ed b.

Even bromoil requires dichromates in the bleach. There is no way around the use of hazardous chemicals, but there are plenty of folks who have handled them safely for many years.

Gainer's article on Vitamin C Developers is on Unblinking Eye <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/VitC/vitc.html>here</a>. Another useful article with information about adding Vitamin C to Rodinal is <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html>here</a>.

I bought a Schneider Componon 35mm enlarging lens on eBay, which has

a tiny diameter of 25mm. I need to find a retaining ring for this

lens. I believe B&H lists it as "Schneider M25 X 0.5 Retaining Ring

(00) for Enlarging Lenses"--a special order item that costs $29.95,

which is only a few dollars less than I paid for the lens. Anyone

know where I might find one of these rarities for a bit less cash?

Bath A lasts almost indefinitely, but its properties change over time as it absorbs silver (due to the solvent effect of the 100g of sulfite).

I ran some price tests on mixing your own a few years ago (and prices haven't changed much since then). Buying bulk chemicals in reasonable quantities, Pyrocat-HD costs about 15 cents per liter of working solution. PMK comes in at 31 cents. PMK premixed from Photographer's Formulary was 50 cents per liter, and Rodinal at 1:100 was 21 cents.

 

The only advantage of Pyrocat-HD that hasn't been mentioned above is that it can handle low levels of agitation better than PMK, so it is feasible to do stand or (better) semi-stand development.

Films developed in staining developers scan much better than films developed in non-staining developers. Dye films will never have the longevity of silver films.

 

I have a new digital camera, but I worry about the lifetime of the CD-R's I use to store my images--I have some that were burned 4 years ago that are unreadable now.

I searched for Mamiya 7 repairs and found only references to Mamiya

USA. Are they my only option? Do they have a monopoly on parts?

Anyone know how long it takes?

Sandy King has written a definitive article on staining developers

for film entitled <a

href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html>An Introduction

to Pyro Staining Developers, With Special Attention to the Pyrocat-HD

Formula</a>. Check it out.

Sandy King has written a definitive article on staining developers

for film entitled <a

href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html>An Introduction

to Pyro Staining Developers, With Special Attention to the Pyrocat-HD

Formula</a>. Check it out.

Sandy King has written a definitive article on staining developers

for film entitled <a

href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html>An Introduction

to Pyro Staining Developers, With Special Attention to the Pyrocat-HD

Formula</a>. Check it out.

The best article I've been able to find on the process is Tony McLean's at <a href=http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tony.mclean/Articles/gold_article.html>http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tony.mclean/Articles/gold_article.html</a>.

You might try some local bleaching in the sky. I have tips on selective bleaching in section 11 of the following article: <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Printing/printing.html>Tips on Printing</a>.

I've tried many times over the past 20 years to revive old paper with the addition of benzotriazole to the developer--all attempts were utter failures.

 

I have, however, come up with a couple of uses for outdated paper. (1) I develop it out in the light and use the black paper to make dodging and burning tools. (2) I fix out unexposed paper and use it for various alternative processes.

I suggest you join the Alt-Photo-Process mail list. Someone there will be able to offer some advice. <a href=http://www.usask.ca/lists/alt-photo-process/>http://www.usask.ca/lists/alt-photo-process/</a>

There is a formula for Kodak reversal bleach here: <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/NbyR2/nbyr2.html>http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/NbyR2/nbyr2.html</a>. It is not the same as E6 bleach, but it is designed for bleaching b&w film.

There was a time when I read every post on all the forums. However, now the sheer quantity of posts is overwhelming. I simply don't have time or interest to read them all. I'm sure Mason would be happy with someone who could read SOME of the posts and keep things reasonably orderly. I think these forums verge on cordial compared to the old days, and the only posts I've deleted have been a few on the Alternative Process forum that were totally irrelevant. I'm about to retire, and while you might think that would give me more time to devote to forum moderation, in reality I'm much more interested in devoting myself to some serious darkroom work.

It seems that Mason Resnick dropped the ball and never named any of

his candidates to be forum moderator. I finally got hold of him and

he asked me to choose someone. So, if you are interested, please send

me an e-mail detailing your qualifications.

 

We need moderators for this forum, as well as the Printing &

Finishing and the Alternative Processes forums.

Try 9.5 minutes in Pyrocat-HD at 75 degrees for normal development. Agitate for 30 seconds at beginning of development, then for 10 seconds every minute thereafter. EI 100.

Rate it at 50 and develop for 12 minutes at 70 degrees. If you use a condensor enlarger, reduce the time by a minute or two.

<a href=http://www.dickblick.com/zz054/03/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=399>Dick Blick</a>

It is a sensitizing dye. Apparently, it changes the color sensitivity of the film. Perhaps someone else can provide more details. I do know that T-Max films are said to have slightly less blue sensitivity than other panchromatic films...

When this subject came up recently on the alt-photo-process list, various platinum/palladium printers stated that they prefer pt/pd due to its simplicity. I'm still working my way up to both kallitype and pt/pd, so I can't say, but the difference in price may ultimately determine my choice.

I agree, and I don't mind posting details: <a href=www.photovisionmagazine.com/>Photovision</a>. Let's help this unique magazine survive and prosper.

I don't know about compatibility, per se, but I believe if you painted the liquid emulsion over a white area of your painting, then exposed and developed it, you would get an image. However, I don't know what effect the various photo chemicals (developer, stop, fix) would have on the painting itself. Is acrylic waterproof?

See my article <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pinhole/pinhole.html>How to Make a Pinhole</a> for instructions on using brass shim stock. I have a friend who successfully uses aluminum from soda and beer cans.