waspandy

I took the camera apart, found out what kind of cell it was, and tried

to figure out what it did. I did not succeed, but it was clear that it

had nothing to do with the flash. I then contacted a Minox specialist,

that in turn contacted a Minox repair specialist. I do think that it

is strange how little information there is available about older

Minox 35's.

I found the solution. Is has nothing to do with the flash. The ML and

MB both have LED's instead of a needle in the viewfinder. This extra

photocell is used to control the glare (is that the right phrase?) of

these LED's. Just like an electronic alarmclock that lowers the glare

of the numbers at night. It can easily be verified, point the camera

at something while pressing the shutter lightly, then cover and

oncover the photocell and watch the glare of the LED change. When

Minox design, they think about everything!

I found the solution. Is has nothing to do with the flash. The ML and

MB both have LED's instead of a needle in the viewfinder. This extra

photocell is used to control the glare (is that the right phrase?) of

these LED's. Just like an electronic alarmclock that lowers the glare

of the numbers at night. It can easily be verified, point the camera

at something while pressing the shutter lightly, then cover and

oncover the photocell and watch the glare of the LED change. When

Minox design, they think about everything!

Funny, I asked more or less the exact same question. Both the ML and

MB have this extra "port", and it seems to be the only two cameras

that have it. I have a plan to take my MB apart again, find out what

exactly it is, then follow the wires to see what it does. I will let

you know when I do. My guess is that it has something to do with the

flash, and it might help to have a look at the flash used for the

ML/MB. Sadly there are very little information available about these

two cameras.

My Minox MB is functional, but in bad shape. The worst problem is that the lock that keeps the back on is broken. I do not know if the lock can be replaced, or the whole back must be replaced. If anybody have a lock, or complete back, for sale please let me know. Thanks.

I have no user manual for my MB, and can't find any information on the web about the small photocell next to the red LED on this camera. The photocell for the lightmeter is placed on the lens. Does the other one have something to do with the flash? It seems that it only exists on the ML and MB. Hope you can help.

Thank you, Martin. I took the camera apart, cleaned everything, and

reassembled. The camera was very dirty, and I even found sand inside.

But after this cleaning the shutter works again. This camera have

obviously been repaired many times. Some of the screws did not hold

anything, they just turned freely and had to be removed with a magnet.

The camera was very easy to work with, no special tools needed to put

it back together again, and everything very logically designed. What a

nice experience!

I just bought a very used Minox 35 MB today, very cheap. I am going to use this camera to find out if I want a GT-E. But the shutter does not work. I was told that this is because the shutter magnets are dirty, and needs to be cleaned. I do have the tools and knowledge to take the camera apart (and put it back together again), but know very little about cameras. Does anybody here knows the way in to these magnets? Please don't suggest that I send the camera to a professional, as the postage alone would be more than I payed for it.

 

<p>

 

Thanks in advance

I have a very early Minox C with the Complan lens. It does not leave

any identification marks on the negative. Is this a general thing for

Complan C's, or could it be because the camera is early production?

(according to Moses' list among the first 500).

Hi Lance, when I use my B I like to have the light meter needle to be

somewhere in the middle of the field. It makes me feel that the

reading is more accurate, and the needle is easier to match. This may

be correct, or just a silly feeling. This is not easy with low speed

film. Normally with 100 or 400 ASA I just use the ND filter, and I

still have speeds well above the critical 1/30. With 25 ASA you have

to accept the needle position or accept a very low shutter speed. I

do not like to use low speed film in the B. I prefer the C for this.

It can be difficult to use low speed film indoors, there will most of

the time not be enough light for handheld pictures.

Padraig, just beside the threaded hole on the one bracket there should

be a small rectangular hole. This hole fits the small tap on the other

bracket. Put the tap in so that the cable release spring points away

from the first bracket. Now you take the screw and insert it through

the non-threaded hole in the top of the first bracket, and fasten it

in the second bracket. You have to take the screw off again to install

it on a binocular. Most modern binoculars do not have space to attach

the holder, but if you can find an older one there is usually space

above or below the focusing wheel. Happy tele-minoxing.

The binocular attachment consist of the following (when mint in box):

 

<p>

 

The attachment, I have never seen this disassembled. But as Martin Tai

wrote, it is very easy to put together.

 

<p>

 

The holding device for cable release, this is two black brackets held

together with a screw. At the buttom there is a threaded hole for a

tripod. At the top there is a holder for the cable release. Often this

holding device are missing from used attachment kits.

 

<p>

 

Two thin metal blades to adjust the attachment's distance frem the

lens of the binocular. These are often removed from the attachment.

When they are not, they are sitting below the two metal mounting

plates on the attachment clamps. These blades are also often gone.

 

<p>

 

The cable release, I have never seen a used attachment with this.

 

<p>

 

The manual, always missing.

 

<p>

 

I have the manual, and could probably get it scanned if someone have

the space to display it on the net.

Tim, I recently experienced exactly the same problem as you. I have

developed many rolls in the tank, and became a bit confused. After

many tries I was able to recreate the problem. Sometimes when I just

need to develop film I load the tank in my bathroom, on a very white

table with two halogen spots above. Each time I do this I have this

problem with overexposed edges. Somehow the light gets inside the

tank. I have no problems when I load the tank elsewhere.

 

<p>

 

/Anders