john_collier5
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Posts posted by john_collier5
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Wax in the adjusting screws. If they glued it into place they would
have to change very expensive parts everytime it needed
tweaking.
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No, there are no limits except physical. Professionals commonly
care hundreds of rolls with no problem.
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You can only scale focus the lenses as there is no rangefinder
coupling.
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Is it the horizontal alignment or the vertical alignment that is off?
If the camera's alignment is fine with other lenses (many not just
one other) then you will have to have the lens adjusted. Test with
film first to make sure that the lens does not need collmination. It
is a simple to adjust the finder if you feel competent with tiny
screw drivers. Let me know and I will post instructions and
schematics.
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I had my first one overhauled and adjusted to be very quiet. Much
quieter than my old F3/MD-4 combo. The next one I will do myself
following these instuctions:
<p>
<a href="http://www2.bitstream.net/~campbell/">
http://www2.bitstream.net/~campbell/</a>
<p>
I mostly use my RapidWinders but there are times when only a
powered winder will do. I like the Winder-M and have been happy
with mine. Do not sell it until the above adjustments are done.
Always remember to only use it as a single shot device below
1/50.
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The chrome stopped in 1961 but the E41 mount continued until
1966. Serial number 2166701 and up are the new mount with no
filter threads.
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Many people have tried the same thing and have been equally
unsuccessful; however, no one has damaged their camera or
flash.
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Yes it is an M lens. You cannot get adapters that will work
because the back focus of the M camera is much shorter than a
Canon.
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Boring average as always...42
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And do not forget that with some winder/motor and camera
combinations, everything is just fine. Thanks for the heads up on
not keeping your finger down with the Motor-M...not that it causes
any problems. :-)
<p>
I often sound pretty down on the winders but actually I am not. I
have two Winder-M4-Ps (the last one I bought for $86US) and
two RapidWinders. I will admit that the RWs see a great deal
more use but that is weight issue more than anything else.
<p>
I post warnings on the winders and motors because we all tend
to take advantage of the M's ability to shoot slow speeds and that
is where problems can arise. Believe it or not (can he be that
stupid!) I first found out about the problem when using
continuous and 1/15! Needless to say that assignment had to be
reshot.
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PS: The official Leica position is that there are no problems and
there never were any problems. :-)
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I cannot comment directly on the Motor-M as I never bought one.
However the mechanism in the Motor and M6-TTL is essentially
unchanged form the Winder and earlier bodies. The shutter fires,
completes its cycle and releases the shutter winding mech. The
released shutter winding mech allows the Motor to turn kicking in
a high power mode. The shutter winding mech completes its
cycle and locks again. This stops the Motor and triggers a low
power idling phase. That is all there is to it really.
<p>
Unfortunately, the M camera was never really designed to be
motorised. All mechanical cameras had problems
synchronising their cameras and motors together. With the F
and F2, Nikon did not recommend the use of the motor below
the flash sync speed and had different shutter ranges that could
be used depending on the speed selected for the Motor.
<p>
What the M needs is a simple electric switch that does not allow
the motor to work until the shutter has completed its cycle. On
some cameras, especially at speeds slower than 1/50, the
motor starts winding before the shutter is finished its cycle. I am
sure these cameras can be adjusted and readjusted as
required but you still cannot get around the fact that it is a bit of
cobbled together system.
<p>
The problems were legion with the Winder-Ms and I am afraid to
say that I have heard reports from Motor-M users too that are not
encouraging. So if you do not want to have any problems period,
only use it in continuous with speeds 1/50 or faster. When using
slower speeds, use the Motor/Winder as a single shot device
and keep that release depressed until the shutter has
completely cycled.
<p>
I come by my advice the hard way, and I heard it from an official
Leica tech who did not minced his words.
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A very good question and the answer is probably. On some
cameras the winding mechanism is released before the shutter
has fully complete its cycle. This gives results similar to shutter
bounce and can damage the shutter. If you must use a
Winder/Motor-M at speeds slower than 1/50, hold the release
down until the shutter cycle is complete. The winding
mechanism will not be able to work until you lift your finger.
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Here is a manual for a M4-P online:
<p>
<a
href="http://members.fortunecity.com/canoneos/manuals/leicam
4p.html">
http://members.fortunecity.com/canoneos/manuals/leicam4p.ht
ml</a>
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Three, one around the neck and one off each shoulder. I usually
only carry one but if I am doing a photo project then all three
cameras get used.
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Sorry about the dead links, here they are again:
<p>
<a href="http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.html">
http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.html</a>
<p>
<a
href="http://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photogra
phy.html">
http://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photography.ht
ml</a>
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Many older photobooks came with DOF tables for the various
focal lengths. You could also buy small pocketbooks or cards
with the info as well. A quick look at card seems a great deal
easier than carring a calculator. Here are some links to card
sized DOF calculators:
<p>
<a href="http://www.konermann.net/dof.guide.html">
http://www.konermann.net/dof.guide.html</a>
<p>
<a href="http://fotosharp.safeshopper.com/4/4.htm?453">
http://fotosharp.safeshopper.com/4/4.htm?453</a>
<p>
<a href="http://www.execpc.com/~gbonsack/dofad.htm">
http://www.execpc.com/~gbonsack/dofad.htm</a>
<p>
<a href="http://www.photocritique.net/dof.html">
http://www.photocritique.net/dof.html</a>
<p>
And some online DOF calculators:
<p>
<a href="http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.htmlk">
http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.html</a>
<p>
<a
href="hhttp://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photogr
aphy.html">
http://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photography.ht
ml</a>
<p>
<a href="http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/dofcalc.htm">
http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/dofcalc.htm</a>
<p>
<a
href="http://www.peternorquist.com/technotes/photo_calcs.html"
>
http://www.peternorquist.com/technotes/photo_calcs.html</a>
<p>
<a href="http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html">
http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html</a>
<p>
<a href="http://www.kaeri.re.kr/photo/lecture/hyperfocal.html">
http://www.kaeri.re.kr/photo/lecture/hyperfocal.html</a>
<p>
You might want to check out the FotoSharp Depth of Field Guide,
© 1995 by Robert J. McCabe, available from KBR Enterprises,
telephone(206) 248-1840. It has a depth of field guide for 35 mm
format lenses from 20 mm to 100 mm in all of the popular focal
lengths. It appears to use a fairly conservative CoC (I'd guess
.025 mm). It is in a slide rule form, about 4" x 81/2", and includes
an Action Stopping Shutter Speed Guide on the back side.
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Read it out of the manual:
<p>
<a
href="http://members.fortunecity.com/canoneos/manuals/leicam
4p1617.jpg">
http://members.fortunecity.com/canoneos/manuals/leicam4p161
7.jpg</a>
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With the RW, you can wind on with one finger if need be and
have fingers free to turn a focusing ring without tab. I was just
doing that today with my 90/2AA.
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Turn the camera to a 45 degree angle, it wil now be easy to
focus on the markers.
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It would help if you could pin down your location on the planet. My
favourite Leica tech is Gerry Smith of Kindermann Canada. Here
is a site with his contact info as well as that of other
recommended techs:
<p>
<a href="http://nemeng.com/leica/#007e">
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There are two different designs of the Winder-M and two different
styles of the later design.
<p>
The first Winder M4-2 up to serial number 10349 is a single shot
device. It uses a protruding pin shaft to switch on the winder
cycle. The M4-2 and M4-P (except for serial numbers
1552500-1552884 and 1563000-1588536 which can be
adapted) cameras have a corresponding shaft attached to the
shutter release which triggers the winder. The camera needs to
be adjusted so that the winder is only triggered after the shutter
has been released. They had a great deal of trouble with getting
this synchronisation right and horrified testers said: "Great
camera, do not get the winder!" I would be leary about using this
winder on multiple cameras. The winder body has a removable
battery pack which can be hooked up remotely with the
appropriate cord. This winder will not work on a M6.
<p>
Winder M4-2 with serial numbers of 10350 and up are
functionally identical to the Winder M4-P and Winder-M. It,
however, still has the same removable battery back which the
later winders dropped. These winders can function continuously
but, regardless of what Leica says, I would only use continuous
with speeds of 1/50 and faster.
<p>
I know of several Winder M4-2 continuous selling for around
$125US. The early Winder M4-2 can sometimes be found for
much less!
<p>
My advice would be to buy a RapidWinder. It works on all the
M4-2 and up cameras with no troubles.
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On the camera of course?! I never take mine off but if you do, and
you like grips, Tom A.'s Rapidgrip has a threaded hole to mount
your SoftRelease on when you are not using it. It would also be
very simple to glue on your strap a piece of plastic with an
appropriate sized hole. The SoftRelease has a tapered thread
so the hole size need not be exact.
M3 DS shutterspeeds
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
The older Leica-Meters had the same shutter speed scale as
the early M3DS. You could probably swap parts to convert a
newer one. The early DS also have one less speed than the later
ones.