darryn_richter
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Posts posted by darryn_richter
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I have a 2.8F TLR. I used a cable release for the first time a
little while back, and I noted in the bottom right corner of the
prints (B&W), a very light area, as if there was something shiny in
the bottom corner. The cabel release is a generic brand with a rigid
chrome coupleing of applox 1 inch (sorry) long. The rest is flexible
caple which was bent away from the direction of the camera. I assume
this is the culprit. The pics were taken at 2.8. My question is: is
there a length at which the the cable release coupling does not
impinge on the picture, and secondly, is there a dedicated cable
release made for this TLR?
I also have a problem with the self timer. It stops, I give it a
nudge, it satrts and then stops again up against that leeetle bit of
metal: I lift it up a little and nudge a bit more, it starts again
and takes a pic of my arm (close up). Any quick solutions short of a
CLA??
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Lex. I hadn't considered that. It was taken at an indoor swimming pool with flood lights, so your explanation is probably spot on. There are other frames which were not taken under those conditions so I'll print some and have a closer look. Thankyou.
Darryn Richter
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Woops, I posted this to the wrong list, now I'm is the right area!
I have just processed a roll of Fuji 1600. I made a print and
noticed that the lips of the person were rendered very dark, as if a
blue filter had been used. Is this a known attribute of the film, or
just something unique to my film developer paper combo?? I quite
like the look. It was developed in Microphen stock and printed on
Ilford MGIV RC. All responses welcome.
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I have two Konica Hexar AF cameras, both with the original flash
(HX14). One flash has never worked, except that it does go through
the normal high pitched charging sound. The flash ready lamp never
lights up. I tested the flash on both camaera bodies, and confirmed
that it will not fire. However, I recently attached it to a Pentax M
series body (out of interest more than anything) and the flash
discharged. No film in the camera, however I assume if fully
discharged. Does any one out there have any idea why the the Hexar
bodies (both of which are operating normally and work happily with
the "working" flash) are unable to discharge this flash, whereas the
Pentax SLR can??
Any advice would be appreciated.
Darryn
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I too have an MZ5n and process my own B&W. When rewinding, watch the counter count down from 36 or 24 or whatever. Have your finger ready on the back cover release mechanism of the camera body. One second after you see zero "0" on the counter, open the back cover. You'll find the film pretty much how where it was when you put it in. Saves licking film which doesn't taste too good. Works every time, and after a few rolls you'll fine tune your method a little. The worst you can do is open it a little early and lose a frame or 2. Now, once you done this make sure you identify the film as being exposed, especially if you currently identify unexposed film by the leader being left out.
Darryn Richter
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I made a small mistake in my original question, it was a Hansa, not a Hama lens. Apologies.
I purchsed the EL Nikkor 80/5.6 for AU$60 (about 35USD) I can see visible improvement in sharpness and detail. I actually reprinted a few frames with the new lens so I could make a direct comparison. The printing sessions were only two days apart, using same chemicals, paper and filter. Overall the image was sharper, had more contrast, and seemed to be a "punchier" photograph.
90% of my prints are 5 x 7. 10% are 10 x 8
I actually enjoyed using the enlarger at a greater height than usual, it seems to give me more room to move. Thanks to all who contributed.
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I have the opportunity to replace my current emlarger lens (a 50mm
HAMA) with a Nikkor 80/5.6. It appears to be in very good condition.
From some of the previous threads, the Nikkor range appear to be of
good quality. What is reasonable amount to pay for a second hand
example in good condition??
A second question - I have an Durst Graduate enlarger. I recently
noticed a line appearing on my prints, at first thinking it was the
film, however upon inspection of the condenser, I found a scratch on
the underside surface.
Being plastic, i decided to use some cutting wax to "cut" the scratch
out. This has alleviated the problem, at least to the naked eye.
However is it possible to have this component replaced. I don't seem
to be able to find a supplier here in Australia for Durst. The
enlarger was bought second hand.
Appreciate any help in either of the above questions.
Composition of two people - square format
in Portraits & Fashion
Posted
I plan to take sereis of portraits of a brother and sister (late
forties) as a gift to thier father. I have Rollei TLR and plan for
B&W, low key, plain dark background. Thinking of head and shoulders
at this stage.
Any suggestions on composition. I want to convey the sense they are
good friends (which they are) but obiously not intimate. Any
suggestions will be helpful.