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kenneth_bruno

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Posts posted by kenneth_bruno

  1. <p>As most, if not all of you have suggested, I could keep fiddling around with the alignment or just get the proper lens for the job. Perhaps worth the piece of mind alone. <br>

    Is a process lens the right choice though? I thought these lenses best for shooting actual size, not for images needing enlargement. Not the sharpest for this application. Maybe I'm wrong? <br>

    A macro lens the better choice?<br>

    I am using tungsten hot lights not strobes. Either way, I might be able to use a packard shutter for a barrel lens.<br>

    Not much in the way of film and chemicals. More frustrating than costly at this point.<br>

    My best,</p>

  2. <p>Thank you for the replies.<br>

    I am leaning more towards an alignment issue rather than a fall-off issue. My guess is that if it were fall-off, each edge and corner would be out of focus similarly, rather than just one or another. However, I think it a great idea to photograph a piece of newsprint (after checking the alignment) to determine if there is fall-off and to find the best aperture.<br>

    A process lens is also a great idea though spending the money on a lens I might never use again seems a waste (unless I find it to be the only option).<br>

    The mirror 'trick' is interesting too, though it might prove difficult to mount it on the artwork since it is hung vertically. If I could position the artwork on the floor or table, I could simply rest the mirror on top. Such is not the case. I will keep this in mind though. Clever!<br>

    I never thought photographing a flat subject would be such a challenge.<br>

    Again I thank you for your input. <br>

    Let the games begin!<br>

    Ken</p>

     

  3. <p>Greetings,<br>

    Recently I attempted to photograph a flat piece of artwork with my 4x5 Busch Pressman (b+w film). All the negatives were in sharp focus EXCEPT for one corner, and not the same corner either. In some cases one edge was out of focus half way down. Figuring the Busch was out of whack I used my old plate camera with a 4x5 back and Symmar-S 210 lens. The same situation; one or two corners out of focus (as seen through the ground glass). I would refocus on the corner to only find the center out of focus. I didn't bother wasting any film. What gives? Any ideas? <br>

    The artwork is of very fine black lines and requires the sharpest focus possible.. <br>

    The wall is level (at least vertically).<br>

    The camera appears to be perpendicular with lens and back aligned (maybe not?)<br>

    The camera is quite close so I realize depth of field is limited. Could there be next to zero depth of field? Might shooting at f/32 do the trick?<br>

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken</p>

  4. <p>Greetings,<br>

    The rangefinder on my Weltur 645 needs to be adjusted.<br>

    The mechanism seems simple enough but I am not sure<br>

    as to what needs to be done. My guess is that it will need to<br>

    be calibrated at both infinity and close distance.<br>

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken</p>

     

  5. <p>'NESOP' (New England School of Photography), Boston. <br>

    Yes, you can learn everything on your own; websites, books, trial and error, etc. or you can cut to the chase and learn what you need, hands on, from professionals, at a photography school.<br>

    My wife attended in the late 80's and came out with more knowledge and experience than I acquired on my own in years. The one thing you can't get from websites and books is direct critique of your work in class from those in the profession. <br>

    My best<br>

    Ken</p>

  6. <p>Thank you for the replies....just what I was hoping for, particularly the 10x concentration. <br>

    I have tried a bunch of other glycin developers, Hubl paste included, but find Agfa 8 has the best tones for what I do (my usual developer is Rodinal...go figure). Since there is going to be some glycin left over, I am intending on giving GSD-10 a go.<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken<br>

    <a href="http://www.kjbruno.com">www.kjbruno.com</a></p>

  7. <p>Greetings,<br>

    Can AGFA 8 be mixed as a concentrated solution and then diluted for use? I have a batch of glycin that I would like to get into solution.<br>

    Formula for 1 liter stock:<br>

    Sod. Sulf. 12.5 g<br>

    Glycin 2g<br>

    Pot. Carb 25g<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken</p>

  8. <p>Hello...<br>

    Sorry for the delay.....have been away<br>

    Tim, the 10" lens doesn't present any problems? Are you able to close the camera or do you put the lens in once set up? My guess is that you don't bother using a rangefinder (?)<br>

    Willem, is the Symmar in a Copal shutter a reliable choice?<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken</p>

     

  9. <p>Greetings,<br>

    I am looking to repair or replace the tiny secondary mirror in my Bush Pressman (Bolex) Vue Focus rangefinder. Would anyone happen to know who might be able to do the repair or where I might find a replacement?<br>

    My best,<br>

    Ken</p>

  10. Strange as it may seem, the shutter speed on this camera has to be set before winding. Not sure why this is but it is. I shot a second roll of film where I set the shutter speed after winding and most, if not all of the exposures, are way off. So.........not sure what this all means . Maybe it was 'altered' for a reason some time ago or maybe it was just plain not put back together correctly!

    Regards,

    Ken

  11. Rob,

    The speed index marks line up perfectly before winding. They do not line up very well after the film has been wound. Being more than 50 years old, who knows what this camera has been through. I will have it fine tuned and maybe whoever gives it the once over can figure it out. The bottom line is that it seems to take good pictures and functions well (though I haven't shot at all speeds yet) with the rangefinder/viewfinder being clear and bright. Just sort of throws me off; I have to remember to set the shutter speed first before winding.

    My best,

    Ken

  12. Rob,

    Yes, the shutter stayed open until I let go of the button. When I wound the film and then set the shutter to 'B', it did not operate in this way.

    I just developed the film and the exposures are excellent. However, my instinct after making an exposure is to immediately advance the film to the next frame. This might be a problem here as it would seem that setting the shutter speed after would not be correct.

    When I shot this test roll, I made sure to set the shutter first before winding the film. Perhaps a second test is in order whereby I set the shutter speed after.

    My best,

    Ken

  13. Hmmm.........I set the shutter speed to 'B' both before and after winding the film. It worked as it should when set before, not after. This is contrary even to what the manual suggest. Could this indicate a problem?

    I greatly appreciate your replies.

    My best,

    Ken

  14. Greetings,

     

    Have recently noticed uneven lighting with stobe unit. The flash head is a

    Novatron and is approachig 17 years old. The flash (with diffusion) is square

    to the background which is usually evenly illuminated by the flash. Now there

    is more light to one side. Can flash tubes begin to fail and fire unevenly

    over time?

     

    My best,

    Ken

  15. I do understand that there are water molecules attached in each case (except anyhydrous). My concern is if there will be a difference in the performace of the developer when using the anhydrous form. Huble paste, for example, calls for crystal (sesquihydrate) and the amount needed would cost a small fortune on top of the glycin, so the anhydrous form is obviously much less costly. My understanding is that the crystal form is needed for buffering.

     

    Wouldn't the anhydrous eventually pick up water molecules anyway?

     

    My best,

    Ken

  16. Greetings,

     

    Is potassium monohydrate still produced??? Older glycin film developer

    formulas call for monohydrate and it is next to impossible to find. Hubl

    paste and FX-2 call for sesquihydrate which can be found though quite

    expensive. Question: will using potassium carbonate anhydrous have an impact

    on the performance of these developers?

     

    My best,

    Ken

  17. Greetings,

     

    Were both photos taken with the same aperture?

    The after photo seems as if it were taken with it wide open. Some lenses, particularly early lenses, are not too sharp wide open.

    The camera might be functioning as it should, but witout seeing a bunch of examples it's hard to determine.

     

    If it aint broke........

     

    Ken

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