georges_giralt

<p>Hello !<br>

A while back, when Nikon announced they stopped making LF lenses, one could buy remaining stock at a good price. I wonder if it is still possible ?<br>

As far as I know the germans have discontinued the simpler Xenar or Geronar lenses.</p>

<p>Hello !<br>

If you own a medium format camera give a try to the lens it has.<br>

A 80 mm from Hasselblad (Zeiss) or Mamiya will cover 4x5 at 1:1 magnification and you'll be surprised by the results...<br>

Just my 2 cents...</p>

<p>Hello !<br>

If I'm not mistaken, a Fresnel has to be put after the ground glass (as per the light travel path).<br>

You can put it in front of the ground glass but you've to ensure that the frosted part of the GG still sit where it was before the addition of the Fresnel lens. It is on the frosted surface of the ground glass that the image form. So if you change the ground glass position, you'll change the focusing surface and get blurry pictures (because the film plane is meant to replace exactly the grounded surface of the ground glass...)<br>

This is why you normally add the Fresnel AFTER the GG, to magnify the already formed image, and not BEFORE the ground glass where it would add another lens of unknown focal length in the light path before forming the image...<br>

Some camera makers make a combined ground glass and Fresnel lens and they sometimes incorporate the Fresnel lens before the ground glass to protect the delicate rims of the Fresnel inside the camera bellow. But for this to work they have to make calculation and get the calibration of the frosted GG surface right...<br>

Last but not least, piling up a couple of Fresnel lens is not a bad idea but you should pile them like condensers in an enlarger : plate face facing outward.Keep in mind that the resulting focal length will be the conjugate of the two focal length...<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Hello Will,<br>

I own both, an expert drum and an Unicolor motor base.<br>

You'll face a couple of problems :<br>

First the Unicolor base has a timer inside it in order to switch the rotation. You've to change this timer in order for the Expert drum to make at least a full turn on the base. As it is a mechanical timer, you've to change it by putting in the box an electronic timer and adjusting the time to get a little more than one turn.This is because the Expert durm has a large diameter and is way larger than the original Unicolor drum...<br>

Next, the expert drum. This drum has opening in the back in order to fill with the jacket water in order to keep the developer temperature even. You will of course defeat this when using the expert drum on an uniroller base... This may be a more important problem that you may think. The Expert drum has been designed for this exact bath tempering and you may have difficulties keeping the chemical warm as it will be in contact with a large amount of untempered plastic... One other advice, the expert drum will fall of the uniroller base dring rotation, as the rotation will move it one way or another (depending of the wear of the rollers) and you'd better use a couple of thick rubber bands to keep the drum centered on the roller base.<br>

All this being said, I tell you you'd better buy a plain set of rollers from Jobo (P/N is 1506 ) which are a couple of roller support used in the Jobo processor linked with a couple of plastic rods. With this in hand, use a large basin, put into it water at correct temperature, the rollers at the bottom, and start rolling your expert drum into it. As the drum will fill with water it won't float, and it will be easy to run ot the rollers. The chemicals are spread into the drum and will be randomly touching the negs avoiding streaks ... So perfect dev anytime...</p>

<p>Hope this helps !<br>

P.S. The 1506 roller base is quite the same price than a 555 timer complete assembled and wired into the base. so there is not a cost related issue...</p>

<p>Hello Norman,<br>

May I chime in ?<br>

As the shutter for this lens was being phased out, Schneider Optics delivered the latest run of this lens in a Compur #3 shutter. but this reduced the effective speed to 6.8 if I'm not mistaken. So you may make a try at a Copal #3 shutter if you've on in hand...<br>

As the overall length of the lens, I've found it to be very precise (but for a Rodenstock lens) and helped me find a bad lensboard mount explaining the poor performance the lens showed. (the lensboard was too thick and preventing the rear cell to sit properly on the shutter, sitting on the board instead ! So increasing the cell spacing and destroying the lens sharpness by a tremendous amount)</p>

<p>Hi !<br>

You've hit the limitations of the MPP.<br>

And your "cone" is not tall enough to accomodate the 90 mm. With the lens fully back into the box, you should be in focus for infinity and the few mm travel allowed would get you up to the proxy photography with a 90 mm focal lenght.<br>

The problem is that the original panel with cone is made for a size 0 shutter, and is a scarse as hen's teeth...<br>

You may be able to do something using a plain panel and some PVC tubing, Super Glue or Araldite cement and a lot of brain storming. ... But you won't be able to use any movements except rear ones. And don't forget to lower the lid of the camera if you prefer it not to show into your picture...<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Hi !<br>

The springs you are reffering to are simple flat springs. The major problem is that they're rivetted into the Grafmatic.<br>

You may go to a place doing mechanical job and ask they to cut spare spring in spring steel sheet. If they can't do the job they may know someone near you able to do it.<br>

Then you'd left with the rivetting problem I suggest you spoke about to them ....<br>

I've made replacement springs (but not for Grafmatics) on the ribbon steel one used to circle crate for shipping. excellent steel but cutting like a razor blade so be VERY careful !</p>

<p>Hi !<br>

Just to add to the confusion :<br>

I have a Tele Xenar of 360 mm focal length. When focused at infinity, I can substitute my 210 Symmar lens and this lens is quite perfectly focused. So they share quite the same flange distance !<br>

But when I unscrew the front element of the 210 symmar which is a convertible this gives me a 370 mm focal length. I've to set the flange distance to 420 mm !!! to get this 370 lens in focus at infinity !<br>

So you better measure things if you've odd lenses ;-)</p>

<p>Hi !<br>

First of all bear in mind that you should not use more than 600 CC chemistry per tank in order not to stress the motor too much.<br>

I've used PMK (plain) on a CPE2 but as I needed 500 CC working strenght dev. per 135/36 or equivalent I mix a liter (which is very cheap) and user the 500 CC for half duration and then change for the other 500 CC to finish film processing. This way I had no exhaustion problem due to aerial oxydation.<br>

I did not use Rodinal in the Jobo but you may find that double processing like I've done for PMK will suit you well.<br>

As per E6 work, I used the late Agfa AP44 half liter kit with good results (5 bathes including post rinse) and the Kodak single use chemistry kit (7 bathes including the post rinse). This last one is wonderful as the instruction sheet provides dilution figures to make only the voume needed for your current treatment. If you store the concentrate on full glass bottle upon opening, it will have good keeping properties.<br>

Bear in mind to use the Jobo devised processing times instead of the Kodak standard one otherwise you'll get poor results. I also had strange results mixing films from different manufacturers on the same processing batch. So watch out .... (the worse being Agfa and Fuji films)<br>

Last but not least, ensure proper darkroom ventilation because E6 chemistry is more nasty than B&W and mix the concentrates either under a ventilated hood or at a well ventilated place. Nitrile gloves and protection googles are a "must have"... Better safe than sorry.<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Prophot in Paris : www.prophot.com<br>

Silverprint in London, http://www.silverprint.co.uk<br>

There is one in Sweden I don't get the name right here.<br>

There is one in Barcelona, Spain but not exactly North Europe ;-)</p>

Hi !

Well you may make more bad than good.

If the rear element is a cemented pair, the haze could be the "glue" having chnaged it's properties with age.

If the haze is some sort of dirt on a plain coated lens, you may remove the coating, totally if you're lucky, partially if unlucky. (old coatings are less hard than modern ones, and the one that where designed not to be touched are softer than the external front and rear lenses one).

So I would unscrew the rear element, without disaembling it, gently rub off the dust with a camel hair brush and re screw it in place. If you're lucky you'll have removed the fine dust which has settlet on it during age. If not, you will still be able to use the lens ;-)

Hi !

I may be late on this one, but my advice may help others.

Get a tire tube (one with a puncture, not needed to destroy a useable one) and cut a square of it the size of your hand. Use this square rubber pad to unscrew the lens elements from the shutter. It will help prevent your hand to slip and protect the lenses surface being scratched.

Once you'll know this trick, you will use it more and more to open jam jars, and the like...

Do not use a jam coated rubber pad to dismantle a useable lens ;-)

Hi Ben !

Try to contact the MPP user club. At some time they sold cams (for members, IRC) so you may gave luck asking....

Hi !

I own one and it is a damn good lens !

The Compur is really good. Mine was made in the late 50's and was owned by a professional photographer doing a lot of work in the studio so it has had a lot of usage but perform very well.

So wait to test it before lurking for a new shutter... Just my 2? !

Hi !

For my 50 th birthday, I'm offered a token to attend a workshop pertaining to my

passion : photography. Lucky me !

So I'm looking for a workshop about either aesthetics or technique, focused

mainly to B&W and medium or large format.

As I do not own any digital camera, I would seriously dis consider any digital

based workshop.

Any ideas, thought recommendation will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot in advance !

Hi !

Photo Suffren in Paris, France has parts and knows how to repair electronic compur shutters.

Not cheap but if you need it....

He made a really great job on two shutter I own, replacing the electronic board I burned using 2 Litium 3V batteries in series.

You'll find a PX21 substitute in the form of 3 LR50 batteries assembled in a cardboard tube with soldered contacts. They work fine. I use them.

Bear in mind that the batteries only serve during exposure so there is little consumption and long lasting time.

Hi Erie !

I warn you as I've blown two #1 with two 3V lithium cells giving 6V.

You need as close as possible to the 4.5 and *below* at most with certain serial numbers. I was fortunate enough to have them fixed with a new electronic card ! But cost was ahummm a bit on the high side....

I've seen, since, a custom battery holder made for 3 AA cells and with two wires and a plug to go inside the original battery holder (plug made of wood and copper pins used to close envelopes).

Last but not least, if, during timed exposure, you touch the preview lever, the blades close instantly. (been there, done that...)

Hi !

I asked Calumet some time ago and was answered they were awaiting a delivery.. So maybe you could ask them ?

At that time it was listed for 110 USD approx on Calumet web site and on the same day, one was sold on Ebay for more than 200 USD.... Used....

Go figure ;-)

Hi !

I own a CombiPlan (bought new) various Jobo tanks, a Paterson Orbital (bought for a song ar a garage sale) and small trays.

I was unable to get ONE sheet of film out of the Combiplan unscratched. Every time I revert the tank, some sheet get out of their position or are displaced by the flowing liquid. And this, whatever position I gave to the ratcheted upper clip.

A previous discussion with Mr Salomon (very helpful) indicated that I had to mount the carrier without the two blue washer I got with the tank. But to no avail. I keep the Combiplan to process the Slavish plates I have and stay with Jobo tanks for serious work. I mainly use the Jobo 2500 series, the 2521 by inversion, the 2551 on a Uniroller base because it takes 3 liters of chemistry to cover the two 2509 reels, and this is too much for me to move. The main advantage of the Jobo is the time taken to fill or empty the tank. Very short. And it can be shorter if you plug a funnel into the center core, this way you have the liquid coming in only at the center of the tank and the air at the outside of the tank.

I have to say that some fellow photographers use the Combiplan and get remarkable results with it. So it may suit you or it may not. For me, I won't exchange my Jobo for anything else !

I practice 5x7 since a few weeks and had to become familiar with tray processing. So I trained myself with outdated 4x5 Efke 25 film said to be easily scratched. The first test was a mess (scratched and uneven dev.) but the second run was far better. The third run was flawless.

Suffering from dermatitis, I avoid tray processing as much as I can so I'll stick to the Jobo for leak proof processing. (I wonder if the Nitrile gloves I use are chemically safe for my skin. Better safe than sorry)

Vlad,

The Combiplan use 1.200 liter of chemistry. So the 1.450 liter of the Jobo is not so huge !

Think about using HC110 at 1+63 (dil H) or Rodinal at 1+50 or even 1+100. This will not be a huge consumption of chemistry !

I use my 2521 by inversion and I can process 2x6 sheets because I own two tanks. This way, I use the HC110 soup up to its intended capacity !

Getting very good and consistent results is worth the extra chemistry you'll use. The Jobo are a delight and a joy to load, even without the Jobo loader. (practice with some ruined sheets in the light and you'll see what I mean)

And last but not least, if one day you plan to process your E6 at home, you'll already own the tank...

Hi !

Steve, frankly, I process in either model of 2509, and six sheet at a time. I do not know if it is due to the fact that I use manual processing but I do not encounter uneven processing with either reels.

But, as usual, YMMV ;-)

For now, I'm practicing processing in trays 4 to 6 sheets at a time. To practice, I use outdated Efke 25 film without hardener which is said to be very fragile. Last attempt was scratch free ! So this is a great victory !

Hi Chris !

I own plain 2509 and improved 2509N reels, from the same source than yours.

I process my 4x5 film in a 2521 tank, used by inversion as one will do with 135 film tank. So it use a lot of chemistry (about 1.450 l) but with HC110 dil H or Rodinal 1+50 it's not a huge cost.

With the plain 2509, I can't install the flaps as there are no lock for them. I had no problem of film getting out of the reel so I often omit them even on the more recent 2509N reels.

Maybe the previous owner didn't use them and discard them ?

If you're happy without them, why bother ?

Hi !

I've seen such lens fitted into a bigger shutter with two reducing rings to reduce the size to the correct thread.

IMHO, you would have more facility finding someone able to do this job than finding a size II in good working condition. Even when they were made, they were scarce.

I _do_ second the Flutot advice.

Hi !

I own a MPP Micro technical camera MKVII (the one with international

standard back)

which lacks the focusing hood, leaving the ground glass exposed.

Has anybody one for sale, a solution, or an advice to offer ?

TIA

Hello !

I've seen a lot of "noise" regarding Bergger products.

I've read numerous interviews of the CEO of Bergger in France.

He admited the do not produce themselve the papers they sell, but that

those paper are custom made for them in west europe, india, and maybe

other places.

He told that they ask for a recipe because he knew this recipe is

working because it was a Guilleminot one. And he stated that today, to

make a FB paper you must be doing RC B&W or color in order to make the

money the FB will cost you.

But if I've understood him well, none of his contractor will have the

right to use the recipe for its own products. So you may come close,

but not the same.

I was told that some paper where made in the Czech Foma factory and

that they switched elsewhere due to quality concern ? (the FOMA group

does not have FB variable papers on their listings)

So you may have some papers from Forte, from Foma, from Sterling, and

others...

BTW someone told me that TETENAL papers are not made by TETENAL.....

Who knows ?