will_groff

I've been working with 665 recently which is essentially the same as 55pn. After messing around with the sodium sulphite for a while, I tried HCA. What a nice difference. The black coating comes off much easier and usually in one larger piece, not thousands of bits. What's really amazing is that it removes all the unwanted material much more quickly and thoroughly than the sulphite ever did.

After re-reading the Ansel Adams Polaroid book, I now follow with a wash then rapid fix, then HCA again, final wash and photo flo.

Understanding that a spacer 'lifts' the shutter off the board, if one was trying to set up a lens at the manufactured infinity distance, film plane to flange distance, would the flange measurement be taken from the surface of the spacer to the film plane, or would the measurement be taken from the back of the shutter itself to the film plane? This has been a question I've wondered about for quite a while, what do folks think?

For what it's worth. Apparently, the Polaroid 900 model has the same rangefinder/viewfinder as the 110b.

Fair is in that perfect world we're all looking for....

Chill Will, I for one would love to have your camera conversion, as I suspect many would, but just can't afford it.

There's just something about seemingly trying to control and restrain other peoples actions that grates on me. There seems no doubt of the value of protecting your rights, but the tenor overall is too far reaching and incomprehensible at times.

Why don't you just file the lawsuits you need to? The free exchange of information and ideas have a life of there own, as well they should.

This has overtones of Pinky and the Brain.......

http://www.rwhirled.com/landlist/how2-packconv.htm

Here is a sight with some tips on hacking Polaroids and the different models that lend themselves to the conversion easier than others.

As a matter of film coverage with the series V protar, I often see f45 as the smallest stop, questions and debates arise over ability to cover 5x7, dark corners etc.

The Protar series V that I have goes to f 256, and nearly covers 8x10 before corner falloff, perhaps Bill Brandt had this version Protar.

Is there anyone who has used the 90mm Rodenstock Helical focus mount

with a Nikon 90mm SW f/8 lens?

What finally worked for me was to get 2 small Rubbermaid tubs, with lids, they measure about5.5in X8.5in X 2.25in deep.//Walmart is the place to have choice in the world of plastics, but there everywhere.

I have been processing with Acufine, so I re-use it a few times. Pour in enough developer in one tub to nearly fill it up, when I'm ready to process, I pour half into the other tub, put them side by side, touching each other is ok, I can agitate both in the same manner and motion,one with left hand, one with right hand, they are in separate trays, no confusion, no sticking together, best of all is that the bottom has an ever so slight convex molded shape to it which seems to keep the neg from sticking to the bottom or anything like that. It is absolutely smooth inside, you can see that the mold seems and points are on the outside, run your hand inside to be sure it's the right type.

When I'm done, pour everything back into one, lids go on to store and keep the processing tubs free of any dirt or dust.

Two at a time, kinda limited, but really, I have no reason to be in a bigger hurry at this point, the control that i'm getting is satisfying compared with large paper trays. The other thing that made it work for me was the relatively short developing times I can use with Acufine, agitation is very methodical, very deliberate, very gentle with this developer, I am stunned at the results for sheet film, it solved many problems for me.Distilled H2O to mix original solution.

good luck, Bill

Could someone clarify the phrase "film to flange distance" for me.

Specifically, the understanding of flange. At what point is the

measurement taken from, in regard to flange? Is this the threaded

piece that the back lens element is screwed into?

Thanks, Bill

I also have a Protar V, 5x7 series, and have been trying to do the same for some time.

The one thing I can tell you is that a #0 shutter will not work, mostly due to the fact that the back of the shutter is not big enough and will almost certainly cause vignetting{sp}.It is also too small to just screw in the front.

My final conclusion at this point is a #1 shutter and SK Grimes talents for precision work.

What value does anyone think should be placed on this particular lens?

Bob, does the correct helical mount for the Grandagon F8 rotate the entire unit including the shutter?

Maybe George qualifies for a discount on a new helical in the future.

I'm going to the beach.

From Lam's reference, I contacted SK Grimes about there Focus 1 mount for the 90mm Nikor SW f6.8./copal #0

This is a project that they had done before for a Cambo wide.

Adam at SK Grimes quoted the price to fabricate the focuser at $250.00, an additional $75.00 to engrave distance marks on the mount. Both lens and body would need to be sent to them also.

Well Bob, how about sending me that brochure.

I do have one specific question for you as well, if I may.

If I was to buy a used Grandagon, will all models be able to receive the helical mount; is there any cutoff serial # etc, will they all adapt properly?

I'm located down here near the "mouse house", in Florida.

Bill Groff

PO Box 741

Winter Park, Fl. 32790

 

You guys are great, thanks.

I've got to see that Grandagon brochure.

I would be going for the f8 Nikkor-SW, the sharpness, size and multi-coating, affordability to buy new, are together compelling. I have seen the rodenstock helical on the B+H sight however, and the Grandagon is definitely my close second choice.

I guess the real question is does Nikon make a matching helical for there own lenses? Seems to be an unknown right now.

I'll have to check out the SK Grimes focuser, but to be honest, I would go for an exact factory match at this point, or send the lens to SK Grimes and get it set right by a real pro.

Bill

Thanks for the help Joe. I have been to the sight, should be solid info from them.

I'm working on a handheld 4x5 project. I've been testing with a zeiss protar V lens, no shutter, uncoated, a newer lens is the only way to go for contrast and helical would bring it together.

From what i've read, the Nikor is most appealing to me.

I'll post what i find out in the next few weeks.

Bill

Would anyone know if a helical mount is available for the Nikon 90mm

SW lens, and who might distribute this item?

Bill Groff

Would anyone know the front thread size for a Rapax shutter with a

135mm wollensak lens mounted in it?

Bill Groff

Would anyone know the front thread size on a Rapax shutter that has a

135mm wollensak lens mounted on it.

Thanks, Bill Groff

I have the Bausch and Lomb Zeiss Protar series V lens, patent jan. 18, '91 stamped on it. It also has 5x7 V on it. This is the 3 5/16 focal lenght lens, a real honey.

I shot it on an 8x10 back in the '70s and there was corner fall off, but it was close to covering the whole film. The max f stop is 256.

This lens was given to me by a fella named Vince Spangler, who was my first still photo guide. Vince was the cinematographer for such films as , the original 'Blob', he created all the special effects as well. Another film was the little known, '4-D man'.

I had forgotten that i even had it until about 6 months ago when i started building a camera to put the lens on. Today, it will expose film for the first time in 25 years as the camera is done enough to give it a try.The camera, named the 'Opus 1' is a convoluted assembly from a polaroid colorpack body, a hand made back to accept 4x5 sheet film, the barrel lens is front mounted on a very simple kodak shutter, and the viewfinder is fashioned from a Pan- Vue 3 slide viewer which cost $3.00 and sports Leitz cover glass, ground to fit on the front, with a bubble level mounted inside the viewer.

It's basically a handheld 4x5, i put tripod mounts on as well. My biggest worry is to see if it can get past the back end of the shutter without catching the edges. So call me crazy, but who isn't.

Anyway, thought i'd contribute my 2 cents in memory of Vince.

Photonet has been a real resource and inspiration to get back into photography after a few years of drifting away.

Oh yeah, there is a wooden bridge mounted on the left side of the back from a mid- '60's Guild 6 string guitar for a grip area, hence, Opus.

On re-reading what i just wrote, i think i would qualify as crazy. It's the image i'm after though, i'll do what it takes.

Bill Groff

I have one of the earliest M4's made and it is in dire need of help.

I remember hearing about a summer special refurbishment done by Leica in NJ years ago. Has anyone ever had there camera body reworked by Leica or have any info on cost of such an undertaking.

Thanks, Bill Groff