john y.k. lee

I will be attending a conference in Denver in October 18-25. Does

anyone know what the foliage will be like at that time? Will I have

missed the peak foliage season? Also, does anybody know any

photography tour guides that work in the region and during that

time? After the conference, I could reserve two or three days to

photograph, how should I maximize my opportunities and what should I

photograph? I don't have any lenses longer than 80-200/2.8 with 1.4x

teleconverter, but I would love to photograph scenery or large

animals.

 

P.S. I spent two weeks skiing in Vail last February and March. The

photography at that time was confined to skiing type pictures.

I'm thinking of getting the Tenba P415 myself for exactly the same reason. I have a similar setup including a Dell Latitude, F100, 80-200, and 24-85 travel lens.

 

The Tenba has the advantage of being expandable and collapsible. hence, I can collapse the bag when I need to take the briefcase style bag with the laptop to work. In fact, the main use of the bag will be for my travelling. I can bring my laptop for work and my camera for fun.

 

The bag is about $120 at adorama.com. The computer insert is another $30 and the photo insert is another $30.

Does anybody know if the digital SLR bodies will work with the Nikon

105 Micro with a ring flash. I suspect that the digital bodies

require the new SB80DX flash and currently there is no ring flash that

will work with the digital SLRs. Can anybody corroborate my suspicion?

I purchased the 24-85 AF-S G lens and just got back from a trip to the Grand Canyon. I can say that the barrel distortion at the wide end is quite severe. I lost a lot of good pictures because of distorted horizons. Of course, I have never used this zoom before as I recently switched from a Contax system with fixed prime Zeiss lenses. Hence, this barrel distortion is quite annoying to me. I'm sure that I will learn to compensate as the distortion is minimal or gone at 28mm and definitely by 35mm. I'm thinking that I might have to buy wide angle prime lenses, since my budget won't permit me to get the 17-35/2.8

I am an amateur who switched from manual focus equipment to a Nikon

F100 with autofocus lenses (currently using the 24-85 AFG-S). When I

shoot landscapes on a tripod, the lack of a depth of field marker on

the zoom lens can be limiting. I was wonering whether anybody else

thinks there should be a method for the camera to calculate the

distance for the hyperfocal distance at a given aperture and given

focal length. I know that the Nikon F100 uses all this information

in its matrix metering mode (eg. the D chip provides distance, the

aperture is a known variable, and the camera knows the focal length

on the zoom lens since it is able to transmit this information to my

SB-25). Hence, it should be an easy calculation to provide the exact

distance for maximum depth of field at any setting. I think this

function would be invaluable for landscape photographers and even

photojournalists. What do you think?

I appreciate everyone's prompt reply. As the sleep-deprived Californian mentioned, the F100 does not have a release-priority option when in single servo AF mode. Hence, it seems to me that the only option is to shoot in Continuos Servo mode. I will try that.

 

I have looked at Kai Pearson's F100 custom chart. It is extremely helpful but it does not address my question. He does seem to imply, however, that single servo AF mode is focus priority and that continous servo AF mode is release priority. Hence, as I concluded above I will shoot in continous servo AF mode.

I recently purchased a Nikon F100 and use it primarily with

24-85/3.5-4.5 G lens. I also occasionally attach an SB-25 flash to

the hotshoe.

 

Generally, I shoot in single servo mode with single area selected []

without the + sign in the middle. Now, if I choose the left AF sensor

and autofocus by pressing the AF-ON button and then recompose such

that the left AF sensor is no longer on the subject that I want in

focus, the camera refuses to fire. I assume that this is because the

computer wants the subject in the left AF sensor to be in focus before

firing. How can I avoid this problem without switching to manual mode

(which I've done a few times)

 

One solution I've found is to focus with the AF-ON button and to shut

off the autofocus on the shutter release. Then, when I focus with the

AF-ON button, I keep that button pressed and then recompose the

picture and then press the shutter release with my index finger at the

same time my thumb is still on the AF-ON button. Does this make sense?

I purchased a Nikon SB-25 in "bargain" condition and a Contax T2 in "bargain" condition. They work well and have been great. I agree with all of the above posts. Their price is not the lowest but their quality is great.

I am interested in nature photography and have both of the above

lenses. One has a 77mm thread and the other has a 67mm thread. I

have a Cokin P filter holder that I use a Singh-Ray graduated neutral

density filter. I am wondering what kind of circular polarizer to buy

for these two lenses. Obviously, I don't want to buy both a 67mm and

a 77mm circular polarizer.

 

Does anybody have any advice with respect to the following options:

 

1. Cokin P Singh-Ray circular polarizer. I could use this with both

lenses. However, will there be vignetting with the 24-85 at the 24mm

setting? Will I have to cut off the extra filter holders as has been

described by many others?

 

2. Buy a thin 77mm circular polarizer and use a 67-77mm step up ring.

This sounds like it will surely vignette.

 

Unfortunately, none of the local stores in Pittsburgh have these two

options for me to just look through the viewfinder and see if there is

vignetting.

 

Any advice anybody might have would be very helpful.

I just bought my Contax T2 three weeks ago. I've shot four rolls of film through it. One roll was Fuji Sensia 100. Two rolls were Tri-X 400. The latest roll was Fuji Superia 400. I have only developed two of these rolls -- Sensia and Superia. The lab is still working on the B&W.

 

Let me first qualify by saying that I am a beginner. Nevertheless, I shot the roll of Sensia in indoor and outdoor conditions, mostly in program mode with and without flash. I did not experience any vignetting at all. However, as the previous poster mentioned, I did not take many shots in aperture priority, so I can't tell whether that would have made a difference such as at f4.

 

I'm definitely happy with this camera. I had to learn how to use the autofocus on the system, since you have absolutely no idea what the camera is locking on. I had to train myself to prefocus, compose, prefocus again, and then recompose and shoot.

 

Anyway, good luck.

Why is there a $70 price difference between the black and chrome FM3A

new at BH Photo Video? Why is the black version more expensive than

the chrome version? Personally, the chrome looks classier.

I am currently considering a phototour during this New Year from Dec.

28, 2002 to Jan 2, 2002. Does anybody have any experience with Gordon

& Cathy from Adventure Photography?

 

www.advenphoto.com

 

Although I could visit the area myself and photograph the sites using

books and maps, I only have a few days and don't mind paying for the

convenience of a guide and a structured program. In

addition, I'm a beginner photographer and would

appreciate the help they would offer. Nevertheless, I'd like to know

if anybody has worked with these two before.

 

Thanks

Which camera is the best successor for someone who wants to continue

to use manual focus carl zeiss lenses? I currently use the 167MT

which I love, except for the things that everybody has mentioned

(off-center tripod socket, electronic craziness with low batteries).

I am thinking of getting a second body. Rather than get another 167MT

which is discontinued, what about a new Aria versus a used RTSIII.

 

The advantages of the Aria would be matrix metering. Otherwise the

RTSIII seems to be the professional workhorse. I'm not a

professional, but it seems the build of the RTS III is awesome.

 

In terms of price, a new Aria would be around $600. A used RTSIII

would be around $1000.

The 3126 head is composed of two heavy L-shaped pieces of metal. The bottom L attaches to the bogen tripod with the other limb of the L rising vertically. The next L is bent and makes an acute (85 degree angle). One limb of this L attaches to the other vertical limb of the first L, and is attached by a screw/know that allows for one degree of freedom. The other limb of this second L is the floor on which the camera sits. The limbs themselves are all straight and hence the camera sits flush. However, this second L makes an acute angle rather than a 90degree right angle.

 

I hope this makes sense.

 

I then tried to remove the second L, but I was afraid to break anything. The head is useable, but just annoying at times, since I have to do my adjustments with the leg.

I just got a used 3011 bogen tripod and a bent 3126 video head for my

SLR system. Obviously, I would like to get a new tripod head such as

a moderately priced ballhead. However, in the interim period I'd like

to use the video head. The only way I can seem to get the mount level

is to extend the legs on one side of the tripod. This requires a fair

amount of work. Is it possible to bend the 3126 back to its original

position. I am quite impressed by the sturdy metal feel of the 3126.

I don't think this will be easy to do!

 

I am an amateur and am obviously looking for cheaper but workable

solutions. Any thoughts?