sl

I plan on buying two MPs, and I will be keeping my current Leica Ms.

Which is it? A used M6 or an "ugly scratch on a completely new camera"? The easy solution is to fill in the scratch with a black Sharpie pen and go and use the camera, pretty soon you won't even notice the repair.

Andrew -- you are talking about one of my favourite lenses. This sample is at 1.4 on a M2 and using Delta 400. I do not seem to have any of the problems many others seem to have with this lens.

One thing to check is the slow shutter speeds. Set it on a 15th, put the body next to your ear, click the shutter, if you hear a whirring like sound after you fire the shutter, then your slow speeds are in good shape, which probably means the camera is in decent shape. Also check that the rangefinder is in alignment by focusing on infinity on something 2/3 miles away (clouds are always good), if they align then the rangefinder is aligned. I have a '56 M3 and it is built like a tank.

Well if you like to socialize with Leica people, they are definately a must do. But, I have found that group photo shoots does not produce very good photos. I have been on several LHSA shoots and it is always lots of fun. Since I am a member of the LHSA and live in Annapolis (very photogenic) I will be there.

Ken - all my enlargements are 8x10 with occasionaly 16x20. This does not matter what focal length and I use 21,28,35,50. My 8x10s are scanned on a cheap flatbed scanner for my website - www.streetphoto.net

 

sl

I use the insert that came with the 803 which I have placed at the center of the bag, on either side I carry two Ms with lenses and hoods mounted. In the center insert I can put two lenses. The front pouches gets the meter, film, cell phone, etc, etc.

More HCB tidbits found in the 1994 40th Leica M Anniversary Edition of 'Magic Moments.' HCB started with a Leica 11 at age 23 in 1932. In 1935 acquired a pair of leica 111Gs in 1935 (thanks to Leicas strange numbering system these are NOT the 111Gs introduced in the '50s). He used these until the M3 was introduced. Although a quote from Truman Capote in the book 'Bystander', Capote comments while in New Orleans with HCB watching him 'dance' down the street with four Leicas hanging from his neck. Also from a picture in the magazine HCB is a left eyed shooter.

Jay,

 

I do not really know how to answer your question, except to say I am firmly commited to film and currently spend on average $200 week for film, develop, contact, prints, this is just for B&W, add on another $100 for color. In the next 10 years I do NOT think that will even double in price, but if it did I would pay it, bearing in mind my income would also be increasing.

 

As an aside, I am in the film/video business and 25 years ago was told that film would be dead in 5 years. That has not happened. The people have spoken and they said that they do not want their movies to look like video on CNN.

 

What is overlooked in the Digicam/film debate, is with the Digicam, it is software driven and quickly obsolete. With the film camera, the film you load in your 50 year old M3 will give you the same results as the same film in an M7.

 

Digicams and film cameras are just boxes, the advantage of the film camera is that it is a very simple box that lasts for decades and produces excellent results with the latest software (the film) you load into it.

 

sl

"Please Critique" Okay! It is a well below average, average family, touristy photo. And you need a Leica for this? Sorry.

I read somewhere recently that photography is the #1 hobby in the world with tens of millions participants. Golf is pretty big too. So it makes sense that there will be a big disparity between good, bad and in-between. The important thing is to enjoy what you are doing, makes no difference whether you are an accomplished pro or a duffer. We all see a lot of 'duffer' quality photography I like to think it is important to revel in the enthusiasm of the duffer. Photography is like a craft, you have to learn how to do it and the more you do it the better you get.

Sounds to me like you have already made up your mind that you want the Summilux. So why spin your wheels with the CV/1.5? Yes the 'lux cost more, but I have one and it is worth it.

 

sl

Giles -- Welcome to '80's (not much different than the '00's). Maybe you will find out like I did, after buying two M6ttl's a year ago, that I continue to use my M2 and M3 about ninety percent of the time. Hand metering is so easy it is a no-brainer. But, many people seem to be afraid of it.

Garvey, there is no rule that says you have to 'collapse' a collapsbile lens. You can mount it then leave it in the open position. That is what I do with my Summitar on a 111c and you could also wrap a piece of tape around the barrel so it does not accidently get collapsed.

I am a magazine editor www.icommag.com and prefer pictures on a CD or zip disk, or e-mail as attachment. If prints there is no need for 12x16, 4x6 is okay because it is going into PhotoShop anyway. The best thing to do is to contact editor before sending.

 

sl

Well Hyatt, zone-focusing is the "work of the devil" something that I never do. Having said that on rare occasion I will carry four bodies with 50/2.0, 50/1.4, 28/2.9 and 35/1.4 pre-asph. Normally for my street photography (www.streetphoto.net) I use two bodies an M3 with a 50mm and M2 with 35mm or 28mm.

I wonder why you are not contacting Tom directly, he will have better answers than anybody on this list. And, I agree with what you say about the 111c, I have one which I also use for Street Photograpy www.streetphoto.net I would also like to say that putting a Rapid Winder on the 111c is defeating the purpose of small, light camera (you can say the same thing for the M). By advancing the film knob by just rolling your fore-finger along the knob you can make this camera very fast to use, also this will let you keep the camera at your eye.

Jamie,

 

I looked at your web site, nice pictures. Your technical notes say that you work with a Leica M and a 50mm lens because you like to keep it simple. I agree, I also shoot with Leica Ms. And I think for us KISS folks the Rollie TLR is perfect. But, I could never imagine me paying $3000 for the Rollie 2.8GX, so, last week I found a Rollie 2.8F for $200 in nice shape. Price-wise it just makes more sense and will produce the same result as a 2.8GX. And if you have the time look at my Leica photos at www.streetphoto.net

 

sl

There are spring loaded pins where the door hinges -- just take a thin blade to slip in and push a pin back and the door comes off.

I reckon that my ratio of film shot to keepers is about 360 to 1. That means 10 rolls shot for 1 keeper. For a truly outstanding photo the ratio would be much higher. I would say on my website which has about 300 photos there is maybe 5 that I consider exceptional. If you have the time to look -- www.streetphoto.net I shoot constantly and carry two Leica Ms with me all the time, even when going to the store to buy a loaf of bread. Taking 'keepers' is not something that anybody can casually do, you need to work at it every day of the year.

I do not remember exactly what the price was, but 10 years ago I bought a new Nikon F3HP body and it was about $12/1300. I do not think Leicas are outrageously expensive, all good things cost more. When you consider how long they last, I say they are actually dirt cheap. I have six Leicas, one of them was made in 1947 (111c) that I use as if it was built last month.

....one can certainly hope.

The 12585 hood can be used on the 50/2.0, 50/2.8, 50/3.5, 35/3.5, 35/2.8 and 35/2.0. At least that is what it says on the bottom of the hood. I currently use it on a 35/2.8 and a Summitar 50/2.0.

Patrick, the 50/1.4 could never be as sharp as the 35/1.4ASPH, as it is a lens that has evolved from its original 1935 design. But it is still a wonderful lens giving that 'glow' that older Leica lenses are well known for. The modern 35/1.4ASPH has that 'sharp-as-a-razor' look.

From what I know Winogrand used several Leica M4s mostly with a 28mm lens and he shot Tri X. Apparently he was most productive from the mid '60s and '70s