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john_collier5

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Posts posted by john_collier5

  1. Is it the horizontal alignment or the vertical alignment that is off?

    If the camera's alignment is fine with other lenses (many not just

    one other) then you will have to have the lens adjusted. Test with

    film first to make sure that the lens does not need collmination. It

    is a simple to adjust the finder if you feel competent with tiny

    screw drivers. Let me know and I will post instructions and

    schematics.

  2. I had my first one overhauled and adjusted to be very quiet. Much

    quieter than my old F3/MD-4 combo. The next one I will do myself

    following these instuctions:

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www2.bitstream.net/~campbell/">

    http://www2.bitstream.net/~campbell/</a>

     

    <p>

     

    I mostly use my RapidWinders but there are times when only a

    powered winder will do. I like the Winder-M and have been happy

    with mine. Do not sell it until the above adjustments are done.

    Always remember to only use it as a single shot device below

    1/50.

  3. And do not forget that with some winder/motor and camera

    combinations, everything is just fine. Thanks for the heads up on

    not keeping your finger down with the Motor-M...not that it causes

    any problems. :-)

     

    <p>

     

    I often sound pretty down on the winders but actually I am not. I

    have two Winder-M4-Ps (the last one I bought for $86US) and

    two RapidWinders. I will admit that the RWs see a great deal

    more use but that is weight issue more than anything else.

     

    <p>

     

    I post warnings on the winders and motors because we all tend

    to take advantage of the M's ability to shoot slow speeds and that

    is where problems can arise. Believe it or not (can he be that

    stupid!) I first found out about the problem when using

    continuous and 1/15! Needless to say that assignment had to be

    reshot.

  4. I cannot comment directly on the Motor-M as I never bought one.

    However the mechanism in the Motor and M6-TTL is essentially

    unchanged form the Winder and earlier bodies. The shutter fires,

    completes its cycle and releases the shutter winding mech. The

    released shutter winding mech allows the Motor to turn kicking in

    a high power mode. The shutter winding mech completes its

    cycle and locks again. This stops the Motor and triggers a low

    power idling phase. That is all there is to it really.

     

    <p>

     

    Unfortunately, the M camera was never really designed to be

    motorised. All mechanical cameras had problems

    synchronising their cameras and motors together. With the F

    and F2, Nikon did not recommend the use of the motor below

    the flash sync speed and had different shutter ranges that could

    be used depending on the speed selected for the Motor.

     

    <p>

     

    What the M needs is a simple electric switch that does not allow

    the motor to work until the shutter has completed its cycle. On

    some cameras, especially at speeds slower than 1/50, the

    motor starts winding before the shutter is finished its cycle. I am

    sure these cameras can be adjusted and readjusted as

    required but you still cannot get around the fact that it is a bit of

    cobbled together system.

     

    <p>

     

    The problems were legion with the Winder-Ms and I am afraid to

    say that I have heard reports from Motor-M users too that are not

    encouraging. So if you do not want to have any problems period,

    only use it in continuous with speeds 1/50 or faster. When using

    slower speeds, use the Motor/Winder as a single shot device

    and keep that release depressed until the shutter has

    completely cycled.

     

    <p>

     

    I come by my advice the hard way, and I heard it from an official

    Leica tech who did not minced his words.

  5. A very good question and the answer is probably. On some

    cameras the winding mechanism is released before the shutter

    has fully complete its cycle. This gives results similar to shutter

    bounce and can damage the shutter. If you must use a

    Winder/Motor-M at speeds slower than 1/50, hold the release

    down until the shutter cycle is complete. The winding

    mechanism will not be able to work until you lift your finger.

  6. Many older photobooks came with DOF tables for the various

    focal lengths. You could also buy small pocketbooks or cards

    with the info as well. A quick look at card seems a great deal

    easier than carring a calculator. Here are some links to card

    sized DOF calculators:

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.konermann.net/dof.guide.html">

    http://www.konermann.net/dof.guide.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://fotosharp.safeshopper.com/4/4.htm?453">

    http://fotosharp.safeshopper.com/4/4.htm?453</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.execpc.com/~gbonsack/dofad.htm">

    http://www.execpc.com/~gbonsack/dofad.htm</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.photocritique.net/dof.html">

    http://www.photocritique.net/dof.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    And some online DOF calculators:

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.htmlk">

    http://www.outsight.com/hyperfocal.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a

    href="hhttp://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photogr

    aphy.html">

    http://www.reftools.com/reftools/Arts/Photography/Photography.ht

    ml</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/dofcalc.htm">

    http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/dofcalc.htm</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a

    href="http://www.peternorquist.com/technotes/photo_calcs.html"

    >

    http://www.peternorquist.com/technotes/photo_calcs.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html">

    http://www.dudak.baka.com/dofcalc.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    <a href="http://www.kaeri.re.kr/photo/lecture/hyperfocal.html">

    http://www.kaeri.re.kr/photo/lecture/hyperfocal.html</a>

     

    <p>

     

    You might want to check out the FotoSharp Depth of Field Guide,

    © 1995 by Robert J. McCabe, available from KBR Enterprises,

    telephone(206) 248-1840. It has a depth of field guide for 35 mm

    format lenses from 20 mm to 100 mm in all of the popular focal

    lengths. It appears to use a fairly conservative CoC (I'd guess

    .025 mm). It is in a slide rule form, about 4" x 81/2", and includes

    an Action Stopping Shutter Speed Guide on the back side.

  7. There are two different designs of the Winder-M and two different

    styles of the later design.

     

    <p>

     

    The first Winder M4-2 up to serial number 10349 is a single shot

    device. It uses a protruding pin shaft to switch on the winder

    cycle. The M4-2 and M4-P (except for serial numbers

    1552500-1552884 and 1563000-1588536 which can be

    adapted) cameras have a corresponding shaft attached to the

    shutter release which triggers the winder. The camera needs to

    be adjusted so that the winder is only triggered after the shutter

    has been released. They had a great deal of trouble with getting

    this synchronisation right and horrified testers said: "Great

    camera, do not get the winder!" I would be leary about using this

    winder on multiple cameras. The winder body has a removable

    battery pack which can be hooked up remotely with the

    appropriate cord. This winder will not work on a M6.

     

    <p>

     

    Winder M4-2 with serial numbers of 10350 and up are

    functionally identical to the Winder M4-P and Winder-M. It,

    however, still has the same removable battery back which the

    later winders dropped. These winders can function continuously

    but, regardless of what Leica says, I would only use continuous

    with speeds of 1/50 and faster.

     

    <p>

     

    I know of several Winder M4-2 continuous selling for around

    $125US. The early Winder M4-2 can sometimes be found for

    much less!

     

    <p>

     

    My advice would be to buy a RapidWinder. It works on all the

    M4-2 and up cameras with no troubles.

  8. On the camera of course?! I never take mine off but if you do, and

    you like grips, Tom A.'s Rapidgrip has a threaded hole to mount

    your SoftRelease on when you are not using it. It would also be

    very simple to glue on your strap a piece of plastic with an

    appropriate sized hole. The SoftRelease has a tapered thread

    so the hole size need not be exact.

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