doug_lee__cinnaminson__nj

I am trying to understand CAnon ETTL flash and am somewhat confused.

I have an EOS 1V and 550EX flash. My understanding is that the camera

will automatically adjust for proper background exposure and the

flash will handle the exposure for the main subject. So, when I take

a manual meter reading with the 1V I get f2.8 at 1/15 and set the

camera accordingly. No problem.

 

However, if I change to Av or Tv mode the in-camera meter now

indicates the correct exposure is f2.8 at 1/30?? If I turn the flash

off the in-camera meter indicates that f2.8 at 1/15 is the correct

exposure. If I switch the flash back on the correct meter reading

goes back to f2.8 at 1/30. If I change the mode to Program now the

camera sets itself for f5.6 at 1/60. I am confused.

 

So, I can get three different "correct" exposures for the background

depending on the mode (P, Av, Tv, or M) I select. What really

confuses me is why the in-camera meter is affected by the flash being

off or on. That makes no sense to me, at all.

 

Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

You refer to the "picture". How do the negatives look? If the negs aren't scalped, perhaps you just need to shoot a little looser.

 

I have the opposite problem, sort of. I am used to shooting with my EOS 1v (100% viewfinder, I think. Or close to it) I leave room so when I have prints made I don't have "scalped" heads. I recently started working as an assistant for a wedding photographer and use his EOS 1D to supplement his MF images. The 1D apparently shows less than 100% because when I shoot with it I end up with more head room than anticipated. Of course with digital, I can see it and try again (hopefully!) Good luck.

 

Doug

I think the only way to know is to test it as you plan on doing. It is not perfect even for negative film. I have just recently begun to actually use my my 555 flash with my 1v and have found the e-ttl flash to be too "hot" (over-exposed). I use Fuji NPH and even a -2/3 stop adjustment in the flash is still a little too much flash. I should note I have the camera set to manual, f8 @ 1/60.

 

As far as Canon not selling something that doesn't work, well... I recently began assisting a pro wedding photographer and the first thing he told me as he handed me the EOS-1D was, "Don't use ttl flash. It doesn't work." Apparently there is a problem with how the sensor reads the flash. So, he uses a Metz 54-MZ2 in auto mode.

 

Personally, I get much better results using a Q-flash in auto mode. But, that is a whole different subject. Good luck!

If I could by a japanese lense with a max aperature of f1 for $200 that gave me shots like the noct I wouldn't call it a piece of crap. Know where I can get one? (-;

Very nice images. But, did you really have to post them for all to see? I mean really! Now I want one, too!!! <grin>

 

I really do like your images. Nicely done.

 

Thanks,

Doug

I thought I read a review on the D60 that mentioned it could fire at a rate of 3fps in bursts of 8 frames. Perhaps you are exceeding this limit with your 11 frames of "rapid fire"? Just a guess.

I just came back from a trip to New Brundwick, Canada. I took too much equipment. I had an M with 28/35/50/90/135 lenses. When we went out sightseeing I took the M and the 35mm Summilux. I think I stuck the 50 in my pocket a couple of times. Once I wished I had the 28 with me (instead of in the car), but I made do with the 35. The EOS kit with L zooms stayed home, as usual.

 

I hate carrying too much, which is why I end up leaving most equipment in the car or back at the hotel. We are planning a trip to Greece in March. As of now, I am planning on taking two M bodies and 28/35/50 lenses.

 

BTW, someone mentioned Bob Krist. In his latest book, he says he takes 80% of his photos with two lenses; a 20-35 and 80-200.

 

Good luck.

Unfortunately, I am not a digital photographer. However, one thing I have heard more than once is that having the "best" glass is not always necessary on a digital camera. Basically, it is possible to have a lense with a resolution greater than the camera's sensor can resolve.

 

If you have noticed an improvement when using Canon L glass, well, I am certainly not going to agrue the point. (-: However, I don't think you can judge lense quality on a monitor. Perhaps you have a faulty lense. Maybe the IS function isn't performing as it should.

 

Good luck.

David, my "local" camera shop in Levittown, PA has a user DS M3 with 5cm collapsible lense for about $900 (could be $995, I don't remember). It is missing a piece of Vulcanite on the front. I also know they have a very nice current model 35mm Summicron (I traded it in Thursday!) Don't know what they are asking. They have other used Leica items as well. They have a nice looking M4-P for $995 (I think) body only.

 

You can contact them at 215-547-2841. Name is Allen's Camera.

 

Good luck!

Todd, I'd say you take the shot. You can manipulate the final print later and perhaps lighten it up, if you think it is necessary. But, I am not an expert. Just my opinion.

Wouldn't it be easier to buy an older body to use with the FD lenses?

I was just told by my dealer that I did not need a thin filter unless I was going to use it on my 17-35. A regular filter would work fine on my 28-70. Hope this helps.

I am curious. Why can't a digital image be sharper than 50 lpm? Or is this simply the limit of today's technology?

I have both an M6 and M6TTL. Unfortunately, the M6 is off being CLA'd, so I can't check. Not sure if you were asking this question, but neither the M6 nor the M6ttl will be as quiet as the M7. Different shutter mechanism, so I have read.

Interesting question. I actually use mine. More so to check composition for longer focal lengths. For example, I usually have a 35mm on the camera and would use the lever to check for 50 or 90. Hardly ever use it going the other way.

I own an EOS-1V. How's that for an opinion?

"Yeah, but IMO he still needs to learn how to use the meter in his camera ;>)... Wayyyyyyy too dark for me. "

 

Thsi appears to be his style nowadays. Take a look at his Cuba book. All on the darkish side (in general).

The SF-20 is hotshoe dependent (no pc connection), FWIW. Also, the SF-20 is on the expensive side, especially if you are not able to take advantage if its ttl ability (which and M2 cannot.)

Nice images, as usual. Every time I look at DAH's work I get the urge to sell all my lenses but the 35mm. He does so much with so little (equipment).

"sorry I stop-down the lens one more stop instead of reducing the flash output by one stop."

 

I don't believe that is going to work if the SF-20 is set to TTL mode.

 

-Doug

I agree with NK. It is a big, scarry lense. (-; It balances fairly well with an EOS-1V HS. It is OK without the power booster. A bit lense heavy. Its size is a problem in that I tend to knock it into things (like door jambs, other peolpe, counter tops, etc.) when it is hanging off my shoulder. However, I also own and use Leica M equipment, so I am biased when it comes to size and weight.

 

That said. The 28-70L is the first lense I grab when I know I am going to be shooting an "event" and I am asked to play photojournalist. For example, when my church had a ground breaking ceremony for a new education building.

 

Good luck.

I agree with Chris. Go for it. In my limited experience KEH prices are high. I don't think you are getting the deal of the century, but I also don't think you are over paying. Don't know what the lense goes for, but a fully functioning M6 Classic at my local dealer goes for $1,095. Good luck and enjoy!

Nicholas,

Good question and interesting responses. I am just starting down this great path of photography. What I am finding is that it is a slow process (for me) that has many phases. Perhaps viewing other's work has the initial affect of you shooing like them, but in time your own unique style will evolve. I am presntly happy to attempt to imitate others. One day my vision will come through, if I let it. Well, that is my 2 cents worth. Good luck.

I think the comparison is a bit unfair. You are comparing a consumer level AF ALR with a pro level rangefinder. True, rangefinder focusing is inherently better at wide to normal focal lengths.

 

But given your equipment choices, you would have been better off witht he Leica as you determined.

 

I own and use both Leica Ms and Canon EOS-1v. The only problem I have noticed with AF on the 1v is if I let the camera choose which of the 45 auto-focus points to use. That is slow and does not always pick the correct subject to focus. I use the 1v with f2.8 zoom lenses (17-35, 28-70 and 70-200).

 

My 2 cents worth.

I purchased an EOS-1V 2 weeks ago and have not noticed any metering

problem. In fact I compared it a Nikno F100, Leica M6 and M6TTL,

Gossen Digilite and Lun Pro S meters. Using a grey card in afteroon

sunlight all meters gave me the same exposure. I'd say it was pretty

accurate.

 

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-Doug Lee