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larry_miller5

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Posts posted by larry_miller5

  1. Not sure if you're still looking two years on but as I stumbled upon your question about the K3 relative to the K2 screen in my own search for advice on the matter, and the fact someone else has got away with utter dribble about 'the brighter the screen, the worse the manual focusing' I thought I'd add that the K3 screen works very well, is noticeably clearer and therefore gives the impression of being brighter and that focussing is therefore less stressful and quicker too. The black outer circle seems more pronounced than with the K2 but it might be simply in starker contrast now the screen itself is brighter. No exposure adjustment required for the meter, on the FA at least and so presumably for all cameras that it fits.

     

    a_tonkin, I totally agree with you regarding brighter screens DO NOT make manual focusing worse. I've got a B3 screen on my FE2 and have no problem with manual focusing. I had a B2 on it and switched. It's perfect!!!

  2. <p>Hopefully your F3 is still working fine and you paid close attention to what Lex Jenkins, Todd Peach & David Hartman said. They know their stuff. I have both cameras. The F3/T with a DE-2 finder and the F2/T with a DE-1 finder. Love them both and as someone mentioned, "they will probably outlive me".</p>
  3. <p>"Back then Nikon recommended roughly doubling or halving focal length when adding lenses".<br>

    Interesting Dan. That's exactly what I did. I shoot with a 20mm, a 40mm and an 85mm. All cover quite a bit in different photo situations. To this day I think that advice is still note-worthy.</p>

  4. <p>Me personally, if my titanium shutters go out on the FE2, I would replace them with the aluminum shutters. I like the FE2 that much to not be able to use it. I do have the aluminum shutters on my FM2N and they have seemed to operate correctly over the years. My F2 & F3 naturally have titanium shutters and supposedly they're good for many thousands and thousands of firings. So, I could do either type of shutter for my cameras. </p>
  5. <p>Both are excellent cameras. I go back and forth with each of them. If I'm doing landscape where nothing is moving, it's the F2. If I'm doing festivals or maybe sports where there's movement, it's the F3. Love them both.</p>
  6. <p>I'll revisit it here. I still think the F2AS first then the F3HP. I always worry about that circuit board going out on the F3 when I'm out on a shoot or the LCD starting to "bleed". Maybe it's nothing to worry about but the thought is always there. I mainly use the F2 for landscape work and the F3 when I'm shooting some kind of action where aperture priority comes in to play.</p>
  7. <p>What Jeff Loughlin said. "Some lenses just have less contrast than others, and maybe the 24mm AiS is one of them". I've always believed that about the 24mm Nikkor. I've never been impressed with that lens and have tried two of them (F2 AIS & F2.8 AIS). Sold them both and went back to my late 28 F2 AIS with SIC. Big difference in picture quality! Too much flare in the 24mm F2.8 and not enough sharpness in the 24mm F2.</p>
  8. <p>Yep, Roy that Voightlander 40mm Ultron is one heck of a lens. It's so sharp it could cut paper. I really like the 40mm length rather than the 50mm. Much more. These days I carry three lenses only. The late 20mm F2.8 AIS, the 40mm Voigt and the Nikkor 85mm F1.8 AF-D. All, in my opinion are very sharp and contrasty. The publications I shoot for demand shots with quality in them.</p>
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