gregory_nicholson

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/315330-lg.jpg">

This is an example of my best picture of the equipment I want to sell.

 

"http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id.jpg=315330"

Hello,

I've been an amateur photographer for quite a while now. My photos

are mainly of the landscape and macro type. I've always been

pleased, until recently. I'm trying my hand at studio photography or

more specifically, taking pictures of camera equipment to sell on

ebay.

 

The equipment I'm using is as follows; Canon F-1N, Speedlite 155A,

FD 50 f/3.5 macro, Agfa Optima prestige 100, Canoscan FS4000 and

Photoshop CS. At first I blamed PS so I tried auto levels, contrast

and color and of course USM. Then compared that to what my manual

skills would do. Not a great amount of difference. The ebay sellers

photos I see from a Sony FD Mavica are considerably better.

 

The problem I encounter is getting the images as I see them in

person. Many times the front of a camera and the side will not be

the same color black, one might be dark blue, one black. Also, when

I stop down to f/11 or f/16 and use a one second shutter speed the

image is not tack sharp. When I use a flash at f/5.6 or f/8 often

the colors are faded and the image is lacking detail. On faded

color, if I increase the saturation in PS the photo looks too fake

and over-PS'd. I'm also having trouble showing the finest scratches

on the finish of my equipment. Should I use a flash or not?

 

As a matter of pride I want my pictures as good as the best on ebay.

If I can get this right, I will also learn something that I can take

with me outdoors. Is a mid-priced digital the best option? Thanks in

advance for any responses.

I have this lens, changed it 90 degrees, used it for a while and found I liked the way Canon delivered it better. There was one occasion it was better. BTW, I may not be positive what he's talking about here, Peter White is one of the few posters (along with Gerry Siegel Honolulu, David Goldfarb, Alan Swartz, Larry M, Duane K and a few others) I found several of their responses good enough to cut and save. Thanks PW for helping me learn.

I used to own an AL-1. I bought it merely for its novelty. The problem with this type of battery door is the user needs to pull back on the clasp before closing, pushing the door shut will break it. If I remember correctly Tempe Camera in Tempe Arizona sells the AL-1 battery door for $20 or so. They had these made in Korea and are not Canon originals. Much better than tape though.

James M,

 

I know what you mean, when I was in College I couldn't afford a full tank of gas on my weekly budget. It's tough to get something decent for a true bargain. Ebay will be your best bet. Sometimes lenses get over looked or there are too many of them listed at one time and the lesser rated items go for half price. Also, seek out lenses that are listed in the wrong category or incorrectly label lenses. This technique got me a Canon FD mount Tokina AT-X 80-200 F/2.8 SD zoom for $24.99. I still need to buy the $20 tripod collar but what a deal!

 

Anyway, you can always compensate a slow lens with faster film. Most popular new cameras come packaged with a 35-80 F3.5 -5.6 zoom. Therefore, your local grocery store is likely stocked with Kodak or Fuji 200, 400 and 800 speed print or positive film and not Kodachrome 64. Camera shops will always have ISO 3200 black and white film.

 

You asked if the lenses 70-210 and 75-200 are compact. Well, not compared to a FDn 100 F2.8, this lens is about 20% longer than a 50 F1.4. Another very compact lens, in your price range, is the 35-70 F3.5-4.5, it's about the same size.

 

Consider being inconspicuous. I don't do 'street' but I'd imagine folks who saw you waving around a 70-210 would likely know they're about to be photographed. This is one reason why ultra-wides are so popular for street. You don't have to point your camera directly at your subject. But then again I'm sure there are those who use the huge EOS 70-200 F2.8 L IS USM on a booster equipped EOS 3 or 1v. Whatever you're comfortable with, if you want small the 100 F2.8 is a great choice.

 

On a budget you'll need to consider filter compatibility. If you want to use the proper Canon lens hood you'll need to use a filter with that lens's filter size, no step-up rings. If you're currently using a 28 and a 50 then you'll likely want a longer lens with a 52mm filter thread. The 75-200 is such a lens. Also, the FDn 100 F2.8, FDn 135 F2.8 and FDn 200 F4 have 52mm threads. Use Hoya, Tiffen, Canon or Nikon glass filters and stay away from the Cokin plastic filters for best results. I know they're convenient with adapters to fit any lens but they'll take an otherwise good prime lens and give you consumer zoom results.

 

FD lenses that are easily bought, on ebay of course, for $60 include; 70-210, 75-200, 135 F3.5, 100 F2.8, 28 f2.8 and 50 F1.4. Occasionally a 24 F2.8, Vivitar 70-210 Series One, 135 F2.8, 200 F4 or 100-300 will go that low too. Also, higher priced lenses with scratched or marked front elements will go for under $60. A 35-105 F3.5 recently sold for $58 with a scratched front element and this lens included the correct Canon hood and caps. This lens was offered by one of ebay best sellers too, "shutterblade". My 35-105 F3.5 has several fine scratches or wipe marks and it's still an incredibly sharp lens with excellent color rendition. Don't be afraid to go that route for the time being.

 

Fell free to ask again.

Hey Mark,

Setting the delay timer, locking-up the mirror, exposure lock and aperture stop down all linked to the delay switch (four functions by unlocking and moving one lever). On the EF you only need to press the lock out button, set the delay timer (counter clockwise on the upper lever) and push the shutter release. On the F-1 or F-1n you center the lower lever, go right with the upper lever, move the lower lever to M and finally move the upper lever all the way to the left. Plus, the EF will automatically reset everything back to normal at the end of the exposure. Of course any of these function can be performed individually if desired.

Hi Terry,

I re-purchased an EF this year. I went to the hated-site and had to buy three to find one I liked. I should have just gone to a reputable on-line camera shop and been done with it. The one I settled on is in excellent plus condition and had a three year old CLA, it was $100 plus shipping. The EF's with finish wear or small dents have very little resale value, the super clean samples are nicer to use and own.

 

I use it exclusively with a chrome-nose breech-lock 35 f/2 and the CAT system 133D flash. I like the camera and flash automation very much and use it for hand-held people portraits and urban landscapes, some B&W. Its exposure is very accurate and this lens is razor sharp.

 

As you know, the truly unique feature of the EF is the delay switch. When activated, pressing the shutter release automatically locks the exposure, raises the mirror and stops the lens down. The EF is probably the only Canon camera that does this. Another curious feature is the film must be advanced in one full stroke, the winding lever does not ratchet like my other Canon cameras. I like winding with two half-strokes but I guess it really doesn't matter.

 

When buying the old breech-lock lenses ask the seller about the focusing ring effort. Too often, regardless of condition, they have become somewhat stiff. Plus, don't be terribly picky about finish loss on the aperture ring. The only way they don't wear at the edges is to always use the lens on the automatic setting. The nicest thing about Canon's manual focus line is the availability of high performance lenses at all focal lengths. Your lens speed needs will determine which to choose for your working classic camera.

It was an 85 f/1.2L w/hood & caps for $220. I hesitated thinking the lens needed a $200 repair and the lens sold the next day. If it could have been fungus like you say then I have no regret.

Hey Larry,

Can fungus ever look like a lightning bolt? Every one says spider web but I passed on a ripping deal because I was unsure about these fine little hairs on the center element. They looked more like a tree branch with a few branchlings. Not the symetrical spider web.

Hi Tim, This summer I was in my local camera shop and as usual they were all trying to talk me into converting to a 10D with EOS lenses. I mentioned reading about how a lot of new EOS lenses were being delivered with internal dust. We took a couple off the shelf and sure enough, dust in a brand new lens. Then a local wedding photographer came in and joined the conversation. He told us he found the same with a new 90 f/2 APO Leica portrait lens he bought. About 20 visible particles of dust in a new $2300 lens.

 

Also, I recently purchased a lower rated bargain 300 f/4 for its tripod mount. This lens, when viewed with a flashlight, is horrible with dust and even what looks like lint. Yet, when I compared it side by side with my 300 f/4L the performance was almost identical. The only time the f/4L was clearly better was with the 2x-A tele-converter. Otherwise its resolution is 95% of the f/4L lens. For what it's worth, I bought a mint-out-of-box FDn 50 f/1.4 and there is only about 10 little dust particles. It tests better than my mint FD 50 f/1.4 SSC. Just thought I'd share that with you.

Alan's right, I just put a "D" screen in my A-1. With no instructions, I first tried to put the matte down like an F-1 screen. It wouldn't go, matte up and it fit right in and focuses perfectly.

I imagine (perhaps not?) the hood for the 24mm is just as rare?

 

I wouldn't say rare but since they were accessory hoods not sold with the lens they're not as common as the lens.

 

I think $170 is way too high for the 24 f/2.8, hood or not. You can find that lens, without hood, for under $90 in ex+ or better at least once a week. The trick to ebay is patients, incorrectly listed items and items with really crumby under exposed pictures. (but a seller that quickly answers e-mails and gives a complete description) If I wanted the hood at a decent price then I would search "BW-52" and bid $21 for each auction that I liked. Eventually, say in less than six months, you'll get an e-mail stating you're the winner. (I did this and got an even rarer BW-72 for $26) Until then the $5 Sigma hood is more than adequate for a lens that doesn't have a major issue with flare. (I'm speaking for the 24 f/2.8 or 24 f/2)

 

Then again if you come across a BS-52 for cheap you can cut it to the shape of the BW-52 hood providing you can hold it securely and cut it on a band saw. I think a hack saw would be too inaccurate and you might end up wasting an hour of your time and the hood.

I think the BW-52A is a rare hood and could possibly be equal in worth as the 28 f/2.8 lens. I would suggest you find a "Sigma-perfect hood" for thier 24 f/2.8 lens. It's a clip-on tulip design hood with 52mm filter threads. I've used one before I found the BW-52C I needed. I see those Sigma hoods in every camera store junk box I have visited. Or there are two on ebay for less than five bucks. search auction numbers; 3844833870 or 3844611022

Well what do you know, I just checked my most used camera, the mechanical F-1, no stripe. Then I checked my Pellix, FT, EF, F-1N and A-1 and they all have this similar stripe. In the early book "An Introduction to the Canon F-1" is a statement "ghost images are completely corrected" for this camera. I never knew what that meant. This must be what they're talking about. The camera may have some type of light baffle in the prism. I guess the T90 must be okay, anyway, thanks for your comments.

Hi Folks,

I'm looking at a T90 in a local camera shop. Everything is "mint-

minus" except there are two images in the viewfinder.

 

The second image is basically the center of the original image,

about 1/8th that height and the same width. It is getting projected

as a rectangular stripe under the normal viewfinder scene. I'm

puzzled, should I avoid this camera or is it possible it's a simple

mirror adjustment like with Aaron James focusing problems on his

T90? Thanks in advance.

Will it still meter properly? Don't know. It may, but the newer finders on the older bodies are not tall enough to cover the back, above the focusing screen and below the viewfinder so there may be some light infiltration. I can be certain the hot shoe will not get a signal from the camera. Also, the newer finder's retaining pins will not secure the finder and it could just fall off while you're carrying it. The two are not interchangeable, however in a studio situation (perhaps securely taped on) you might get by with it as you can still see the meter readout. I wouldn't ignore this auction though, F-1N's come up now and then without finders.

Hi Aaron,

"Matter in macro shots" When everything is magnified, the results will include any quality issues. If it doesn't look crisp, sharp and in focus through the viewfinder the shot doesn't have a chance.

 

Teleconverters for close-ups can be tricky. If you set the 100 f/2 at infinity focus, add a 2x multiplier, you now have a 200 f/4 lens. To make it focus to life size with extension you'll need 200mm. Light loss will be four stops, two from the converter and two from extension. However, if you take the 100mm lens and set it up for half life-size with extension, 50mm, then add the multiplier you are multiplying the magnification not the focal length. Light loss is three stops, one from extension and two from the converter. If life size is the only criteria then a 100mm lens will need 100mm of extension with a light loss of two stops. The only benefit I see of using the teleconverter is to gain working distance by increasing the focal length.

 

Personally, I think you'd be better off with either the Bellows FL or the Auto Bellows. Both are selling for less than a 2x-B and you can use any ordinary prime lens from 35-300mm.

 

Also, remember Canon's warning "don't stack converters or extension tubes" because "the added leverage puts too much strain on the aperture linkage of the camera" Your instance (lens-tube-converter-camera) is what the "M" extension tubes are for because with no link the camera is not in danger. You can find the M tubes in kit form and you'll get a 5, 10 and two 20mm tubes so you can vary the magnification without relying on lens focusing, that should be done with a focusing rail.

 

I have used the 200 f/4 macro-M20 tube-1.4x-A combo giving excellent results with a higher magnification at a lens-to-subject distance equal to the lens on its own. However I would hesitate to do this with a normal 200 f/4 because with the added physical length stability becomes an issue. Handholding can only be accomplished with a flash. Your T90/300TL should handle this with little issue. That said, I would still use the Bellows with your 100 f/2 and use the light difference to get my film speed as low as possible, ISO 50 being the prefered number. HTH

Sean,

 

Whoa! That's the worst camera repair story I've ever heard. Sorry for your misfortune. On a personal note; I had contacted Steve about a month ago regarding a CLA on my EF. He seamed, through e-mails, to be a reputable guy, or at least articulate and friendly anyway. There was that lag time between contacting him and me actually sending the camera. In that time a thread surfaced on this forum about a buyer that received a different lens (FDn bayonet versus FD breech lock) than the one he stated. That's not the thing that bothered me, it was his response to the buyer "you get what you saw and that lens is worth more money" Oh really? So much for a customer service department and providing the buyer at least one option. (I don't really know, maybe he did) Sure it's a little thing but an ebay auction is a contract and since I deal with contracts daily that's all I needed to decline on having him repair my EF. Sounded iffy then and sounds like a total disaster now. I certainly hope everything turns around in your favor, I'm sure his story would be different, but then what could you have done differently? You sent him the camera and the payment.....right? then, in my mind, you've held up your end. Good luck

Rather than buying another camera have you thought about getting your current camera serviced and then spend ten bucks on some semi-gloss black modeling paint. Brush the paint on and use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the brush marks. You can even use 'white-out' on the lettering with decent results. The baseplate can be removed, sprayed and placed in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes to harden. This certainly is not a way to repair paint loss but it can make a rather ugly camera look great from three feet away. Note that any un-baked paint will wear rather quickly and you'll have to touch it up often but if you want is a great working camera that looks good then this is an option.

 

Buying cameras on ebay is often a dice role. Lenses can be checked quickly but cameras?....I wouldn't...I'd stick to keh/adorama/B&H for those. BTW I've bought five really good looking cameras from ebay in the last year. All were advertised as working well. All needed a CLA and light seals, two worked 100%, the others were just parts cameras. Hope you have better luck.

Hello Hansley,

 

Well, there are a number of ways at looking at this. I recently bought an EF camera that was listed as needing only caps and an on/off switch. However the camera was pure junk, nothing worked and the mirror was unattached. This was also from a person that does camera repairs. It took me three long e-mails to explain my position and reinforce my argument to get my lousy $45 back. Your circumstances are nowhere near what I just went through.

 

Anyway, from a economic stand point I think you are fine. The same camera/lens would have sold for $245 at keh.com. Without the recent CLA. That was a good deal no matter which FD 50 f/1.4 lens.

 

The only thing to consider is the F/1.4 SSC has 55mm filter threads and if the rest of your FD lens are 52mm then there would be cause or issue if you rely on filters often.

 

Regarding the value of an FDn versus FD 50 f/1.4, I think that's kind of a bubbamiensa, there's no difference. Although, the BS-55 lens hood is likely to be significantly less than the BS-52 lens hood, so you will save eventually.

 

Regarding the paint loss on the aperture ring; the only way to keep these lenses from showing wear is to not use them. It is very difficult to get paint to adhere to sharp corners....period. Moderate use will cause this, it doesn't take rough handling to get paint loss.

 

Also, I'm not a big fan of partial refunds. If you do ask for a refund on the lens I'd imagine you'd send him the lens and he'd send you $20, so you gain $15 but he may or may not accept bids or CLA's from you again. (don't know? although he does have the right to) In my opinion you either return the camera/lens for a full refund (and give up the good deal) or chaulk it up to experience, and remember next time to ask all your questions before you bid. It seems to me you saw an FD lens in the picture you should have asked "your auction states a NEW FD lens but I see an FD lens, which is it?" If you're still not happy ask for a lens cap, hot shoe cover, camera strap or something he might have laying around he won't miss but will make you happy. My $0.02.

 

Pre-bid e-mails are also a good time to figure out if the seller is a good communicator, did they use the equipment and how long it takes to get a reply may be an indication on how fast they ship.

 

BTW, after checking around, Steve Wright, has a very good reputation and for this reason I'm sending him the second EF I just bought for a CLA.

Well said Michael, you put my thoughts into words perfectly.

Is there a way to put the T90 screen in upside-down? I did this on an A-1 and got similar results. The fresnel goes toward the mirror. Most likely this isn't the problem but I thought I'd offer the suggestion. Good luck Aaron.

For some reason I tested this function using a new battery. I found that after leaving the shutter open for 45 minutes there was no difference in the battery check. After an hour and a half the battery indicator went to the slow flash stage. This was at 70 degrees so colder would be sooner.

Hi Rob,

 

Hopefully I picked the right one to respond to. Anyway, I'm no repairperson but I'd have to doubt Canon made two different contacts on the camera, one for the vertical release and one for the horizontal release. Something is wrong if you can't fire the shutter using the cameras' release button, it should work whether the FN drive is on/off or whatever shooting mode. I'd look at all contacts first, rub them hard with a pencil eraser if nothing else. I also don't think I'd want to be limited to hi-speed use only, I think there's a possibility of camera shake if you're thinking about carefully controlling the shutter release all the time. I guess I really don't have any advice but I will say good luck and if you find a repair person that has overhauled the FN drive please post who.