ni-conartist

actually BH currently lists it as "Discontinued"

nice shot, good color. the background although out of focus as it should be is still somewhat distracting. although im sure u had no way to really controll that

the qc issues were with (as always) early production models. one reason why i never buy new to the market cameras or cars. go buy a new f100 today and youll have years of reliabilty.

the sigma is an excellent lens optically. i use it almost daily. as well as the 28-70 ex df sigma. the nikon MAY be just a hair sharper. however the sigma provides excellent resolution even wid open. it also has the hsm motor. the main difference is the nikon has a little better build quality. as the lens is constructed of mostly metal. aside from that the sigma is an oustanding value and i highly recommend it for those who dont want to spend double te price for the nikkor.go to photography review.com or the nikonians.org and seek out commenst on this lens.

 

 

ps it comes with the hood, tripod collar, and a lovely case as well.

also, u dont need corner sharpnes if your shooting portrits

arnab.....simply supurb. a prime example of excellent technique. not to mention shot on film!

so i buy a sc-17 off camera cord for my f100/n80 to use on a

stroboframe bracket. 1 small problem, unlike canon, the sc-17 doesnt

have a plate on the bottom to slide into the mount ontop of the flash

bracket. how the hell do i mount the flash/sb-17 on my bracket!???????

hmmmm. personally if $1500 was burning a hole in my pockect, id buy more glass for my f110 and n80, or a pentax 6x7.

do u really need a dslr? id say save your money and get an n80 or f100. sounds like your just a casual snapshooter. if thats the case the d100 will overwhelm you. save your money for lenses. the nikon 28-105 is a good choice to start with.

ahh yes the DX coding. the f100 has a nasty habbit of not resetting the iso setting to "dx" if you have at some point chosen to override the dx sensing. if u go to reload another roll of film thats a different speed, the previous iso setting reamins..leading to dissaster. always rember to set the iso button back to "dx" if you ever override the film speed(ie push processing etc.)

title should be: parents and unborn children : )

supurb film that was.... R.I.P.

 

hello konica impresa..

you also may have set exposure compensation by mistake. even in manual mode, the f100 will meter for the amount of exposure comp dialed in. so if you have +1 set, the pics will be overexposed, even if in manual mode the meter scale is at 0.

what you have to understand also, is this camera really is intended as a photo j camera. meaning most of the photos will never be reproduced on photo paper, and will end up as low res newspaper pictures.

Supurb answer Frank.

 

 

 

i too like to relate photography to cars...my other passion.

yes, nikon dropped the ball on this feature. however lets stop the crying and buy a 5 dollar film lead retriver......case closed on another nikon "f" file.

thats funny, dont have that problem on my f100 and n80 bodies(snickering @ digital slr)..heh jk. guess you have to toy around like many others suggest or try the new sb that replaced the sb80dx. the model number eludes me at the momment

question. im working in a fairly small studio. im very interestd in

the alien bees. however, im not sure if i need the 400 or 800 watt

second models. from exprience, do i rally need the more expensive 800

ws model? im working on a tight budget. i plan to use 100 speed film

and bounce the lights off of silver umbrellas. will the 400's give me

enought working distance for comfortable portraits? for instance:

what f stop can i expect at say 10`, using umbrellas with 100 speed

film, and using a 2:1 lighting ratio?

hate to tell you this but the simple way around this.....rent a flash meter. also, put your sb's in manual mode. it will save you much grief.

get the n80

lol........

to eliminate that the error was yours in processign, shoot a roll of slide film instead, and have it processed commercially. make sure the iso is set correctly when you load it. also, try to compare your meter readings to other/another n90s

in response to the idiot comment by mr. katz ...here is the link i got the info from.

 

http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/mtbf.html

im sorry i forgot to use " " this was a copy n paste im not the auther of this statement i just posted it to get responses. yeah that part about losing 1/2 a stop evey 10k frames seemed funny.

 

i also realize youd need to test multiple samples. but still these things should still be fairly consistant. id guess out of 10 f100 bodies, at least 8 or 9 should see 100k cycles.

My main point concerns the report in the french photo

magazine "Chasseur d'image" about the EOS 3 shutter test (AP News 26

june) because it has been on the internet boards for some time and

has gone down like a lead balloon in most quarters.

 

At the time I could not understand why but I have since translated

that article and know why it has been kept quiet about, At least in

Canon circles.

 

 

Apparently, The article was really a testament to the Nikon shutter

because it was found that the shutter on the Nikon F100 failed after

130,000 operations, But kept accurate to within one third of a stop.

 

 

The Minolta Dynax 9 drifted after 50,000 frames by another one third

stop and failed after 80,000 frames.

 

 

The EOS 3 drifted after 70,000 by one half stop for every 10,000

frames thereafter and failed after 450,000.

 

 

The magazine concluded that the shutter on the EOS 3 would be

unusable after 110,000 operations due to excessive drift.

 

 

I think that's why Canon has stated 100,000 shutter use for its camera

def shoot at 800-1600. especially if having the film developed commercially. its def not a true 3200. if you do shoot at 3200 have the finisher push the film a stop