gene_crumpler18

Mason;

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Excellent news! I just subscribed to Pop Photo last week after

droping my subscription several years ago as a protest about Cambridge

Camera's practices. I hope that B&W world will continue as a great

forum for B&W workers.

I've used frozen B&W film (T-max 100) that was 5 years out of date

with good results. Infrared film will last maybe 1 1/2 to 2 years past

its data with acceptable results. Beyond 2 years major fogging occurs.

I store all of my film in the freezer along with the pork chops as a

standard precaution. Let the film warm-up for 2-3 hours before opening

the box.

Ethol TEC is also excellent with Tech Pan. According to Ethol's web

site, TEC is the developer of choice for the Leica Institute, FWIW.

Since you want to try this, here are a couple of additional ideas. I

use 120 film in a hassie 220 back and it works fine except that the

frame spacing is greater in the 220 back. This means that if I start

the roll of 120 at the red arrow, the 12th shot is halfway off the

film. So I wind the film just until the start arrow on the film first

becomes visible. This gives a 3cm head start and allows the use of the

12th frame. The need to do this depends on the way the back detects

the advance of the film. FWIW.

Try B&H and Film For Classics for 620 film. Rerolling 120 onto 620

spools is easy once you understand how 120 film is attached to the

paper leader.

Here is an idea;

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Roll say tech pan onto another 120 spool, in the dark of course!

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Now unroll from the exposed end until you get to the loose end of the

film. Tape the film firmly to the leader and then cut the paper

backing at the taped end and then cut the paper just after the

beginning of the film. Wa La, backless 120!

Anthony;

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Could you give us some more info about home developing of XP-2?

Well, here is my review of the trunk case. Built like a tank and

heavy! Holds the gear very well and inspires confidence. I don't know

if Pentax makes this case for the p67II. For extended hikes and travel

I am now using a Hassie and a Contax G1. Sorry!

ALWAYS carry a spare for your p67. The battery test light did not

predict the demise of the orginal battery. So there I was with the

mirror half way up, thirty miles from the nearest battery store. BTW,

you can get the batteries at Home Depot,CVS,etc for about $2 less than

a camera store.

Thje site is;

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http://home.att.net/~gene.crumpler/w3.html

Rock City State Park between Deming, NW and Silver City is worth a

stop if you are in the area. See

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<http://home.att.net/~gene.crumpler/w3.html>

A possible answer for your situation is to use Diafine for developing

film. It is insensitive to temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees,

as well as time and agitation variations. It is pretty fool proof.

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For printing, the temperatures are not real important unless you have

extreme temperature swings say over 80 degrees. If you know that the

temperature only varies between 70 and 80 degrees, I wouldn't worry

about print solution temperatures.

Another safe guard is to us a credit card for your purchase. You can

always dispute the charge if things don't go well. I've disputed

charges before like a $6,300 charge for airline tickets!!!. It took

me about 30 seconds after opening the bill to hit their 800 number

with a fraud allert! Got it all straightened out in a few days.

I've purchased a number of cameras and had only good experiences.

Most were small (under $100) items for my camera collection. I

returned a camera that arrived DOA and got a refund quickly. For the

two big ticket items, I purchased thorough established Companies that

offered warrenties on their equipment. I'd be reluctant to purchase a

$1,000 item from an individual, with no extended warrenty.

So much for HTML!

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http://home.att.net/~gene.crumpler.

Check:

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<http://home.att.net/~gene.crumpler>

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Almost all of the images were made with 35mm 2415.

Bill;

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I use Diafine for all of my B&W work, including Tech Pan in 35 and

120. It is a great developer to get consistentency in your

development. Results are independent of temperature, time and

agitation, within limits. It is very good for T-max films as they are

very sensitive to all three of these. It should work for LF negatives

as well.

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Typically you get a boast of 1 to 1 1/2 stops above the Factory ASA.

If the negative is not on the button, then you KNOW that the exposure

is not on, as the development is always on (barring exhaustion of the

developer). The stuff last for months and months. I use part of the

A and B solution for development and use the rest of the of A and B

solutions to constantly replenish the working solutions.

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The company has a web site that explains how to use the developer.

Try a search for ETHOL.

Steve;

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This is SOP for replacing the prism. If you mount the prism with a

lens on the body, the stop attached to the chain is too far to the

left (looking from the back of the camera) and will not engage the

connection in the meter. Always take the lens off the body

before reinstalling the meter.

To be fair to the Photo.net guys, they get 100's of more posts than

here. They just announced a new policy today, where there will be two

posting areas. One, unmoderated for quick questions that will be

auto-deleted after 24 hours and a second that will be moderated more

closely, retainded for the archives, and auto-deleted after one week.

There has been some discussion about 120 and 220 film flatness on the

Med. Format Digest. In summary, Zeiss has determined that 220 is

flatter than 120. I don't know if this testing just applies to

Hasselblads. I would assume that this would be true for all 120/220

cameras.

To follow up;

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Scott is developing 35mm HIE in technidol for 16 minutes at 70. He

uses a TTL meter setting of 300 and takes exposure readings off a grey

card. His images look pretty low contrast for HIE. Hope this idea

works on 120 MACO which is NOW available on B&H's web site! Konica 750

is just too high contrasted and nonhalated(new word?)for me.

Has any one looked into using an infrared source/scope to handle B&W

(except IR film)? Might be a useful tool rather than working totally

by feel. The cost of the light/scope would dictate the usefulness.

Or is this a high tech answer to a low tech problem?