james_elwing

<p>I doubt anybody was offended. Also happy new year.</p>

<p>Yashica FX3 was lovely and light, worked just fine, but all the external plastic peeled, and, of course, you had to have a contax/yashica bayonet set of lenses, so you need to get to a garage sale where they have a big set of appropriate lenses in a cardboard box for $40, along with the camera of your choice.</p>

<p>This is all fun, if a little pointless. All the Spotmatics with screw lenses feel better to me than the K1000, which feels like a cut price Spotmatic. There are an incredible number of interesting and cheap screw lenses and accessories. The weakness is in getting decent lenses wider than 28mm.<br> That's where Pentax bayonet is well situated; simply gets the benefit of later designs. <br> I can't see any choice benefit without considering the lenses available, and how well the external plastic parts survive with age. </p>

<p>Bizarre. </p>

<p>Why anyone would bother counterfeiting the cheapest lens in the Canon EOS line-up is beyond me. I suggest sending them a picture or two if you want some meaningful response.</p>

<p>I think if you could find a kit in good working order, with maybe 3 backs and battery packs, you could be quite happy. It was very easy to shoot at lower speeds, and worked well with adapted PS / Takumar lenses, retaining full aperture focusing. I never had any electronic failures with either model, but destruction from dropping on a concrete floor.<br> The Singapore made Rollei SLR preceding, which had a similar vertical running metal shutter, was very prone to circuit board failure.<br> Price would be an issue. I sold a 3003, 5 backs, most lenses, to help fund a divorce. It still smarts. I would love one again, but only at the right price which recognises its age and vulnerability.</p>

<p>Rollei made the Carl Zeiss lenses under licence. Great camera, but a bit prone to catastrophic damage.</p>

<p>This is a long shot, but the only cameras I can think of like that use Carl Zeiss lenses, but are the Rolleiflex SL2000F and Rolleiflex 3003, mfg in Germany. </p>

<p>likely under the rubber grip. Can you roll that back? That's where I'd look anyway</p>

<p>You right John. Thanks.<br> Now why did I make that assumption? aah I was thinking of the Topcon UNI,</p>

<p>get it cleaned</p>

<p>BENEFIT:<br> They have the qualities of any leaf shutter in that they are better with flash than a focal plane shutter, given that many focal plane shutters had a synch around 1/50 or1/60th sec, while I think leaf shutters will do electronic flash at all speeds.</p>

<p>Who decided the K1000 was a cult camera? It's really just a Spotmatic with a bayonet, and full aperture metering, and, if I recall, a meter that stays on all the time, so you need to keep the cap on to deactivate it. I think the meter was the same as the Spotmatic, at least that is where I got my new Spotmatic meter parts from some years ago, according to the technician.</p>

<p>Yes you will eventually cause damage. If you want the 28mm frame, use the frame selection lever until you take the photo, then release it,</p>

<p>I use figure of 8 type sewing. Using 2 needles you can just do one then the other. With one needle you select a run, sew to the end and then back. The main things are to remove old thread detritus, and you can only pull hard on the thread in one direction, otherwise the leather is disturbed and the repair is visible. The good thing is that most sewing can be redone without dismantling anything. Around the base screw is more difficult, but the sewing there usually stays intact.<br> It's very satisfying if you get a good result.</p>

<p><em>'Maybe it's intended as a push-on cap for a lens with an E39 (not A39) filter thread?'</em><br> That's it. You are meant to be puzzled; its a Leica thing. Just be pleased you don't have to drop in 'series' filters any more. </p>

<p>M3 is not a DSLR. I can not recommend it as I have not used it. </p>

<p>So you are getting rid of the 70D? If so, you might as well sell the 10-18. Have you looked at any other full frame ultra wides? </p>

<p>750D has simple straightforward controls, a 24mp sensor and seems to be a good price. If you are not sure if you might want an M3, then everything is up in the air, so get the cheapest and most flexible.</p>

<p>Insufficient information<br> The 750D is configured like the earlier digital rebels, with the primary control to the right of the viewfinder, the other two more like the rest of the EOS range. The 60D has been around a while, but seems more durable, and more expensive.<br> What they have in common is that they are all just fine, but they are at the bottom end of the EOS market. Depends what you want from it; weight, pixels, handling, versatility.....What do you want it for. I think the 750+760 are more likely to come with a nest of lenses; do you need that?<br> There are more classy EOS models more sturdy or more versatile, maybe full frame.</p>

<p>I have had this problem with old M3's. I would just try jiggling / exercising the frame selector lever before I worried too much. </p>

<p>JDM, that's not a photographer. Surely he should be wearing a beret and a cravat :-)</p>

<p>I reckon they would twig, Glen. At the same time, they probably wouldn't throw someone with crutches down the front steps of the British Museum or equivalent :-)</p>

<p>That looks to me like a 5x4 too. Good call of reflex. I think Thornton Pickard made them too, but of course they were British, so probably didn't turn up in USA much.</p>

<p>With the National Trust, the situation for non commercial photography of interiors is ambiguous, at the whim of the manager, while amateur photography of exteriors / landscapes is said to be acceptable.<br> Commercial photography, interior or landscape, is licensed or banned & prosecuted; totally controlled. It's not a good look</p>