2 liters every 2 weeks,

 

i allways fix films for 3 times or more the clearing time

washing is usually 10-15 min but coul be less (5 min for archival standards) followed by sistan

 

one liter of hypam costs 8,00� to make 5 liters

i make 10 liters with 2,80 or 3,50�

 

even if the hypam doubles the fixing capabilities it´s cheaper to make my own, and i always save on washing water

Can i substitute sodium bisulfite given in the original formula in

PMK and Pirocat-hd for sodium metabisulfite???????????????????????

can i substitute weight by weight the sodium ascorbate given in the

original formula of MYTOL by ascorbic acid or not, if so, do i have

to mix the ascorbic acid with sodium bicarbonate to make the sodium

ascorbate befor i put it into solution, what quantities ??????????????

i have one 80mm and one 150mm exactly of the same brand they came along when i bought my durst laborator 1000, good lenses, far better than some on the market today, who´s the lens maker that puts 19 blades on a diafragm today?

does the powder loses fixing capabilities with

time/temperature/humidity????

please do not use Hypo eliminator it has uncontroled effects on the film suspension, i use hca if i use acid fixer and wash for at least 20-30 min, but for film i regulary use alkali fixer wich does not need the hca and has even short washing times, but i still wash for 20-30 min. i once read that a small amount of thiosulfate is better than none, because it has some protective properties against oxidizing agents on the atmosfere, still i wash at least 3 times more than recomended and use sistan or selenium toner

the ilford method is usefull but only for rapid fixers (their hypam), fresh, small dilutions and short fixing times,

the ilford method should work better if an alkali fixer is used since 2 or 3 min are advised washing times

i read that it was koh but in what amount?

how many grams can i dissolve in one liter of water, of ammonium

thiosulfate??

how can i produce pyrogallol or pyrogallic acid from gallic

acid???????????