adzy

I have the older 200/2.8 L Mk I, which I unfortunately managed to

drop lens face down on the hard concrete floor at an LA expo.

 

Now the estimate for repair is 293$, apparently the USM needs to be

replaced. What do you think I should do- buy a used 200/2.8 (Mk I or

Mk II), or get this repaired. What are the used prices like nowadays ?

 

I loved this lens, and it did give me a couple of really fine images

before this, and though it was'nt my usual walk around lens, it did

come handy shooting birds and flowers.

 

Suggestions please.

 

Azi

I would stay clear of the Sigma- tho the value/price can be matched, you don't what future canon body it will have an issue with.

Chewck out Puppyface's review at http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/toolbox4.htm

 

I have the lens too and I use it on my 10d. Its a great lens- sharp, no flare issues. Just use the hyperfocal for landscapes, and everything is sharp sharp.

 

However, if you are looking for a wide angle, you might consider the 20/2.8, which is cheaper than this one, (apparently) less sharp than this, and is cupposed to a bit flare prone- but the wider angle is worth it.

Is that is centigrade or fahrenheit ?

 

Sorry couldnt resist !

Cynthia,

1. I have read that its much better to do all operations on the camera, rather than thru the computer.

2. Also, you will find it easier to just format the card, instead of having to delete images and make space for new images, especially if you are in a hurry.

3. Also, I have seen problems between Canon cameras when a card is taken unformatted to another camera and had pictures taken (I have seen this mostly on the microdrives tho).

 

Basically, its a better idea to just format it on the camera. But make sure u have a backup. Good luck!

Thanks for all the answers. Looks like its going to be another few hundreds for the calibration.

 

man this is one expensive hobby! Just got myself an 1280, so I need to do the calibration sometime

Embre, I do not agree with you. We do not make prints for colorimeters, we do it for us to look at, thru our eyes. Calibration tools, are an aid, which make this process easier, but they are not the ultimate test.

 

Aside: Incidentally, the Video Essentials DVD does a get job with TVs (No, I am not assoiated with the company)- those of you who are Home theatre afficionados, shoudl try it out.

The TV monitor and the computer monitor are similar in many respects.

SO, can I use a TV calibration DVD to calibrate my computer monitor ?

 

I have the "Video Essentials" DVD for calibrating TVs. It does a

great job of calibration of TVs- adjusts 5 parameters- brightness,

calibration, sharpness, color and tint. However it does this to

conform to the NTSC standard. Comes with many test signals too-

example the standard TV coloured circle patterns

 

II pop this in my computer DVD and calibrate my monitor using this

DVD will it it be colour correct and calibrated. Or does the NTSC

standard does not work with monitors ?

I have seen this argument before- 300D has same sensor as the 10D so why go for the 10D etc?

 

But tell me this, in the context of the film bodies, both the entry level rebel as well as the 1v can use the same film to take photos, why go for the more expensive body then ?

 

Fact is, ergonomics matters. In the film context, people go for their price-to-value favoured model. Similarly with the 10D vs 300D. Is the value worth the price differential - thats a question that is subjective.

You might want to try out fredmiranda.com. Check out the buy and sell forum. The prices around 750-850 there for a 10D

Hi, firstly sorry about the fact that this thread will not be

relevent to most photo.netters.

 

I am currently in Bangalore, India and looking to sell my canon eos

a2. I was wondering if anybody knew of a local store which deals in

second hand canon equipment, since most locals seem to prefer Nikon.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Azi

Puppy face u rock!!!

A related question here. Somehow it has always seemed to me that the view that I get from the viewfinder is always sharper than what ends up in my photos at f/1.8. ANybody else has had this experience ?

Hi, I would like the same answer in the context of the D60 please.

Surya, dont confuse the two - 1. focus and 2. depth of field. WHn u use the manula focus you are basicaly changing the focal length, or basically u are bringing the point of focus nearer or further away. The depth of field on the other hand, depends on a number of factors like 1. aperture 2. focal length and 3. subject to distance.

 

U say that u are already using a wide aperture ( 3.8 i think is the widest on your lens), so thats ok. next what focal length are u using ? at 28mm more things are going to be in focus than at 105mm. Also, the closer u move to the focus object, the less DOF.

 

Also, how are u checking for blur? is the default viewfinder view ? is it the DOP preview mode by stepping down the lens, or is the actual photo ? If its the first, then u are doing it wrong, if its teh second- it can be a bit tricky, making things out in the dim viewfinder. The third ofcourse is the best test.

 

If you are doing all the things above, and still not getting the blur then something is wrong. ANd BTW, no reason to keep the lens on Manula Focus, switch to Auto- u should be ok.

If you are unsure about the aperture, why not use the dep mode. Choose point 1, click, choose point 2 click and then when you half-depress the shutter, check the aperture reading that it comes up with. That should give you a pretty good idea of what kind of aperture to use in a similar situation later.

 

 

Check out your manual, it should have more details on this.

Try keh.com. As many others on the board tell you- they are dependable, honest and pretty conservative on their lens ratings. I have bought a 200/2.8L from them- it was listed in Bargain condition- I have no complaints- on Ebay it would possibly have been sold as 'Ex' condition.

 

However theie inventory is a bit low, and u need to check regularly, if you have something specific in mind. I am looking for a 2x TC for example, havent found one affordable in the last one month.

This question had puzzled me for a long time too, till I found an answer in one of ansel Adams books. Consider that the dark to light difference is 4 stops. So, if we say the value for the dark side is 1 unit, the lighter side is 16 (4 stops). If now the flash fires an output of 3 units, the darker side becomes- 4 units, the lighter side is 19 units- the darker side just increased by 2 stops, whereas the lighter side by just 0.06 stops, and the light difference is now 2.1 stops.

 

The key thing to remember here is that the flash output affects the darker areas more then the highlights, and thus decreases the difference in light values.

Hi, i had a question regarding the usage of the 200/2.8L

 

1. I have often used the wide angle lenses at f/11 - f/22. But have u

ever had reason to use a telephoto at the minimum aperture side ? Can

you give an example ?

 

2. How do you find the performance of the 200 at the othe end of the

aperture ?

 

Thanks,

Azi

Good answer Brett. I too had this problem with my A2, and I was wondering if something had gone wrong. Relief !!!

Ok it worked. Thanks Puppy Face. I didnt realise the bottom know was for turning the tripod screw and tightening it. :)

Hi, I have a canon a2, and finally got a used vg-10 from keh today.

Question is how do I attach the bloody thing ?

 

I took off the round slotted thing which houses the electrical conn.,

but after that what ? I cant get it fixed. It seems to be getting

stuck at the tripod socket. How do I screw it in.

 

Thanks.

 

Azi

Are u into macro photography at all ? You could then consider the 100/2.8 macro too. Its a bit slow (max aperture wise), but sharp.

 

Incidentally, I too have the 24/2.8 and the 50/1.8, and when I was looking for a telephoto- I faced the same choices as u do now. I chose the 100, primarily because of the macro, and the reviews. ...and yes the lens has proved great so far.

I'll answer the Qs I can. No, it wont show the time on the LCD display. Yes, power is used up to keep the shutter open. How long do u plan to keep to keep the shutter open ? I once made a 30 minute exposure without any detectable drain on the battery.

Donald, I mailed you at the AOL address, but didnt get a response back. So, here goes again.

Giving away an L lens- that a biggie. I would definitely love an L.

I am a student of photography, you can see some of my photos here at photo.net.

I promise to take good care of your equip, and hopefully do justice to it too photographically.

 

Thanks, Azi