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s2vach

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Posts posted by s2vach

  1. Microcomputers are being used for a variety of purposes, but research about their instructional effectiveness lags behind adoption rates for the technology. Further, there is a limited research base about the effects of microcomputers in vocational agriculture on learning in the affective, cognitive, and psychomotor domains. The research base is even more shallow when effects of testing students by computer technology are explored.
  2. what roger said is correct... the shutter has to stay open for longer than just an instance of time... it has to be open for the whole time the flash is going off. but flash durations can vary from like 1/500th sec. to like 100,000 sec. depending on the models. this is where the slight leeway comes in. test it out with a manual flash with variable output and your dslr. with my old d60, at a sutterspeed of 1/320th i was fine at 1/16th power with a sunpack 544(giving a really short flash duration). at full power i started seeing the black edge creeping in at this speed though.
  3. no no no.... a flash, when fired, will create an electric charge across the hotshoe. this is called the flash's trigger voltage. its not a property of the camera, its a property of the flash. the hazard is that some cameras can only tolerate certain trigger voltages. eos cameras were designed to handle a maximum of 6V. some flashes have higher trigger voltages than that and can damage the camera. they will still fire on the camera, and they might not fry the camera immediately, but they could screw up the electronics of the camera after a while.
  4. yeah, there's a site somewhere online that has a bunch of trigger voltages for different flashes listed on it... i'm too lazy to google it tho. you can measure it yourself with a volt meter too.... its actually really easy. if you dont have access to a voltmeter (its not a complex device) maybe you can go to radioshack or somewhere and use one. you just put one electrode on the center lead of the hotshoe and one on the side and fire the flash at full power in manual mode. that'll give you the max trigger voltage.
  5. oh, and you dont have to worry about the flash to subject distance in auto mode, so long as your subject isn't like a mile away... the flash will, theoretically, automatically cut off the light it outputs once the proper exposure is reached. just make sure you aperture is set to correspond with whatever color mode your flash is set to. and make sure your shutter speed is at or below your x-sync.
  6. the flash is not calibrated to the flash sync at all. the shutter speed will not affect the flash exposure at all so long as you remain under the camera's x-sync. i think that the 199A flash has a higher trigger voltage than 6v though, as a lot of old flashes do, so i wouldnt use it on eos cameras... which can be damaged by high trigger voltages. the auto mode's different settings, which are denoted by various colors, correspond to different aperture values you should set the lens to while using the flash... each color denotes a particular f-stop to use for proper exposure. f-stop is what controls flash exposure since the flashes light output duration is way shorter than the shutter speed you are using.
  7. i have owned both lenses, and i can say that the 85/1.8 is absolutely amazing and the 17/4 is pretty good. the 17 does show SIGNIFICANT vignetting when used wide open. shooting at f5.6 reduces most of this, but i found that f8 gives the best quality. 550$ sounds a bit steep maybe... depending on the condition. if they are IMMACULATE then i guess that is a good price. if you arent a collecter and rather a simple user, then i'd recommend getting bargain grade ones through keh and save some dough... or search ebay. when i switched tio eos i sold my 17/4 for like 300$ about a yr ago and it was in pristine conditon... like new. i also sold my 85/1.8 for like a hundred bucks or so... cant remember exactly, but point being... i think you can get a better deal
  8. hahaha. i wasnt tryin to come across offensively dude... or tell you what to do. honest. sorry ;-)... i dont care how you shoot at all. still, it just seems like a waste of money and equipment overkill to use canon speedlights for what you're doin with flashes. i was just posting my opinion on your situation for others reading this forum to consider, and i stand by what i said. but if you already own multiple speedlights, are willing to shell out more dough for the connections to hook them to PW's, and like using them... thats fine with me! ha. nice flick btw
  9. also... you can get like 4 viv 285's or 2 or 3 sunpak 544's for the price of one 550ex. i dunno... it just doesnt make sense to own multiple canon speedlights if you are using them manually with radio slaves. especially if they dont even have pc terminals... my 2 cents
  10. why even use multiple canon speedlights... or any other dedicated style flash when using multiple flashes with radio slaves? its more economical and just as effective to use some powerfull manual flash with varipower adjustments.... sunpak 555/544, viv 285hv, sunpak 383, mets 45ct, etc. the vivitar 285hv's even have a 1/1000th sec flash duration at full power... greeat for action stopping.<div>009FWQ-19302184.jpg.02c0ef9523f815764dd357cd380641f8.jpg</div>
  11. i have a D60. its the best bargain for a dslr right now i think. the diff's between it and a 10D are minimal and it has a WAY better user interface and feature specs than the 300d... trust me, ive used all 3 cams. if you dont need really fast/low light auto focus and shoot at iso 100 mostly, then the D60 is hard to beat in the 6MP dslr class. you can get a used D60 for about 700 bucks in good shape. my 2cents<div>0099Y3-19173784.jpg.31179ec6bca41bd5952ba5c7bb4b2596.jpg</div>
  12. hmm... fired at full power? it depends on the power source. rechargable, high amperage NIMH AA's will give the shortest recycle times and will be more economical in the long run if you use the flash a lot. do you have old alkaline AA's in it right now? those could take forever...
  13. you cant have an FD lens modified to mount on an EOS body... wont work right, trust me. if you really want a full frame fisheye for cheap, then search for a zenitar. they're a little over a hundred bucks and supposedly pretty good. all manual tho. if you can afford 7 G's for a 1Ds though, why not just pay 500 bucks or so for a used canon EF fish? the canon fish is nice. i have one... great lens if you like fisheyes.<div>008uTv-18861084.jpg.08b598a0c0f53c61b4ea00930946d969.jpg</div>
  14. trigger voltage has absolutely nothing to do with the AA batteries it takes as a power source. flashes have capacitors inside. some older flashes that run off of 4 AA's have trigger voltages WAY over 6V... more like 50V or more. using a flash with a trigger voltage greater than 6V on an EOS cam might not fry your camera completely and right away, although if it were really high i guess it could, but apparently i've heard that it will shorten the life of the cameras shutter and mess with the circuitry among other things. not a wise idea to risk that on an expensive camera. i know the old vivitar 285's had really high voltages, so stay away from them. the newer vivitar 285HV's have voltages of around 11. I have three of them that i use for slaves and i measured them with a voltmeter once and they all varied between 9 and 11V. dont know about the sunpak 383 tho.
  15. those screw on adapters suck. period. if you want a cheap fisheye then get a zenitar. look on ebay, or you can buy from kiev camera dealer. you can get one for like a little over a hundred bucks and they are available in different mounts. the quality is supposedly pretty good. obviously not as good as one that your camera manufacturer makes, but WAY WAY WAY better than a screw on adapter.
  16. you might wanna use fill flash when taking pics of people with a bright distant background... just opening up the lens to expose the subject correctly is going to lead to blowing out the background. the exposure range in a lot of scenes is just too wide for any film to capture everything.
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