nacio_jan_brown3

Before you trim the sink, measure the width of your space at several points from front to back. You may find that the space tapers one way or the other, or bulges in the middle. I would cut it a good 1/4" less than the smallest width measurement. You don't want to have to cut more than once. Good luck, njb

Use a fast film. Don't push unless the lighting demands it. Better if you can overexpose a stop or so. Use a wide lens so you have to crop down to a smaller part of the frame. Overdevelop, using Rodinal for sharp grain. You want to enlarge a dense, flat negative. njb

"The Looking Glass" on Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley carries it. njb

When you have unrolled the film to the place where the paper backing is attached, pull the paper off the tape, leaving the tape attached to the film. Then fold the tape over the end of the film, making it stiffer and easier to handle. As suggested above, trim just a bit off each leading corner of the film. I use fingernail clippers for this. njb

For even more stiffness at the tape end of the film, don't tear the tape as suggested. Instead, peel the film off the tape and then fold the end of the tape over the end of the film. One thing to watch out for when sliding the film under the little clip is that the film is centered laterally, side to side, inside the reel. Another is that you keep the film oriented straight out of the reel, not slightly angled toward one side or the other. Give this a try, in the light, with the reels you have. You might not need to switch to Hewes or to plastic reels. njb P.s. With plastic reels I find that using a nail clipper to clip off the leading corners of the film makes getting the film started on the reel much easier.

The cart shown on this link is pretty neat, too. http://www.sherpacart.com/

I agree completely with the comments above. One feature not mentioned is that it comes with a number of perforated slides that slip into position behind the white hemisphere. Each slide is specific to a particular ISO film speed rating, making quick readouts possible. If the old Sekonic Studio meter was a Chevy, the Spectra Combi is a Cadillac. njb P.s. IMHO incident readings can't be beat for roll film.

I very much miss the big Kuttrimmer I used to have. It qualifies as the Hummvee of guillotime types. Nothing like it. njb

I file them in the plastic pages that you can place on paper to make contacts. The pages go into the kind of plastic three-ring box/binder that photo suppliers have for about $10. The box minimizes dust and grit that can scratch the negatives. I keep the contacts in a *separate* box/binder rather than in with the negatives. This allows me to review and search contact sheets without disturbing the negatives. When I find an image I want to print, I know exactly which negative file to look for. Each negative box corresponds to a matching contact sheet box. By the way, the best system I have found for numbering rolls is to use a six-digit year/month/day code based on the day of development or return of film from the lab. June 16, 2003 would be 030616. More often than not, there will be more than one roll with the same date code. Each roll gets a letter, as in 030616-A, 030616-B, etc. One of the advantages of this numbering system is that it will sort in a record-keeping database. Works for me. njb

You might check out their "Variety Pack," a selection of bags running from 3x5" to 10x12" for $10. I ordered this to see if the 6x8" would work for 4x5 holders. As I said above, it *just* makes it. Another thing: their shipping is instant. "Variety Pack" link: http://www.staticbags.com/Zipper-Variety.html. P.s. I am associated with this business only in being a satisfied customer. Regards, njb

I know that there have been messages about this before, but I'm not

sure that the following source for gray static-shielding bags with

zip-lock type closures was ever posted. The 6x8" bag is just large

enough for a 4x5" film holder. The minimum order seems to be 50 bags

for $9.00. It has been said that such bags help to keep dust down. Go

to: http://www.eskimo.com/~gclaunch/BayStat6x8st.html.

Regards, njb

Does anyone have experience with any of the Victorinox E-Motion 360

packs. They look pretty interesting: large main compartment,

removable day-pack, shoulder harness + waist strap, side handle for

suitcase-type carrying, and wheels with the only pull-handle of

adequate length I've seen. Feedback? njb

I've used Willi Maier for years. Semi-retired now but still open Fridays and Saturdays from 10 to 3. 819 A Street, San Rafael. 415-459-7099. Can't be beat. njb

Actually, you don't need texture to tell whether there is any density change. Comparison of the image area with the clear film base between frames will show density differences. But, beware: the presence of density discernible on a light box doesn't tell the whole story. For your lowest non-black zone, the density must show up as (just) distinguishible from black on a *print.* Getting back to the test target, using a smooth mat board is ok. Also, if you want to be rigorous, keep your lens focused at infinity, as the effective f/stop changes as you focus closer. This means that you can use a small test target, like a gray card, as long as you fill the frame with it (and don't cast a shadow on it in the process). njb

Dear Ken,

"all this sensitometry" is not a waste of time, but given that, you don't need the step wedge and you don't need the densitometer. Your instinct to use your enlarger is right on the money. Here is a quick run down of the steps to establish film speed and development time. Knowledge of metering and "placing" values in exposing is assumed. As you work, take notes and keep the enlarger head at the same height and use the same enlarging lens f/stop. 1) Make a test strip through clear film base with about 1/4 stop exposure increments. Check the strip dry, under moderate (and repeatable) light conditions for the section just noticibly different from the next darkest. The exposure time of this section is your basic exposure for the tests. Make a series of exposures filling the frame with something featureless like a mat board, "placing" it on the darkest zone next to black, Z0 or Z1 depending on your zone system version. Bracket by 1/3 stop increments a couple of stops over and under. Develop and make prints with the frame line centered in the negative carrier. View the dry prints in your controlled light. The darkest print where there is a visible difference between the frame line and an adjacent frame was the correct exposure. Work backwards from this to the effective film speed, your E.I. In the next few rolls you shoot, make a single exposure of the mat board, filling the frame and placing it on the zone to be just off white (IX?, X?). Make a print of it with your standard enlarger head height, f/stop, keeping half the paper covered. Play around with film developing times until the print shows the just-off-white you are after (viewed in your control light set-up). A handy mnemonic: to place "down" on a lower zone, stop "down;" to place "up" on a higher zone, open "up." njb

p.s. Use your step wedge to judge paper response curves. As it has a straight "curve" it's a lot more useful than any developed film with a curved curve you have to compensate for.

An interesting alternative to the above is the "Hocus Focus," available from Jobo USA. (http://www.jobo-usa.com/products/miscprod.htm#Hocus%20Focus) It is a different type of device, presenting the image on a plastic ground "glass" surface that you view directly, rather than as an aerial image you view through an eyepiece. It's inexpensive, around $25, I think. Definitely worth a look. Ctien, in his book, "Post Exposure," talks about some kind of error inherent in the aerial image focusers for some people. njb

Loading 120 film, which is floppy relative to 35mm, is easier if, instead of cutting off the end taped to the backing paper, you pull the backing paper off the tape and then fold the tape over the end of the film. This makes the end stiffer. As mentioned in posts above, you should clip off the leading corners of the film if you are using a Paterson type ratcheting reel. A little nail clipper is just right for this, as it keeps you from clipping off too much. If you are using a stainless steel reel the corner clipping isn't necessary. njb

There seems to be a confusion here between 2-bath developers and water-bath development. These are not the same thing. In response to the original question, I can't think of a reason that 2-bath developers don't get more press. Diafine is great with many films. The main drawback, which can be largely overcome in printing, is that it isn't possible to jack up the contrast of a negative by much. njb

Better yet, get the new "Vario" model of the above timer and use it

with: http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/zonemaster.htm. njb

Hands down: http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/SCPro.htm

The Bogen, every time. njb

I just got some Mido film holders without any instructions other than those printed on the back of the rigid plastic holder you slip under the ground glass. Can anyone out there email or fax (510.217.2410) me original instructions. There are two types of flexible holders for the film sheets. One has #1 printed on one side and #2 printed on the other. The second type has a #1 printed over a #2 on each side. ?? And, can anyone tell me what this: http://www.naciobrown.com/dscn.jpg is for? TIA, njb

And all this time I thought that the "Philosophy of Photography" was

the forum for contributors to talk past each other by the scrupulous

avoidance of defining of terms. njb

During set up, if you are able to place a straight edge in the

subject position parallel to what will be an axis through the width

of the subject, then you can use a backpacking style compass. I'm

thinking of the kind made by Silva that allows you to rotate the dial

to get the engraved arrow exactly under the floating magnetic needle.

You take the bearing from the straight edge and then make sure that a

measurement taken at the film plane is the same. You should easily be

able to be accurate within one degree. njb

FWIW, I have had caked Part A only in the 1 liter packs, not the 5

liter packs. njb