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rog21

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Posts posted by rog21

  1. I expected that was the case. I don't own the 20-35, however I do have a 24 prime. My bag usually has the 24 2.8, 50 1.2L, 35-105 3.5 (usually on the T-90), 80-200 4.0L, a T-90 and a 300TL flash.

     

    My only other special lenses are a 50 3.5 macro with 25mm tube, a 135 2.0 (should also be an L IMHO), a 300 4.0, and a 500 4.5L, the latter two used for sports shooting mostly.

     

    I'm currently photographing all my FD equipment to prepare for eBay and the ultimate move to EOS. It's not an easy decision as I've shot FD since 1971 (my Dad's original F1 with motor, then I picked up an A1 when they came out) and I've never had a piece of FD equipment fail.

     

    However, I'm concerned that my T-90s and F1Ns (two of each) will be un-repairable sometime in the future.

  2. "I speak from experience. I used to own three L-series/high quality Canon FD zooms which covered 20mm to 200mm."

     

    I hate to be picky, but as a long time FD user I have to point out that there aren't three L series FD zoom lenses that cover this range...

     

    There is a 20-35 3.5L and an 80-200 4.0L, but nothing between save the 50-300 3.5L which still leaves a gap. Of course you may think the 35-105 3.5 should have been an L series and you wouldn't be alone there.

  3. Quote from Mark Erickson: "With an adapter ring, screw-mount Pentax lenses will work properly on bayonet-mount Pentax bodies (you must use stop-down metering, but the lenses will focus to infinity, unlike the Canon FD to EF converters)."

     

    A perfect example of someone spewing out facts when they're not in possession of them. Canon made two adaptors for FD to EOS. A FD-EOS Macro converter which loosely fits Mark's description (except it's designed to allow use of bellows and other macro gear and therefore doesn't have to focus to infinity) and the FD-EOS Converter which allows focus to infinity with any lens that can be mounted to it (mostly the longer lenses). These adaptors were available to working pros who presumably had a large investment in FD lenses (costly telephoto lenses in particular).

     

    Check it out at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/fdeos.htm#macro

  4. Well, I can't answer all your questions, but I can say something about the 80-200 f/4.0L. This lens is reputed to be one of the sharpest zooms lenses ever made by any manufacturer, sure the new AF versions are faster, but I don't think much sharper if at all. I also owned the 70-210 f/4.0 and sold it after the first roll I shot through the 80-200 f/4.0L, it simply blew the cheaper lens away. I've seen many shots taken with the 200 f/2.8 prime and I have to say I don't think the zoom will outperform it, but it may be equal. It is certainly better than the 85 f/1.8 and 135 f/2.8 at those focal lengths (IMHO). It even does a respectable job with close focus. To me, the color and sharpness of this lens couldn't get much better. Faster would have been nice though...

     

    Hans Martens has some good comments about this lens on his site at: http://www.wildpicture.com/

     

    These zooms are increasingly hard to come by, one just went on eBay for $537.00!, I paid $400.00 for mine and won't be selling it anytime too soon.

  5. I left this in the FD forum and it may seem a silly question but... Are you sure you have advanced the film all the way to the next frame? If not, the shutter will not cock or fire. The AE1 (and all A and F series) have multi-stroke advance levers, you can advance the film in multiple short strokes or one long stroke. I hope it's that simple...
  6. I discovered this weekend that my backup T-90 body has a loose mount. I don't use this body much, but I exercise the shutter periodically so avoid the EEE or flashing pointer problem (I've had it, this keeps it from happening). I used Robert's directions from above. Of course I don't have a 00 or 000 phillips and no local store seemed to either, so I found a site on the internet and ordered one of each. In my opinion, the 000 is too small though it will work. The 00 fit the screws perfectly. The entire process took me about 15 minutes and I had no problems at all. Thanks to all that posted instructions and their experiences here!
  7. KEH has one for $1079.00 which seems to be about the going price. It's reputed to be excellent, but not that many around. I've seen maybe three or four go through eBay in the last four years. I prefer to carry the 35-105 3.5 on my camera and have the 80-200 4.0L in the bag as well as a 24 2.8. The 50-300 4.5L sounds like a great lens, but I imagine it would be fairly large and heavy to lug around for general purposes.

     

    KEH Canon FD Zooms: http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?bid=CA&cid=07&sid=newused&crid=3607653

  8. If the lens was the new style FDn 100mm Macro, then the hood is a BT-52. I can't find specs on the old breech mount version, but it may have been a 55mm filter size, so the hood would be BT-55 for it. In either case, you may have trouble finding an original, but you should be able to buy an aftermarket telephoto hood at any local camera shop.
  9. Most local camera stores sell generic hoods. You would need a wide angle hood with the filter thread size of your lens. I'd just take the lens there and try one, make sure you zoom all the way to wide angle and check to make sure the hood is not interfering with the field of view.
  10. Try removing the battery and shoot a few exposures to see if the problem persists. If NOT, then either your "new" battery isn't so new, or the electromagnetic release is sticking and probably needs cleaning. If the problem is still there without the battery, you will have to have the shutter release serviced.

     

    Roger

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