morocco

In the end, my camera was returned to full, normal functioning when Sherry Krauter replaced the circuit board (price was $248 as

mentioned above). I tried so many other things prior to the definitive fix. Erasers, new battery caps, sent to Sherry a first time but, when I

got it back, it still had the same problem though it was improved slightly... It just needed the new circuit board.

I have had an M6TTL for almost eight years - for the first 7 it performed flawlessly. Suddenly it began having problems with it's

exposure meter. Sometimes no red dot or arrows would come on despite a new battery. Then, at times, they would appear but would

not respond to my changes in aperture or shutter speed. Other times, the indicators would seem to be right on and responsive but

after taking a shot they would not disappear so I would have to turn the shutter speed dial to OFF to turn the indicators off. And then,

mysteriously, they would work flawlessly (like they just did on Thanksgiving). The next day, though, no lights at all (despite inserting a

brand new battery). It makes no sense.

 

It has been CLA'd by Sherry Krauter twice since 2003 without incident. It just had an additional visit with Sherry specifically for this

issue. At her workbench she could not replicate the problems I was having! She tested and cleaned contacts, etc. It worked

perfectly for her. Upon opening the return package a week ago it has variably worked well, work erratically, then not worked at all.

So it is behaving exactly the same as before the cleaning.

 

I have a good light meter. I have a good sense for exposure anyway. But I do not like having an M6 whose exposure indicators

aren't working properly.

 

Does anyone have an ideas as to what may be going on? Or suggestions for what I might do next?

 

Thank you in advance.

thank you richard

Is one easier than the other to color profile? i have an eye-one LT from greytag mcbeth. it seems that it shouldn't make a difference, but a search on this website produced some threads on some difficulty profiling the glossy screens.

what are most of you choosing for photo editing. i understand that neither

will be as good for critical editing as a desktop monitor. but those of you

with a macbook pro have had to choose one or the other, so which one and why?

 

i will be using it mainly for work that is unrelated to photo editing, but will

do some photo work as well.

 

thank you.

try this link and see if it helps: http://www.smugmug.com/help/skin-tone

yes, jeff. the linear artifacts are in the direction of the scan, the entire length of the scan. when i open the door, i can practically see tumbleweeds whirling about. until hearing from you i was preparing to send the unit to canon usa for cleaning/repair/replacement for the universal fee of $258.

 

please tell me what you've done. thanks.

 

bill.

i have a canoscan fs4000 that has served me well over the past 5 years. over

the past few months i have not used it very much and have not had a protective

cover. now my scans have streaks stretching across the whole image. it very

clearly is dust inside the machine (there is dust when i open up the door).

 

what is the best way to clean this? a canon usa service charge is estimated

at $258. or should i use a vacuum to suck out the dust? or a bottle of the

air spray stuff? or are there other 3d party repair shops to do this?

 

thanks for your help.

get the scanner. i have had it for 4 years without a problem. of course, get Vuescan (www.hamrick.com). another program that helps is NeatImage (www.neatimage.com), which decreases the grain artifact present when scanning negative film at such high dpi.

 

its a slow scanner, but its faster than mixing chemicals in a dust-free light tight room.

jorge,

 

its easier to find 11x17 or 13x19 papers than 11x14. my favorite non-epson papers have become the ilford galerie papers - in large part because they have free downloadable printer profiles at their website (and they have profiles for older printers). don't for get to download the files that tell you the printer settings to use with the color profile.

 

good luck.

i had spent 5 years afraid of color management. then, a few months back, i got a great deal on a pantone/gretag macbeth eye-one display LT at amazon ($114.89). simply put, it has saved me money and made my life easy... what i see on the screen really is what i get on the paper. get the eye-one display LT and you will be happy.

i've used the ilford profiles on my epson 1280 with great results. you don't just use the profile, though. be sure you've downloaded their instructions on what settings to use in the printer driver and processing program, too. for instance, i just printed on ilford matte paper - in the printer driver the instructions were to set the paper type to PHOTO QUALITY, intent PERCEPTUAL - in the processing program in print setup the instructions are to use the COLOR SPACE/PROFILE for the paper (you're probably doing this i suspect) and the intent RELATIVE CALORIMETRIC.

 

its an instrcution pdf, i think, that is right there when you dowload the profile.

i think its just the watermark, but i don't recall.

 

i should also say that the first tab, when advanced is clicked, doesn't say "multiscanning". it says "number of passes" i think.

 

it just works great.

i shoot color and black and white film. i am an avid amateur who

shoots roughly 100-150 rolls of film a year. since this is

expensive, and since i rarely want prints, i am trying to find

cheaper ways to develop my film. for instance, with c41 color, i've

found that i can have CVS develop for US$2.49 a roll, and 2 rolls

can fit on a picture cd for an additional $2.00 with index prints

($7.00 total for 2 rolls of 36 on a kodak picture cd).

 

black and white, on the other hand, is not handled by CVS. there is

a wonderful lab nearby with great capability, but a developed roll

of b&w is $18, while develop only is $10, without a cd or index

print.

 

so.... please give me a laundry list of items needed to process

film at home. i do have a film scanner, so i would like b&w

negatives which i can subsequently scan.

 

i shoot tri-x usually. what chemicals, equipment, etc, recommended

would be appreciated, and any links to kits would be appreciated,

too.

 

thank you.

for the first year that i had this scanner i used filmget. vuescan seemed to have too many options, and i did not always understand why i sometimes got good vuescans and sometimes bad. but, once dedicated to vuescan, i now achieve wonderful scans consistently. please, for your own sake, don't try to manage with filmget.

 

first, i recommend using vuescan with just basic settings. 16 bit, 4000dpi scans. in the color tab, if you don't find your exact film type, just choose generic. also in the color tab, auto white balance often gives good results. i look at the histogram and actually try to make sure there is minimal or no clipping at white or black (i adjust white point and black point in photoshop).

 

after you feel comfortable with these basic scans, your can start to do more advanced options. multisampling is covered under the first tab (i don't remember the tab's name, but its that same tab as where you choose dpi, bits, orientation and other basic things). you can choose the number of multiple passes, or long exposure pass. TO SEE THIS OPTION, YOU MUST GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TAB AND CHOOSE ADVANCED OPTIONS.

 

again, this is a wonderful scanner whose potential is better achieved through vuescan. i suspect silverfast would also be good, but it is aso expensive.

 

good luck. i'll check back here again if you have other questions.

i have had this scanner for over 3 years and have been very pleased with its scanning of slides, color negatives and black & white negatives.

 

i use vuescan, which takes some getting used to for very good results. but it does give very good results. i always scan at 4000 dpi in 16 bit mode, and no longer use multisampling and rarely long exposure pass.

 

i use neat image to clean the image of its film grain (the scanner is sharp enough that film grain becomes accentuated, showing as fine black specks). the scanner should not exist without neat image.

 

the more i use the scanner, the better i get. results that i thought were spectacular 2 years ago stink compared to what i can do now. i feel that any suboptimal results with this scanner are more a function of my inability to use the software and hardware that i have, rather than inherent limitations of the hardware or better choices for software.

stefan, at about the time you were typing your message i was actually just shutting down and rebooting, with and without the scanner on, with or without recognition of the scanner, in seemingly 10s of different permutations. inexplicably, all of a sudden, the scanner was recognized and is fully functional with the driver installed. what finally made things work? i have no idea. when it was recognized i had rebooted the computer with the scanner unattached, then plugging into the usb port allowed installation of the hardware and software (from the installation disk). i had tried this many times before.

 

i have a relative who says stuff like this never happens with a mac. is that true?

 

thank you all for your help.

 

bill

thanks for your responses so far.

 

what i realize now is that the scanner and usb cord are fine. the computer recognizes that there is new hardware installed. the problem is that i can not reinstall the driver from the disk that came with the scanner. i also can not reinstall the driver from the canon website. the new hardware wizard proceeds fine until the final files are being transferred, then stops and says it cannot complete installation. the device manager says SCANNER with a yellow caution and exclamation point, and that scanners properties say that no driver is installed.

 

so its a software problem. please, somebody, help!

 

thanks, again.

 

bill

first, a disclaimer. if someone knows of a better forum (photo or

computer) somewhere on the internet for this question, please let me

know. i have tried working with canon customer service, and have not

had resolution of this issue.

 

i have a canoscan fs4000 film scanner that has performed flawlessly

over the past 3 years. the computer is a dell dimension 4300 running

windows xp. when i unplugged the scanner from one usb port and

switched it to another usb port the computer no longer recognized the

scanner. these were not hub ports, they were right on the computer.

i tried the new hardware wizard. i tried unistalling the hardware.

i tried installing the hardware from disk, from the previous file,

from a dowladed canon internet file. THE DRIVER WILL NOT REINSTALL.

i tried unistalling then unplugging, unplugging then unistalling,

turning the computer on with the scanner on, or off, plugged, or

unplugged, etc etc etc.

 

i assume this has happed to someone else experienced in the digital

darkroom. please help, or lead me to someplace that can help.

 

thanks you.

i use mainly color negative film, though i also shoot slide film and

black and white negative films. i scan them using vuescan on my

canon fs4000 scanner.

 

if i create a scanner profile using a wolf faust IT8 velvia 100f

target, what happens if i apply this profile while scanning color

negative film?

 

since the majority of what i scan is color negative, i'm trying to

figure out if there is anything i can do to make this process better

(in terms of original scan quality, time spent in photoshop color

correcting, etc.)

 

if i shouldn't apply a velvia slide profile to color negative

scanning, has anyone used vuescans film profiling function? if so,

how well does it work?

 

thanks again.

i suspect my understanding of scanner color profiling is too

simplistic. the purpose of profiling is to compensate for the

difference between the RGB color values my scanner sees versus what

those RGB values should be as per the target file. so the specific

profile for my scanner evaluates the DIFFERENCE between these

values. why does it matter if i use a fuji target or a kodak or

wolf faust target? even though these targets may have slightly

different colors or RGB values, what matters is not their values but

how those values compare to what the scanner sees.

 

i suspect i'm missing something, so please enlighten me. be kind.

 

maybe i just don't want to spend so much money on a ektachrome

target and a fuji velvia 50 target and a velvia 100f/100/astia 100f

target and a agfa target...

 

thanks, bill.

through searching photo.net, i understand the importance of creating

a profile for my film scanner (canoscan fs4000). i scan some

slides, but mainly color and black and white negatives. i have read

in many sources that it is difficult or impossible to have a color

managed environment with negatives. so...

 

if i create a canoscan 4000 profile using a kodak ektachrome IT8

target, is this profile only applicable to the specific film type,

or should/could it also be used for scanning negatives or other

makers slide film (with improvement over using no profile)?

 

digital light and color has available on their website

their "standard" profile for the canoscan 4000 (without reference to

how they generated this profile). should this be used for all my

film type?

 

i use vuescan to scan my film. with vuescan you may create and use

a scanner profile AND ALSO you can create and use a film profile. i

film couldn't be part of a color managed workflow, no?

 

somebody, please help clear this up.

 

thank you.

i was surprised to see a pigmented color inkset for the epson 1280.

has anyone tried it, and, if so, how does it compare to the original

epson ink in terms of initial color/gamut? how have the prints fared

ove time?

 

thank you.

i have an epson 1280 printer running epson ink. i also have crane

museo 2 and moab entrada (300gsm) papers recently purchased.

 

the web sites (crane and moab)have dowloadable icc profiles for

epson's newer printers with these papers, but nothing for the 1280.

 

i understand that there are a number of places that could create a

custom profile for my printer/ink/paper combination, but i just

received these papers and am not sure i even like them yet.

 

does anyone have basic recommendations for printing on these papers?

for instance, should i click colorlife or premium glossy or something

else for my these papers? i'm just trying to save some time and

paper.

 

thanks

on amazon.com you can get the pantone eye-one lt for $84.99 ($114.99 on sale, with $30 off per the amazon.com credit card offer)

 

i think it should simply offer more than the huey, but i certainly would like to hear impressions of either.