feli
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Posts posted by feli
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<p>No, it's a fake. I made that sketch almost a year ago, when a lot of people were tossing ideas around for what the M9 should be.<br>
I came up with two designs. That was the more modern one. The more traditional sketch was very much based on the current M8 with the addition of an AE-lock button and +/- lever for adjusting exposure compensation or asa.<br>
Personally I like the more traditional version.</p>
<p>PS: The shutter speed is displayed by the OLED on the top of the camera like the S2 does. </p>
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<p>No, it's a fake. I made that sketch almost a year ago, when a lot of people were tossing ideas around for what the M9 should be.<br>
I came up with two designs. That was the more modern one. The more traditional sketch was very much based on the current M8 with the addition of an AE-lock button and +/- lever for adjusting exposure compensation or asa.<br>
Personally I like the more traditional version.</p>
<p>PS: The shutter speed is displayed by the OLED on the top of the camera like the S2 does. </p>
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<p>I'm actually considering getting IN to Monix photography...</p>
<p>Need to choose and find a body. My main concern is film slitters, since I would reload and develop my own cartridges and film.</p>
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<p>I've had very mixed experiences with Fixation and will not use them again after the last two encounters. I will not do business with a company that varies their level of service depending on how 'professional', they perceive the gear in question to be. I demand an equal level of service for all my gear, be it a pro digital or something more dated like an F3.</p>
<p><br /></p>
<p><br /></p>
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<p>Just found this, but I would still appreciate auggestions.</p>
<p>http://www.europe-nikon.com/home/en_GB/local_content/broad/186/1.html</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Does anyone know of a Nikon Service Center in the UK aside from www.fixationuk.com?<br>
I don't want to get in to details, but need to find an alternate shop that can properly<br>
service analog bodies, like a Nikon F3 etc on a professional level.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I'm skeptical. The hands holding the Zorki don't even look like those of HCB.<br>
HCB had quite large and slender hands. Those holding the Zorki are quite beefy and the fingers<br>
aren't long enough.</p>
<p> </p>
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Oops. That was the German forum.
Here's the English speaking one:
http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/
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Starting with the M6 (and some very late M4-P) Leica shrank the area of coverage
that the frame lines show.
This is a little complicated, so let me step through this.
- The M rangefinder only compensates for parallax in X and Y (shifts frame lines to
the left right / up and down). It does not compensate for the change in magnification
that occurs when you shift focus from close up to infinity (i.e. increase/ decrease
area of coverage). In simple terms what happens is that the field of view shrinks and
expands a little (wider at infinity) due to a change in magnification. You can observe
this with an SLR. Rack a 50 from close up to infinity and you'll see what I mean.
The M frame lines remain the same size, regardless of how close or far you are
focused, and indicate a fixed area of coverage.
In pre-M6 bodies the frame lines indicate what will end up on your negative at 1
meter (100 cm). So, at infinity you get maybe 10% more on your negative, due to
the change in magnification that occurs.
In M6 or never bodies the frame lines indicate the minimum area of coverage at .7
meters (70cm). Now the error in the jump from close up to infinity is much bigger.
You may see as much as 15%-20% more on your negative at infinity, than you
expected. On another forum someone figured out that the 50mm frame lines in the
newer bodies are close to indicating the coverage of a 60mm lens.
What Leica is doing makes perfect sense from an engineering standpoint. They are
showing you the minimum area of coverage, that you are guaranteed to get on your
negative.
The only problem is that with the newer cameras the margin of error is quite big at
working distances (5m to infinity).
Therefore I only shoot anything longer than a 35 on the older bodies, which frame a
lot more accurate.
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Keep in mind that Leitz N.Y. items command higher prices, than their German made
equivalent.
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Take care of yourself George and drop by every once and a while, even if you aren't
still shooting.
;-)
Feli
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>What's wrong with Canadian balsam?
Canadian balsam becomes brittle and discolors a shade of golden brown as it ages. It is
also susceptible to attack by moisture, mold etc. As a result the bond weakens and a
strong enough bump to the camera may cause the prism blocks in the RF unit to separate,
resulting in a blanked out RF patch. You see this occasionally in M2/ M3 bodies and it is
very common in VIOOH finders.
The repair of a RF unit with this type of damage is expensive and difficult to repair. Last
time I checked DAG and CCR (UK) were among the few service centers that will do this type
of work.
So, yes. There were some very good reason why starting with the M4 Leica switched to
synthetic UV cured glues for their optical elements. After WWII this became standard
practice across the optical industry.
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Yes. Apparently the M3/M2 used Canadian balsam and starting with the M4, Leica switched
to a UV cured synthetic glue.
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I think Rob Appleby shot an R6 and he was standing on top of an active kiln in India, when his R6 died on him. I'm still trying to figure out how HE didn't catch fire. ;-)
If I remember correctly the only Minolta part in the R6.2 is the body shell, which they cast for Leica. At some point Minolta was no longer able to supply these and that was the end of the R6.2
What people should keep in mind is that at one point Minolta actually made pro level cameras and was in direct competition with Canon, Nikon and Olympus. Like everyone else Minolta produced consumer level gear, but were quite capable of turning out some high quality bodies.
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"I expect it to be oversized, overpriced and behind the curve"
It's all rumors at this point. The only people that know anything are internal to Leica and testers under NDA.
The only thing we can really predict is that it will not be cheap.
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What they should offer is the option of a more accurate set of framelines, that indicate the area of coverage at 1 meter, like the older cameras (M3/M2/M4/M5/M4-2/M4-P). The current set leaves a lot to be desired, even by rangefinder standards.
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Oops.
You're right Kelly. I got my Jupiters and Industars all out of orbit.
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It could have originally shipped in M mount. Many of the original M-mount lenses actually
were for screwmount, with an LTM->M adapter that was fixed with a screw. That could
explain the high serial number.
The 3.5/50 Elmar is a bit of a nightmare and delight for collectors. It was made for
decades and there are a huge amount of variations and factory modifications/upgrades.
Toss in the chaos of WWII, where material shortages led to all sorts of strange
combinations of new and old parts and you have a recipe for chaos.
Personally I don't think that is a fake. The build quality looks far to high for a Russian
knock off and the front of a Jupiter also looks different.
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Hey, Drew
Is the leather on your Ic original and is it a shade of brown, instead of black?
Leica made a very small run of calf leather clad bodies and they are quite rare.
Check the serial number at www.cameraquest.com
cheers,
Feli
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The ZF 100mm is apparently based on a prime lens that Zeiss makes for the movie business.
It is an astonishingly sharp and good piece of glass. You really don't want to know how much the movie version of this lens costs.
Feli
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I thought the same thing when I was about to remove the top plate on my M4 (going for a repaint). I got my hands on a repair manual and it's trickier than I suspected. Again as an example, I had no idea that some of the screws had to be removed by turning them in the opposite direction than you expect. One of these is around the advance lever. If you try to unscrew it by turning it like a regular screw, you will damage the gear train.
If Leica, Japan is too expensive, have you considered sending it to a shop in the USA or Canada? Sherry, DAG and Kinderman have all worked on my gear and they are a lot chea per than the Leica service department. Besides, the dollar is in the dumps, so your currency should work in your favor (unless the yen is even lower)
http://www.lhsa.org/repair.html
Even with shipping it should be a lot cheaper. Just tell the shop to lower the value of the gear/repair, when they mark it on the customs form.
Feli
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Bad idea. There are over 1000 parts in that camera and you will need the proper tools to
work on it.
Some screws and items unscrew clockwise and anti-clockwise. If you force something in
the wrong direction you could damage the internals.
The R8 isn't a cheap camera. Send it to someone who knows what they are doing.
Feli
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You probably don't want to hear this, but how are you going to collimate it with out an
optical bench?
Where are you located?
Feli
Is This the Face of the M9?
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
<p>
<p>No, it's a fake. I made that sketch almost a year ago, when a lot of people were tossing ideas around for what the M9 should be.<br>
I came up with two designs. That was the more modern one. The more traditional sketch was very much based on the current M8 with the addition of an AE-lock button and +/- lever for adjusting exposure compensation or asa.<br>
Personally I like the more traditional version.</p>
<p>PS: The shutter speed is displayed by the OLED on the top of the camera like the S2 does. </p>
</p>