ni-conartist

also, what do u mean by portrait mode? the f100 has no such mode. the n90s does but not the f100.

yes take the above advice. focusing sreens are a compltet b#%$* to clean. they are magnets for dust and sny type of solution. id just buy another one off ebay. i just bought one for my f100 new for 8 bucks.

well heres a salesman's perspective. i currently an a sales clerk (also in the middle of opening my own studio). you as a sales rep deal with all types. from the people who walk in with a platinum card and know jack shyt about photography but want to buy an F5 because they can. then slap a 28-300 zoom on it and wonder why their pictures still suck. i personally will sell people whatever they want. i initialy try and feel out customers. the problem is that sales people dont want you as a customer to waste their time. many people come in the store just to look at a camera then go order it of the internet. then they run back to you because the shady internet dealer took the usb canles and ac adapter out the box. then they look stupid when u tell them that the camera should have come with all the accesories theirs didnt. or the absolute worst is ive had customers come in my store, buy off the net, then have the stone nerve to ask me to help them work their camera. in fact ive been written up for refusing just that. you waste a hour of my time, dont buy the camea from me, then expect me to take my time to show you how to use it because your too stupid to read the instructions.

yes thanks, the latter method is fine for posed shots when i have the time. so i guess its just easier to subtract the amount from the flash that i added to the ambient exposure. thanks

yup, figured that..just wondered if i was missing something. thanks

because the exposure for the background and subject can be controlled independantly, thats how. thats the whole purpose of slow sync and "balanced fill flash". thats what the balanced part means. balancing the background exposure with the flash-lit sibject. for instance, when i shoot cityscapes at night i get the best results opening up 2 stops over the metered exposure. say i now want to ad a person in the forground to my cityscape shot. i want to over expose the background 2 stops. but i dont want the flash to over expose my subject 2 stops. see my dilema? the f100/sb80 combo will over expose both by setting the exposure compensation on the body, not only will it increase ambient exposure two stops but will also increase the flash output 2 stops as well. leaving a blown out subject. to overcome this i have to either select -1 stop on the flash's exposure compensation scale, or put the camera in manual and adjust my settings till i get a two stop overexposed reading. both of which will leave the flash to expose the subject in the proper 18% gray normal/average exposure.

while using the f100 and the sb80. ive noticed when using the camera

in slow sync mode to ensure proper background exposure...when i set

exposure compensation on the body it changes both on the body and the

flash. ive noted this by watching the distance scale change on the

flash while adjusting exposure compensation on the body. you can

adjust flash exposure compensation without affecting background

exposure(in slow sync mode), so why doesnt it work the other

wayaround. ?? i want to be able to overexpose my background(in slow

sync mode) while not over exposing my flash-lit subject. only way to

defeat this is to subtract the amount of compensation ive made on the

body from the flash. example: in slow sync i set plus one stop on the

body for the background, it also adds one stop to the flash exposure,

to combat this, i set -1 stop on the flash units own exposure

compensation setting.

 

any other easy way around this besides just throwing the camera in

manual and adjusting settings so the background exposure is one stop

over? why cant u set ambient exposure compensation without affecting

the flash output. very annoying.

 

never trust a Niconartist

is the woman hispanic?

chalk one up for film....more contrast range and detail recovery.

and why are you going digital to begin with. have u tried nikonians.org?

process as normal. your not push processing the film.

set your camera to 1/60 at f/8 and forget it. dont use slow sync your gonna get rediculously slow shutter speeds and get ghosting. AVOID SLOW SYNC FLASH. why people are telling u to do this is beyond me. when u set the f100 to slow sync it actually meters the ambient light in the room. if the room is very dark and your not using a high speed lens your asking for 1/4 sec exposures or longer. i do however agree with setting the iso at 320 for nph. actually just set your flash to +.o7... if u change the manually reset the iso, the camera wont reset it to the dx speed(the n80 will), and if you load another roll it can spell disaster if you use any other speed besides the nph 400.

then your answer is obivous. get the f100

your all assuming its a dslr. wouldnt all you people look dumbfounded if it was a film camera. id love to see you guy's faces. : )

 

 

but your right it is mos def a digicam. thats where all their r&d is going now.

the word is the sb80 dx is supposed to be user removable by just snipping the wimpy strap.

its a nice feature but nikon really maks it a pain in the ass to use. canon and minoltas high speed sync flash is so much easier to use and less of a hassle. theyre both fully auto also, u can even control output via flash exposure compensation. why nikon makes you jumps through hoops is beyond me.

why? looking at them on a computer monitor proves absolutely nada. test the lens in a store with e6 film.

n70 has a faster motor drive, brighter focusing screen, and supurb low light focusing. it also is constructed slighty better as well. aside fom that and the quirky control layout the features are "pretty much" identicle.

your photos will have a spot light effect. your flash meter meters incident light. which means the light actually hitting the subject. the flash meter in your camera reads relected light. 2 completely difeerent things. the flash meter will be alot more accurate. especially with a brude wearing white or a groom wearing black.

uh oh, i smell the "im switching to canon" stink arising. haha.

 

...one of the many reasons im not going digital. i dont wanna have to buy all new lenses just to get the focal lengths i have already. i do agree in id really like to give the 24-120 a whirl. then agin for you digi users its not really 24 anymore. more like a 35-135...how annoying.

well, you get what u pay for. theres a comparison of the 35-70 vs. the 28-70afs on the nikonians web site. it concludes optically they are pretty much dead even. the 3rd party lenses(sigma/tokina 28-70f/2.8) are good but not as good as the nikons wide open.

 

......got visa?

awesome, what film?

the 50 1.4 as well as the 28-105 nikkor is the best solution.

that site is put together by digital dead beats. the opening paragraph in the review caused me not to even read it.

lenses indeed can vary from sample to sample. especially zoom lenses. thats why i dont rely to heavily on pop photo lens tests as they only test 1 sample. your better off on a owner review site where many people offer input.