jon_porter

<p>If you're concerned about the reviews, just buy from Adorama or Cameta. Same prices. But I wouldn't put much faith in online reviews.</p>

<p>Bronica backs, and ETRC bodies, both accept the same 120 and 220 film inserts. I've never done it, but you should be able to shoot 120 film on a 220 film insert. You'll probably just have to shoot a few blank frames after you've finished the 120 roll to be sure the protective paper is covering the film.</p>

<p>I occasionally used that lens on my D3200 and it was fine for 8.5x11 prints. </p>

<p>A "factory" AI job was actually done by Nikon's service centers, which in the U.S. was EPOI (predecessor of NikonUSA). An AI CONVERSION involves changing the aperture ring. An AI MODIFICATION means the old aperture ring has been cut back. Some of these "chop jobs" are done better than others but typically they all work. A Nikon-converted lens looks better, though, so generally sells for a little more.</p>

<p>One of the nice things about the SQ-Ai is that there's a B setting on the shutter speed dial so you don't have to use the somewhat awkward setting on the lens for long exposures. If you have good batteries in the camera the shutter will stay open as long as you hold the shutter or cable release. </p>

<p>67mm is the filter size; you're referring to the 65mm wide-angle, which is equal to a 35mm lens on a 35mm camera. A good choice for close-ups is the 110mm, which is available as an f/4 or a closer focusing (and more expensive) f/4.5. The MF Finder S is a waist level viewfinder with metering. Tamron offers several useful documents on the Bronica systems:<br> https://www.tamron.co.jp/en/data/bronica/bronica2.html</p>

<p>Yes</p>

<p>All you need is a 120 film insert; the backs are the same for 120 and 220.</p>

<p>I've had both the SQ-A and two SQ-Ai bodies, but currently have the SQ-B. I would take the SQ-Ai over the SQ-A since it's newer and more versatile. The only thing I hated about the SQ-Ai was that it uses four button batteries instead of the standard 6V battery like other 120 SLRs. I had numerous problems with this in the first body but less problems with the second. <br> I have a waist-level finder but never use it (it came with one of my bodies). I only use the plain prism. I had the metered SQ-i prism briefly but didn't like the added bulk, so went back to the plain prism. But I did like that it offered an adjustable diopter.<br> The speed grip is only necessary when a flash shoe is needed. It adds a lot of weight and bulk to the camera and you have to remove the winding crank and hopefully not misplace it -- note the SQ bodies for sale on eBay without a crank. Worse, it uses a clunky mechanical shutter release that is very easy to accidentally trip when you're focusing the lens or stuffing the camera into a bag.<br> I've had six Bronica bodies, including the 645 and 6x7 models, and a dozen lenses all bought used and never had any trouble with them. I also have a Hasselblad 501 and actually prefer the handling of the Bronica.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I've had a D3000 and D3200 for times I didn't feel like hauling my D700 and bulkier lenses around. I can't say whatever difference in viewfinder brightness bothered me as much as the difference in viewfinder size. The smaller, almost tunnel-like viewfinders on the lower-end cameras took a little getting used to, plus it was more difficult to manually focus lenses without relying on the focus confirmation light. For that reason, as well as to gain support for mechanical autofocus, I just sold the D3200 and plan to buy a D7100 once the Christmas pricing begins.</p>

<p>Yes, since the 6x7 is a much larger negative. I don't own a Contax but I have a Mamiya M645 and 80mm f/1.9 and for shooting wide open I prefer the Pentax. BTW, the 105mm is an f/2.4.</p>

<p>I've owned the Mamiya M645 1000S and TL Pro, plus the Pentax 645N and don't remember one camera's prism viewfinder being noticeably brighter than the others, but then I didn't own the cameras concurrently. Both systems offered several f/2.8 lenses, so that also helped with manual focus. The Pentax has a focus indicator in the viewfinder and optional beep to indicate focus, but I found that a little distracting; I never owned any AF lenses for it. I prefer the Mamiya's split-image/microprism focusing screen for manual focus. Pentax did offer a microprism focusing screen for the 645N, but in all the time I owned mine I was never able to find one on eBay, KEH or anywhere else.<br /> <br /> If you're considering the original manual-focus Pentax 645 (I wouldn't), Ken Rockwell in his review of it called the viewfinder dim. I suspect the finder brightness was increased on the 645N to support autofocus.</p>

<p>Using the AF-ON button is much better than having the shutter release activate AF, especially with AF-S lenses. Focus tracking is indeed wonderful. Set your camera to continuous AF, then press and hold the AF-ON button to lock focus on your subject. As your subject moves, the camera's focus points will follow. I use this all the time on trains with my ancient D700 and it works fine generally. With the D810, follow focus should be exceptional.</p>

<p>A friend of mine uses the 35-70mm quite a bit with his D800 and his results are impressive. I had one when I got my D700 and was also satisfied with the results. But I sold it for what I paid for it when I switched to the 24-85mm, since VR, AFS and a wider zoom range were more important to me than the constant f/2.8 aperture.</p>

<p>You're comparing the wrong feature between the D3300 and the D7100. Any differences between their sensors is inconsequential. The advantage of the D7100 is it's pentaprism viewfinder and support of mechanical autofocus and AI metering.</p>

<p>I've got that camera and it's a honey -- manual, mechanical and no battery. It's also lightweight and easy to hand-hold. I last used it to shoot vintage aircraft, which was appropriate since the planes were probably first photographed by military Kodak Medalist 6x9 cameras.</p>

<p>Joe is correct. You can also trip the shutter after advancing the crank several turns. Take Joe's advice and download the manual. That isn't a suggestion, it's a requirement. 120 cameras aren't intuitive to use and can be damaged if a user isn't familiar with a new camera.</p> <p>One thing to watch for with old Mamiyas is erratic frame spacing. I only get 13 frames on my 1000s, so I waste the last two exposures to finish a roll. This is annoying, since I have to keep track of my exposures, but at least none of the frames overlap. Once frames start overlapping the camera is pretty much unusable, and the cost to get that repaired can be more than the camera cost.</p>

<p>The best 120 camera I've had for travel, especially by air, was the Fuji GA645Zi. It has a useful 55-90mm retractable zoom lens, auto focus/exposure/advance, even a pop-up flash. And it gives you 16 exposures per roll. It's a very compact and light camera to carry while traveling and gives excellent results.</p>

<p>Last summer I took my D700 with 20-35mm f/2.8 and 28-300mm on vacation to Wisconsin. I regretted taking those heavy and bulky 77mm lenses by the time I'd walked through the airports on my way there. As Kent said, the more you have to carry the less enjoyable a day of walking around becomes. If I had it to do over, I would have just taken my 24-85mm and maybe a small prime since the majority of my shots were taken in that range.</p>