sl

Why??? They are the same thing.

I do not know about the silver tape, but, for black bodies the very best tape is Scotch vinyl #88. It is a perfect match for the leica flat black and from three feet away it is almost impossible to see. Plus, when you take it off it leaves no residue.

Jason -- The Domke 803 should work. If that Rollie 2.8 is a TLR move the Domke insert to the side of the bag then the Rollie will fit nicely. The M6 would go in the insert.

This 'No Words' thingie doesn't get much more pathetic than this.

It must be just me -- but I have never once looked into any of my 12 Leica or 8 Nikor lenses. So, who knows maybe my lenses are filled with dust and hairs, I don't know. Does not seem to effect my pictures.

Yes the Summitar is a good lens, very similiar to the first version (collapsible) Summicron. Even though I have the current version Summicron and Summilux I still like to use the old Summitar once in a while. It works best around f4 and f5.6.

The rangefinder may need an adjustment. But first make sure you are focusing infinity on a object at 2/3 mile away, clouds are always good for infinity check.

I have both. I do NOT think that one is better than the other, but, believe it or not I think the single stroke may be a bit slower to advance, because of long throw, than the DS. Both versions are good.

...let me try that again...

The Classic M bag is the best for leica Ms. It easily holds three Ms with lenses/hoods in place, or, two Ms and a Rollie TLR. It holds more than the Domke 803 and is easier to work out of, plus being canvas it is not slippery like a lot of bags and it wraps itself around your body. it has no padding at all, but in four years of constant daily use there has never been any camera damage, if you start putting in padding and inserts it will defeat the purpose of the bag, which is to be a functional, slim, light bag that is easy and quick to work out of.

 

Here is a picture:

I used to have the Super Angulon 21/4.0 and it was the worst 21mm of ANY brand that I have ever had. But, collectors like them because only about 5,000 were made.

 

If you are a shooter then buy the C/V 21mm, excellent lens.

Lucky me. Last weekend I found a 'beater' M3 at a local Leica dealer

for $400, I negoiated them down to $380. It is ugly with dents,

scratches, patched vulcanite. But everything works, especially the

shutter speeds and after three test rolls the beater is dead on with

perfect exposures.

 

For my purposes a beater camera has always been the way to go, all

I want is a camera that takes good exposures and keeps on working. The

whole concept of being a photographer with a 'mint' camera escapes me.

 

My Beater history goes back many years when I started out as a

freelance magazine photographer when a trip to a pawn shop would get

me two Nikon F bodies and four lenses for $200 or less. Back then I did

not even know what a Leica was or I probably would have been picking up

some great deals.

 

So, anybody looking to get into Leica M cheaply, instead of

wasting your time on e-Bay, cruise your camera stores' used department

looking for scruffy Ms. In the past few years I have picked up several

low priced bodies and lenses.

I tried my two M3s and could not see anything.

Yes they are rare. Only about 450 were made (original cost was around $300) and this one is #67. That is why it is worth so much. This camera is about 45 years old and it is safe to say that somebody paying all that money for the current MP, in 45 years will have a camera that will be at least five times the original price.

George -- I am sure it looks really nice. I recover the bodies on my M2s with black duct tape. Being users they look pretty good too.

Morgan -- the combined original price new for my black paint M2/3s was less than $900, a conservative estimate would value them at over $10,000. I am a daily user not a collector and I do not care how much I beat them up, they can take it.

Steve LeHuray

Annapolis, Maryland

 

Full time magazine photographer -- Street Photography as a hobby.

Used to work for motor sport magazines now work for a film trade magazine taking pictures of celebrities and such.

 

Leica Ms, Rollie TLR and Nikon.

Personally speaking, I have no need for Digicams, AF or Program Modes.

Less is more.

 

sl

Any of the hoods for e39 lenses (35/50mm) will work -- I think it is the 12585 hood that I use on my Summitar.

Matt -- the obvious answer to me is to have both the M2 and M3 which is the way that I have gone. I cannot imagine having only one M body.

John -- for me the knob rewind is a non-issue on my M2 or M3 compared to the canted crank on my M6s as the rewind speed difference between the two is marginal. But, when using the 'high-speed' accessory crank on the knob I suggest placing your finger on the stem as you re-wind to keep the stem from wobbling due to the extra torque of the crank.

Michael -- many of us have no interest in complicated techno things. A camera is a simple thing where light passes through a small hole on a lens to create an image. I prefer to be thinking about my composition rather than a program mode that I do not need. BTW, the M3 prototype was shown in 1935, so it has been around for 20 years longer than most realize.

28mm becuse you can get in close to a subject but still encompass the surroundings. My second choice would be a 24mm.

28mm becuse you can get in close to a subject but still encompass the surroundings. My second choice would be a 24mm.

Glue??

I am not so sure about that. I have two M2s, an M3 and two M6TTLs and I am hard pressed to see or feel any difference with the quality or operation of any of them.