ken_heflinger2

Tri-X comes in two flavors for roll film. TXP ISO 320 and TX ISO 400.

I have graphed the TXP and found it has a longer toe than HP5+. Sheet

film comes in the TXT varity that .. according to Kodak's graphs has a

very long toe (at least as long as TXP).

<p>

Ken

Robert,

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I just use a small soda straw as a pipette and "suck out" just a

little for the tank. My water here is pretty clean so I don't bother

with distilled water.

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I found that mixed photoflo goes bad .. and eventually smells.

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Ken

Yes .. you must remove the paper backing from the film. It is attached

with tape at one location. Simply turn out the lights, unroll the film

and suddenly you will feel the film and the paper, they will seperate

quite easily. Roll the film onto the spool and CUT the film where the

tape is.

<p>

Ken

I think you are getting confused with the DIN number. The number

following the ISO 400/nn is the DIN number which is a number

that represents the speed of the film in the same was as the

ISO number except that it is a log scale.

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ISO 100 = DIN 21

ISO 200 = DIN 24

ISO 400 = DIN 27

ISO 800 = DIN 30

ISO 1600 = DIN 33

ISO 3200 = DIN 36

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The DIN numbers increase 3 for every factor of two in ISO.

<p>

This number has nothing to do with the "temperature of the film."

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They put these numbers on because some light meters are calibrated

in the DIN numbers. It makes it easier to compute because adding

or subtracting a stop is just simple addition .. the beauty of

logrighms.

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I am not sure about the too cold question. I suspect that 38F is fine

as long as the film has not been opened, and that you take the proper

amount of time to let it come to room temperature before opening it.

<p>

Somebody else might know wheather or not 38F is too cold or not.

<p>

Ken

You might check out this web site.

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http://www.agfaphoto.com/library/bwcourse/index.html

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Scroll down to the lessions. You will find some step by step

directions there.

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If you can find a local colledge that offers a beginning course in B&W

processing you should give it a try. Generally it is cheaper because

you don't have to buy equipment and chemicals.

<p>

Have fun, and enjoy learning.

<p>

Ken

I use to use a squeegee and photo-flo .. scratches resulted.

<p>

Now I use photo-flo and use my fingers as the squeegee .. just

lightly. No scratches anymore. Sometimes I don't use my fingers (thats

when I have more time to try).

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Ken

I tried to graph the H&D curve for the stuff .. and the curve has a

big early sholder. It would appear that the straight part of the curve

only goes for about 2.5 on the log scale, and the sholder is pretty

strong. My measurent may be missed up because of the yellow tint, but

I checked it with two meters.

<p>

On the other hand the graphs from Kodak show that TMX with TMAX

developer has a rather straight curve for more than 2.5 on the log

scale.

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Conrad, you said that you abandon TMX .. so what did you select

instead?

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My original reason for swithching to TMX was that APX 100 and APX 400

is often out of stock at my local store. So I thought I would try

something that the store has tons of... TMX. Just wanted to know what

you adopted as an alternative.

<p>

Ken

Thanks guys for the input. I am dissapointed in XTOL.

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I did try one more time .. increased time and temperture and got

a contrast index if 0.50 (tried for 0.75).

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Kodak indicates that the brown (yellow) tint is due to insufficent

fixing. Does this ring true?

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Ken

I just tried XTOL with TMX film. I developed it at 70 degrees, 1:1, for 8 min expecting a contrast index of 0.52. My negatives have a very low contrast index (about 0.35) and they are "brown" compared to other developers.

<p>

My question: Is this normal for XTOL (Brown and clear)?

Why is the contrast so low?

<p>

Does XTOL replace the silver with a brown dye? If so .. then what is the execpted life of a negative developed in XTOL in years?

<p>

Thanks

Ken