john y.k. lee

I just got my replacement lens today, and it autofocuses perfectly. I thought there was something wrong with me, and it turned out to be the lens. I'm quite relieved. Thanks for the help.

Thank you everybody for the quick answer. I should have known it was the lens, but since it is the first thousand dollar lens I've ever used, I assumed it was me.

 

I tried the lens on my F100, and it didn't work. I tried my 18-70 kit lens and my 24-85 lens on the D200 and they autofocus smoothly. I'm quite bummed by this, especially since I've been sitting on the lens for a while without the time to put it through its paces until this holiday season.

 

I hope I'm still in the warranty year period.

I bought a new 17-55/2.8 several months ago and have been using it with my D200.

However, I am having some serious focus problems.

 

As a reference, I used the D200 with the 18-70 kit lens as well as with a

80-200/2.8 without any autofocus problems.

 

With the new 17-55, however, I have focus hunting problems. When I press AF-ON

(which is how I have the autofocus set to go), the lens never seems to get the

right focus. It will settle on one spot which will be completely out of focus,

and when I press the AF-ON again, it settles on another spot which is also out

of focus, and then when I press it again, it settles on a different spot which

may or may not be in focus. It moves very fast since it is an AF-S lens, but it

never hits the right spot. I've given up on the AF, and now I focus manually

every time. In fact, I've ordered the Katz-Eye to help with this.

 

It is definitely not a problem with the D200, since it works fine with the other

lenses. I've tried switching all the buttons and menu settings, but this does

not really help the main problem which is the autofocus.

 

Should I return the lens to Nikon? Am I doing something wrong?

I just bought the Nikon 105/2.8 VR macro with the R1C1 flash setup for use with my D200 for the same issues.

 

Look at this website, because this is what the dentists are using.

 

http://photomed.net/d200.htm

 

The 105 with the 1.5x crop factor definitely puts you far away from the patient, and thus you won't be too close.

I had the same problem initially with my F100. However, after several rolls, it became easier and easier. I don't know what I did or changed, though.

If you didn't have the flashes, could you still achieve a photo like that? I'm just trying to learn how to take better portraits. This one is excellent!

I'm interested in head/shoulder portrait shots of people. I want the

digital equivalent of the old Polaroid pictures. The quality of the

camera/lens/printer are not as important as ease of use, reliability,

and trouble free, simple usage.

 

does anybody have any ideas?

 

Canon with their dye-sub 4x6 printer?

Thanks very much for the prompt answers. Now that you mention the width of the entire IR spectrum, this makes sense. I appreciate the quick answers.

So, I have a new house that I am trying to insulate. I have laid

down many, many rolls of insulation in the attic, and I am getting it

winterized with some new windows and weatherstripping.

 

I also have a Nikon Coolpix 4500 which has been converted to an

infrared camera, by removing the filter from the CCD chip. Hence, it

can take beautiful b/w images in the infrared spectrum.

 

Does anybody know if I can use this camera to detect thermal leaks in

the house? For example, on a cold day, can I detect thermal loss

through the window and joints of the house using this setup?

 

Obviously, I should just go ahead and try it. Unfortunately, I won't

be able to do that for about three weeks, but I'm curious to know if

anybody has tried this?

I am an amateur and am not a wedding photographer. However, I am an

avid photographer and am trying to understand how to use flash at

formal events.

 

I have an Nikon F100 (film camera) with an SB-25 on shoe flash. I also

always use TTL, because I have absolutely no idea how to calculate

exposures with flash and guide numbers and things.

 

Whenever, I shoot flash, I try to bounce of the ceiling. I also use

the white card which comes on the SB-25 in order to bounce some light

directly forward into the face, just so that not all of the light is

coming from the diffused light from above. This seems to work well.

 

However, when I am confronted with a situation such as when I want to

use a telephoto (usually my 105/2.5) and capture a scene in a dimly

lit wedding hall, how do I light this subject? If I point my flash

straight ahead, it is harsh. There is no ceiling to bounce from. I

don't have the sophistication like the pros to set up all kind of

wired flashes from slave flashes and other things. Would the

Stofen-Omnibounce help in a situation like this?

 

I know that the Omnibounce is really designed for the same indoor

situation where I currently use the white card. It is supposed to

bounce the flash on more walls, however. I know that you are supposed

to keep the flash at about 70 degrees. I am more interested, however,

in the telephoto situation.

 

Thank you in advance for your help.

 

John Lee

Alfred

 

I read about this on dpreview.com

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=14478084

 

Basically, anti-blur is nothing but a software bias towards using a faster shutter speed eg. 1/100 second. Hence, there is less blur, only because you have a faster shutter speed. THe Fuji camera can do this, because it has a great CCD which produces less noise at higher ISO than other comparable cameras. See Fuji F10 reviews.

 

This is quite different from the complex, hardware, gyroscope-like solutions of image stabilizers.

Has anybody been able to test this camera? There are only limited

reviews available on the internet, and only limited personal reviews

on the other websites.

 

I'm in the market for a compact p&s digital. I'm looking at the

Fuji F10 and the Ricoh Caplio Gx8.

 

Can anybody help?

That is beautiful! I have never seen anything like that in person. I need to change venues and move out to the west.

I really appreciate how many people commented so quickly regarding this picture. I also found the background quite unpleasing, but I wanted to learn about bokeh. What is good and bad bokeh?

 

This seemed to be one of the worst bokeh I have seen from my cameras. I am accustomed to nice solid circles instead of this pentagon. Also, the blur appeared harsh.

 

I didn't realize that the same camera with wide open and stopped down apertures created different bokeh. I was pretty sure that this was shot wide open, but I can't remember.

 

As for quitting my day job, you can be sure that I enjoy photography as a hobby only.

 

Thanks everybody.

I shot this picture either with my Contax T2 or my Canonet GL17.

Unfortunately, the eyes are not in focus, but I thought the bokeh

was interesting. There is the star pattern in the background.

Would you describe this as pleasing or unpleasing, etc?<div></div>

Wow, Mike Ging.

 

Thank you for keeping us up to date. It is amazing what nature and humans can do.

 

Unfortunately, I have been swamped at work and only yesterday reviewed the slides. Nevertheless, thanks for keeping this link alive.

I only received one roll of negatives back. I'm still waiting for the slides, but here is one shot in the worst light -- high noon!<div></div>

Thank you everybody for the information. I ultimately chose to go to Lost Dutchman because of practical considerations -- I had less than a full day and arrived at 12:30pm. If I had tried to drive to Picacho, I would have arrived at 1:30-2:00pm.

 

I hiked the Crosscut trail and found the clumps of Mexican golden poppies and the lupines. It was beautiful. I hiked up to the Basin and kept wandering until the golden hour. Then I took some classic shots and kept bumping into other photographers. It was definitely worth the fun.

 

I've sent my slides to Fuji processing and hope to scan them in for everybody's perusal.

 

If I had more time I would have liked to see South Mountain Park as well. In any case, thank you everybody.

Quick Question.

 

I only have one Saturday after a conference - March 12th to go out

hike and photograph. I have never been to this area, but I've heard

such good things about the flowers at this time of year. I have

narrowed down my choice to either Picacho State Park and/or Lost

Dutchman State Park with the Superstition Mountains in the

background.

 

I want to photograph landscapes while hiking. I will have rented a

car. What would you do? Would you try to do both or just focus on

one?

 

Thanks in advance

Ah ha! I think I found the problem. I think it is a faulty cartridge. I recently changed the HP 57 cartridge, and this has caused all the color problems. I just printed a black and white and there was no problem!

 

I purchased the HP57 from www.walgreens.com for a lower price. Perhaps it was a cheap refill?

I have spent a year printing with the HP7960. However, recently, I

am experiencing some serious problems with color. Nothing matches.

I never profiled my screen, because the colors out of the printer

were close enough to the monitor, and I'm not a professional.

 

Recently, however, NOTHING matches. It is disgusting. I thought it

was Microsoft XP SP2, and thus I removed it. I uninstalled the

software and drivers and reinstalled them. This has not helped.

What can I do? I just want to get back to my prior situation.

I finally got a back from HP India support.

 

Here it is:

 

With reference to your e-mail regarding XP service pack 2.

 

First of all, I sincerely apologize for delayed response.

 

Yes you are absolutely right; there are some issues with the service pack 2. The

Printer software has compatibility issue with SP2.

 

So kindly remove the SP2 and install SP1 to resolve the issue, follow these

steps:

Please help me!

 

I have been printing for one year using Adobe Photoshop 7 and

HP7960. I downloaded the updated driver and have made beautiful

prints to match my screen. The color has been good and the b/w has

been great.

 

Recently, I cannot get the colors to match at all. The most recent

change I made to the computer is to download and install Windows XP

service pack 2. Has anybody else seen this problem.

 

I have played with all the options - ICM management on/off, Adobe

RGB. This is driving me nuts. I just want my plain system back.

This is a silly problem but a genuine headache for me. I print with

a HP7960 whose largest print size is 8.5 x 11. I have many prints

which are full frame digital scans from 35mm (Nikon Coolscan V). I

cannot crop them to 4:5 ratio, and hence need them to stay 2:3

ratio.

 

I like to print nice pictures for friends and frame them and give

these pictures to them as gifts. However, I am trying to find a

simple efficient working solution. For my 8x10 prints, I simply

print them on the 8.5x11 paper, use a precut matte with 8x10 opening

for an 11x14 frame and then frame it. However, for the full frame

aspect ratio, I am having a difficult time. Should I buy custom

mats with 6.66667 x 10inch opening for an 11x14 frame?

 

obviously, I am looking for a solution with a premade solution. For

example, 11x14 frames are easy to buy for good price. Precut mats

with 8x10 opening is easy to buy. Everything else is not easy.

 

Has anybody else run into a working, efficient solution?

I emailed HP support and they did not offer to replace the two defective cartridges. I may email them back and demand a replacement.