bill_bartels1

I have recieved a lot of very useful info on grafmatic holders from

this thread. Thanks to you all for your responses. I loaded the

holders again last night and will try again to shoot with them hand

held, shading the back as best I can while changing sheets. I do

think these holders are a very inventive idea and probably worked

very well for many years. I have not recieved the partial refund from

the seller yet. When I do I may look for another holder in better

conditon.

It seems I have started somewhat of a debate. I loaded the holders up

again this weekend and did some more testing. I put my Crown Graphic

on a tripod set up on my back porch overcast day in the shade. I

exposed one holder all six shots on the same focus plane. The next

day I shot the other holder outside hand held still overcast and

processed all film at the same time. The holder shot on the porch had

no leaks at all and futhermore the images look sharp all across the

film plane. The holder exposed outside had small leaks at all corners

as well as an eight of an inch at the film edge on the coded end.

Upon further inspection I have found a crack in the holder that I

used outside. It is cracked where the darkslide goes in right by

lock. I think I might be able to glue it if anyone knows what type of

glue to use. My conclusions are that I will not be able to use these

holders for my intended purpose (handheld with the Crown). I also

checked the holders with a straight edge and machinists' ruler and

they seem to be flat across the film plane. This is not as precise as

a micrometer but the images are sharp and thats what counts. In

normal shooting conditions with my 8x10 on a tripod I always shield

the holder with my darkcloth to avoid any leaks. Of all the used 4x5

sheet film holders I have purchased only the Riteways are any good

the rest all leaked when exposed to normal room lights.

I will try the holders again this weekend with your suggestions. I

have a long outdated box of tri-x that I use for testing film holders

so at least I am not wasting good film. I purchased these holders

with the Idea of doing some hand held work with my Crown Graphic. I

probably would not use them for critical tripod mounted work.

Thanks for the info. I may take a partial refund and see if I can

figure out the problem. I checked the holders with my bend - a-light

that I use to check camera bellows and the only light I can see

coming through is at the dark slide but this is with the slide out.

All felt seems to be in place. all septums are straight.

Hi,

I just purchased two grafmatic film holders and after testing they function ok but have light leaks at the corners and where the U shaped cut out is in each septum. Can these holders be repaired? I have a 5 day return option but the seller has offered a partial refund if I can have them repaired. What to do? Thanks for any help.

Don't I feel silly. I am sure you have already seen their web site

since it is the only place I know of to purchase their books

If you like Michael's vision then I would highly recommend Michael

and Paula's workshop Vision and Technique. I was fortunate enough to

take it in August of 2000 and it was the best invesment I have made

in my photography. To learn first hand how they use the view camera

to see their images will set you on the road to making great images.

Check out their website www.michaelandpaula.com if you haven't

already. I know they are only giving one workshop this year so you

may have to wait but it will be worth it.

I second the recomendation for Agfa neutol WA. It gives a very nice

print color with Azo. Develop for one minute. I use a very dilute

selenium 1/2 oz. to a half gallon for 3 minutes for permanence only

no color change. Save the Amidol for negs that need compesating dev.

with a water bath.

keep watching ebay. There was a seller who had 7x17 and 8x20 Koronas

up for auction. I emailed him with questions and he said he also has

an 11x14 he is going to put up. He may be high on price however, he

did not sell either of the other cameras.

Thanks to all who responded to my question. I checked the holders out

and they seem to be excellent. I purchased them for $25.00 each so I

could not go too wrong.

Hi,

I am looking for a couple more 8x10 film holders. My local camera dealer has a pair of Hoffman metal master holders . They look to be in good shape but they don't load in the normal manner. The normal flap does not open, you pull a pin at the other end of the holder that allows the film to slip in far enough to slide under the flap.

My question is does anyone have experience loading these holders and are they decent holders overall, it seems like they may be a pain to load.

Thanks

Bill Bartels

My vote goes to contact printing on Azo. There really is nothing like

it. Printing becomes almost too easy. (provided your negs have the

right contrast range).I develop in Agfa nuetol W and give a short

bath is selenium. Azo costs about the same as enlarging paper and I

like the print color I get with the Agfa. Check out Micheal A. Smith

and Paula Chamlee's web page for more info on printing with Azo paper

www.michaelandpaula.com I use a 120 watt flood bulb with an

electronic metronone to time exposures. Exposure times are around 10

secs. I also recommend developing negs in pyro by inspection.

Good luck.

If you are not determined to order over the internet. I had a bellows

made for my Linhof tech III 5x7 by Western Bellows Co. They have

specs for your camera and make very nice bellows. The price I thought

was very good also $175.00 including shipping. I was very satisfied.

Western Bellows Co.

9340 7th street, Suite G

Rancho Cucamonga CA. 91730-5664

(909) 980-0606

Hi,

Does anyone know the image circle of the 19" red dot artar. I am thinking about a panoramic camera either 7x17 or 8x20. It would be great if my 19" artar would cover.

Thanks

Bill Bartels

Hi Sol,

I see you have already recieved some good advise on your question. I

think you made a good choice going with the Toyo board. I don't think

anyone said they accually have used a copal 3 shutter on their Toyo.

I have and the only problem I had was if you want to mount the

shutter straight as it should be the lever for the apeture will hit

the side of the front standard. One solution is to rotate the shutter

90 degrees or do as I did and use a spacer to gain clearance. I work

in a G.M. car dealership and found that the spacers used in G.M. rear

axles are the right size and give about one quarter inch space. There

may be better ways to do it but this worked for me. IF you want to

use this method let me know and I will get you the part number for

the spacer they only cost a couple of bucks

Bill Bartels

Hi,

Just purchased a 19 Goerz Artar in a #4 acme shutter for my 8x10. I am trying to mount the lens. I have a board with a 65mm hole. Although the lens and threads go thought the hole it leaves only two threads showing not enough for a good mount. The retaining ring has a raised ridge on one side and about a 4mm threaded rise on the other. It appears that the hole would need to be enlarged to about 70mm for the ridge to sit into. Anyone who has mounted an older ilex shutter who knows the proper size hole I would appreciate the info. I don't want to screw up a good board they are no longer made for my camera.(old Cambo with the 8.5" boards)

Thanks

Bill

Thanks to everyone for your input. I did get an image in the one inch

strip it was just about 1 stop more exposed. I will try your

suggestions when shooting in these conditons again.I have checked for

light leaks very carefully. I use a high intensity fiber optic

flashlight light that works very well and shows any leaks clearly.I

don't believe it was bellows sag because it was a horizontal shot and

the stip ran vertically the bellows extension was maybe 14 inches.

Thanks

Bill Bartels

Hello,

I experienced a strange film fog problem on my last exposures. I exposed an 8x10 neg. hp5+ in early morning light. Sun was at my back and up at about a 20 angle. I used my 300mm lens and a 21 orange filter in a Calumet gel holer clipped on the lens with barn door type shade. When I processed the film I got a one inch strip that ran across the entire neg on one edge as though I was making a test strip on paper( did not go to edges of film). I though at first it was a processing problem (PMK) So next morning I went back and made two exposures with a diffent holder same light conditions. Processed one neg. in PMK and one in hc110 and I got the same one inch strip on both negs. I then checked my camera all over for any leaks none found. I have since made other exposures with no problems. My only though is that I had some kind of internal reflection of light. What about this type of filter holder reflecting light back into the lens? anyone had any problems of this type?

Thanks

Bill Bartels

I own a 210mm 4.5 Osaka Commercial lens. It is as you said a tessar

formula with modern multicoating and copal shutter . It is sharp and

contrasty and works well for my black and white work on 5x7 format.

It is mounted in a copal 3 shutter which is large but easy to use. I

can't speak for their usefulness for color work but I was told that

they perform well. Overall a great lens for a reasonable price. I

would buy one before an old Kodak commercial Ektar which is not

muticoated and the shutter may be a problem and you will probably

spent less money. I also shoot with 240 and 300 mm Fuginon A lenses

and would said the Osaka just as sharp. Also the 4.5 apeture is sure

nice to focus with. The Fuginons are F9s but much smaller and

lighter.

Hello,

I need a little advise from any 8x10 shooters out there.

I have the oppotunity to purchase an older Cambo camera. I am not sure of the model designation but this camera converts from 8x10, 5x7 and 4x5, has a load of accessories for the 4x5, bag bellows, reflex viewer,compendium lens hood,Graflock back with Boss screen, recessed boards,ect. It includes a 30" and 16" rails and is very light weight I am mainly interested in the 8x10 as I have been making ziatype contact prints from 5x7 negs. and would like to shoot 8x10 also. I shoot mostly lanscapes but also do studio work, still lifes and potraits. I am told lens boards for the 8x10 portion are no longer available but it includes (6) 8x10 boards. I already puchased a 300mm Fuginon A lens from this owner and will get a 240 fuginon A with the deal. I currently shoot with a Linhof 5x7 Tech III. It is a very nice camera but lacks front lens tilt an weighs 10 lbs. My question is should I sell the Linhof and go for the Cambo I beieve he wants around $1500.00 for the outfit including the 240mm Fuginon. I do think I would like the flexability of this camera but I have seen straight Cambo/Calumet 8x10 cameras that sold for around $700.00. Any advise greatly appreciated. I know camera choice is a personal thing but I seem to be gravitating to larger formats and contact printing after having shot 4x5 for a year or so and 5x7 for only about 6 months. I also like the added movements gained with a monorail camera.

Thanks

Bill Bartels

I have recently purchased a 5x7 Linhof Tech III , late model

around 1956. I learned large format technique by reading Jim Stone's book which uses view camera movements ( front standard to change focus plane and rear standard for focus and perspective control) rather than field camera movements. I was able to apply these to my Toyo 4x5 AX without any problem. I shoot mostly landscape using front rise and slight tilt for most shots. I have a normal 210mm for the Linhof. Any tech III users out there who can shed light on the best technique for focusing for max. depth of field with this camera. Using the back movements changes the perspective and dropping the bed seems to be to much tilt for a landscape. I am sure that as I use this camera I will find the best method but would like to avoid a lot of trial and error. Maybe someone knows of a book related to this subject althought I have not seen I myself.

Thanks

Bill Bartels

It appears I have solved my PMK spotting problem, I recently processed 2 sheets of film using filtered tap water as suggested by Mike Kravit and I got no spotting. I can't imagine why distilled water would have caused the spots but I'll continue to use it.

Thanks to everyone who responded and thanks to Mike for the answer.

Bill Bartels

Thanks to everyone for your input. I have not been useing PMK because

of my spotting problems, but I will try again with your suggestions.

I have been having good tesults with hc-110 developed in tanks with

hangers, no spots, no pinholes, negs look great and print easily.

Thanks again

Bill Bartels

Just to clarify, The spots I am getting are about the size of a

pencil eraser and dark. Sometimes only one spot but can be two or

three they usually appear in the denser portion of the negative. I

also get pinholes but I know what causes these.

Thanks Bill