al_seyle3

This one's made for you-

 

http://www.icon.co.za/~panfield/

You didn't say what lens and format.

I've been using a Bosscreen with lenses from 300 down to 110

on 4x5 sucessfully with no fresnel. I recently added a 58 and

found the light fall-off to be too great, so I had Bill Maxwell make

a screen/fresnel combo which, while not quite as bright as the

Boss, works well for all lenses.

You don't say what lenses you have, but I have found the combination of a

Maxwell gg and fresnel combo ($225) to work well with lenses from 58 to 300

using the refelx viewer for general camera alignment. You'll still need to remove

the viewer for fine focus with a loupe though.

I'm curious to know your reason(s) for selling the Toho as I am

thinking about getting one for backpacking. My Technikardan 45s

is just too heavy for field work.

Do the newsprint test both with the camera hand-held and on a tripod at a range

of speeds from 0.5 sec. thru say 1/125th. Keep a record. Shoot 2-3 hand-held

so you get a good average. Then inspect the film under magnification comparable

to your desired print size. Comare hand-held frames to tripod frames. Any

directional blurring will indicate camera movement during exposure. Only you can

decide how much is acceptable to you. Let us know how it worked out.

It is ironically prophetic that you mis-typed the word luckup instead of lock-up,

since in the case you describe you will need large amounts of luck!

BTW, how sharp is sharp?

Age is another factor affecting handholding any camera. When I was 20, I could

hand hold at slow speeds that I can now at 62 only dream about--as some of you

will find out all too soon!

Be sure to use a dark red safelight for Ortho films--not yellow.

See...

 

www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/safelight.pdf

Got mine from BadgerGraphic. Superb product-especially the

viewing angle adjustment feature.

Is weight a factor? If so, you should be aware that both of these

are heavy beasts compared to wood fields or Toho. They are,

however, wonderfully made precision instruments.

Don't have experience with the i version but I tried 3 different CF lenses and

found them all to be equally unsharp when compared to my 40, 100, 120 and

180. I know this differs from above posts, but this is from experience. Calls to

Hass NJ support were that the lens was designed for people groups ie, weddings,

not for commercial applications. Sorry, but if I were a wedding photographer I

would still want sharp photos!

Fuji NPZ. 800 speed. 4-layers. Amazingly fine grain. I have used

it for Imacon scans with excellent results converted to b/w.

I once had a CF60 that was unsharp when compared to my 40, 100, 120 and

180CFs so I rented 2 others to compare. They were just as bad. Hass.Tech said

the 60 is intended for groups of people--as though sharpness was not as

important in that situation?! Good luck.

I just finished shooting a site with daylight, mercury vapor and unknown mix

of flourescents with Fuji NPZ 6x9 with excellent results, once scanned and

overall general corrections made in PS. Even tho this is ISO 800, the results

look like 100. Really.

Ok, I'm a curious TK45s owner and not familiar with this macro

arm thing. What is it, what is it used for? Where can I see a photo

of it? A search of B&H was no help. Thanks.

I think it's an old wives tail that mf lenses are better than lf. That

may have been true 30 years ago, but in using my Hasselbad

w/100mm T* against my TK45s with Schneider 180 and making

2400 dpi Imacon scans from EPY film, I find the results from the

each of these lenses to be about the same--given the same

enlargement factor. This is in general everyday use. No test chart

involved. Couple this with the ability to use a 6x9 back and the

resulting sharpness is outstanding.

I also compared Blad 60mm T* with Scneider SA110 and found

the SA far superior. As a side note, the Blad 60 was actually soft

compared to my 40 Distagon T*, 100, 120 & 180. I tried 3

different 60 T* s and all were soft. Hasselblad's response was

that it's intended to be used for groups of people (as if

sharpness wouldn't be too important). Interesting!

The Silvestri fills my needs beautifully. I especially like the tilt for wide

angle work, fitting into the corners of the frame, too. Very well engineered

and well made unit.

Interesting that Kodak would say don't fly with film. Don't they

ship a lot of their film products to stores around the world via air?

Or does it go UPS ground and sit baking in a truck for a week in

the summer? Is air cargo x-rayed as well or would this be a

feasible method - to ship film to your destination for pick-up

when you get there. Ship your cameras to yourself too-well

insured, of course.

Thanks for your comments, Eric. I'm using Xtol 1:1 with good results--

so far, but in view of all the horror stories of sudden failure, I

thought maybe there might be alternatives. Ilfosol-S, Rodinal, DD76,

HC110, Pyro etc??

BTW, enlarger is Durst L1200 w/Colorhead.

I'm getting back to b/w lf after a long hiatus. Film will be primarily TMX Readyloads and possibly Acros QL, although not too impressed with the latter so far. Dev will be via Jobo CPP2 with Expert 3010. Fine art landscapes are the main interest. Any new real-use (with this setup) recos for film developer out there? I don't have time to test every possible combo. Thanks.

FWIW, I recently purchased the 110XL and was told that the Lee

67WA adaptor was necessary to avoid vignetting.

I also have the small Linhof boards. I use the Hasselblad swivel

45-degree cable release adaptors. They allow the cable release

to start the bend sooner to bend the cable around the lens for

storage. When in use, the cable release just swings right out.

The bonus is that the angle makes it swing out to clear the lens

area, thereby allowing for shorter cables.

Gotta be something wrong with the meter, Andy. I just replaced

my battery for the first time--the meter is 4+ years old

(Pentax/ZoneVI digital). BTW it is fantastic.

Does anyone have experience using the Silvestri Tilting Lupe 6x.

Looks like this would help greatly in focusing wide angle. Any

thoughts?