Jump to content

darryn_richter

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by darryn_richter

  1. I plan to take sereis of portraits of a brother and sister (late

    forties) as a gift to thier father. I have Rollei TLR and plan for

    B&W, low key, plain dark background. Thinking of head and shoulders

    at this stage.

     

    Any suggestions on composition. I want to convey the sense they are

    good friends (which they are) but obiously not intimate. Any

    suggestions will be helpful.

  2. I have a 2.8F TLR. I used a cable release for the first time a

    little while back, and I noted in the bottom right corner of the

    prints (B&W), a very light area, as if there was something shiny in

    the bottom corner. The cabel release is a generic brand with a rigid

    chrome coupleing of applox 1 inch (sorry) long. The rest is flexible

    caple which was bent away from the direction of the camera. I assume

    this is the culprit. The pics were taken at 2.8. My question is: is

    there a length at which the the cable release coupling does not

    impinge on the picture, and secondly, is there a dedicated cable

    release made for this TLR?

     

    I also have a problem with the self timer. It stops, I give it a

    nudge, it satrts and then stops again up against that leeetle bit of

    metal: I lift it up a little and nudge a bit more, it starts again

    and takes a pic of my arm (close up). Any quick solutions short of a

    CLA??

     

    Thanks in advance.

  3. Woops, I posted this to the wrong list, now I'm is the right area!

     

    I have just processed a roll of Fuji 1600. I made a print and

    noticed that the lips of the person were rendered very dark, as if a

    blue filter had been used. Is this a known attribute of the film, or

    just something unique to my film developer paper combo?? I quite

    like the look. It was developed in Microphen stock and printed on

    Ilford MGIV RC. All responses welcome.

  4. I have two Konica Hexar AF cameras, both with the original flash

    (HX14). One flash has never worked, except that it does go through

    the normal high pitched charging sound. The flash ready lamp never

    lights up. I tested the flash on both camaera bodies, and confirmed

    that it will not fire. However, I recently attached it to a Pentax M

    series body (out of interest more than anything) and the flash

    discharged. No film in the camera, however I assume if fully

    discharged. Does any one out there have any idea why the the Hexar

    bodies (both of which are operating normally and work happily with

    the "working" flash) are unable to discharge this flash, whereas the

    Pentax SLR can??

     

    Any advice would be appreciated.

     

    Darryn

  5. I too have an MZ5n and process my own B&W. When rewinding, watch the counter count down from 36 or 24 or whatever. Have your finger ready on the back cover release mechanism of the camera body. One second after you see zero "0" on the counter, open the back cover. You'll find the film pretty much how where it was when you put it in. Saves licking film which doesn't taste too good. Works every time, and after a few rolls you'll fine tune your method a little. The worst you can do is open it a little early and lose a frame or 2. Now, once you done this make sure you identify the film as being exposed, especially if you currently identify unexposed film by the leader being left out.

     

    Darryn Richter

  6. I made a small mistake in my original question, it was a Hansa, not a Hama lens. Apologies.

     

    I purchsed the EL Nikkor 80/5.6 for AU$60 (about 35USD) I can see visible improvement in sharpness and detail. I actually reprinted a few frames with the new lens so I could make a direct comparison. The printing sessions were only two days apart, using same chemicals, paper and filter. Overall the image was sharper, had more contrast, and seemed to be a "punchier" photograph.

     

    90% of my prints are 5 x 7. 10% are 10 x 8

     

    I actually enjoyed using the enlarger at a greater height than usual, it seems to give me more room to move. Thanks to all who contributed.

  7. I have the opportunity to replace my current emlarger lens (a 50mm

    HAMA) with a Nikkor 80/5.6. It appears to be in very good condition.

    From some of the previous threads, the Nikkor range appear to be of

    good quality. What is reasonable amount to pay for a second hand

    example in good condition??

     

    A second question - I have an Durst Graduate enlarger. I recently

    noticed a line appearing on my prints, at first thinking it was the

    film, however upon inspection of the condenser, I found a scratch on

    the underside surface.

     

    Being plastic, i decided to use some cutting wax to "cut" the scratch

    out. This has alleviated the problem, at least to the naked eye.

    However is it possible to have this component replaced. I don't seem

    to be able to find a supplier here in Australia for Durst. The

    enlarger was bought second hand.

     

    Appreciate any help in either of the above questions.

×
×
  • Create New...