wolfgang__

I give 12 cm leader and tail + 13mm for each exp. As I use a very

short tail to put the film in the daylight tank I have 1 or 2 extra

exposures per strip.

Wolfgang

And later, if the hobbie really gets you, you can buy (or better,

make) a film slitter, so you'll have an incredible variety of

emulsions for a very low price (under U$ 1,00 a roll sometimes).

There is another right angle finder wich fits to all models. It does

not cap over the camera end but only clips under and over the camera

behind the viewer. So, it's smaller than the other models, and having

its lateral position manually adjusted it fits all Minoxes.

In fact, the f5.6 lens of the EC/ECX takes the same amout of light in

1/500 sec (maximum speed) as the f3.5 lens takes in 1/1280 sec, so

there is no problem with photographing in sunlight with ASA 100 film,

even without a filter.

I scan my Minox negatives with a Polaroid SprintScan 35. I made a

black mask with a piece of developed film in wich I cut 8 mm windows,

so that no light passes over and under the negs. The scanning part

must be done twice for each film strip because some frames fall

behind the spacers if the carrier, so the film must be displaced a

few milimetres to show the frames hidden in the first pass.

I set the scanner at 2700 dpi (wish I had a SprintScan 4000), wich

gives perfect images for screen view.

I made a slitter using Ron Pedelty's cutting block design (see new

slitter above) but using an aluminium rail as guide for pulling the

film straight. Fuji Superia/Reala, Kodak Gold, Fomapan, Ilford FP4

and Kodak T-Max where easily split. Fuji Super HR showed chippings

(seems like the film base is very harder). I change the blades after

2 or 3 36 exp rolls.

I've made a slitter and split my own film. If there is another

minoxer in Brazil needing films, contact me.

Martin,

Your f/3 rule is really interresting, but how does it change in my

case, where the eye level is 1,9 m? Any difference?

May I correct your affirmation, George?

Even Tessina shows the emulsion side towards the lens (better,

towards the mirror), it could not be the other way since the film is

not transparent enough before developing and fixing. Tessina films

are reversed during printing, showing the emulsion towards the

condenser instead of to the objective.

I do what the leaflet of the EC flash says: For Minox B use 1/50,

it's working OK. Maybe there is some individual variation between

cameras. My photographs using flash are coming out with too sharp

shadows, I'll try some paper or kerchief to soften the light.

It's easy to know if I'm in my lab. My empty Minox B wrights 98 g, a

cassete with 36 exp. B&W film ca. 5 g.

Ten years ago I camped in a beatifull place in southern Brazil. The

most impressive feature there is a canyon 700 meters deep, there is a

very difficult track downwards wich I took with three friends.

I had a 35 mm Contaflex, a Zeiss Nettar 6x6, a Canon super8 movie

and... ha ha! a Minox B! The only one I could take in the

neckbreaking track. Martin's answer is right, it makes the difference

between having good pictures and no picture at all.

The first time I saw a Minox was in a german monthly magazine called

Kosmos, it was the october/60 issue. It was an announcement of the

Minox B showing a tourist in some italian city (Venice perhaps).