john5

I have owned several F2s and though your problem sounds quite odd I'm

not supprised. The self timers on those cameras usually give you the

most trouble and have learned to try them before you buy one. Howerer

I do not think that it is broken. From memory there should be a 2 or

3 position switch physically around the shutter release. One position

is locked second normal, third conects the shutter to the self timer

to the shutter for long time exposures. I think that is where your

problem is the shutter is still linked to the self timer. How to

release it it has been a while so I cant tell you how to release it.

But maybe this will jog someones memory. Hope this helps.

With point and shoot cameras the optical finder is usually one of the

worst part of the camera. It job really is to give you an educated

guess at best on what is going to appear on the film or in your case

the sensor. Luckily with digital we now have a preview screen that

will give us a more accurate first impression and an exact and

instant final image. You might try sending it in for service but it

might be one of the quirks that you have to live with.

Custom? Calumet has a paramount household to bipost in stock maybe

give them a call.

Does the box really say across? Acording to the fuji rep the 100 ASA

in europe is actually a dufferent emultion/grain structure/everything.

I'll put my 2 cents in with everyone else. Any one of these are going

to be a good performer. The Symar-S or the Sironar are excellent

performers. I have heard others say that the 210mms are the sharpest

in both lines. {I know someone is going to disagree even though I

said heard} I would personally want a more modern lens {less than 20-

30 years old} less worry of seperation or fungus and the shutters

usually do not need to be repaired. My personal favorite was an

uncoated Symar-S. This may sound stupid but your choice should be

based on which you perfer. If you buy something because someone else

says it is great: A. if you do not like working with it you will

never be happy and will probably convince yourself that it is a bad

performer, and second alot of people get wraped up in numbers,spec

sheets, lpm, apo, abs, and whatever unless you are doing an extreem

enlargement or using a 20x lupe to view yourtransparencies it's going

to be hard to tell the difference. However for best results go with a

modern lens, forget about the debate and shoot.

I had one. It was always an adventure to load. I had a Linhof

Technica V and 4 lenses. First all the bag is what it is a bag that's

all. If yo want to protect your lenses/camera you need something:

tupperware, wraps, pouches or dividers. All these take up space. The

front pockets were great for film holders and a box of film. I also

had a 405 Polaroid holder shoved in one of them. I guess the thing

that I didn,t like was digging for things. Maybe check out the medium

sized backpacks from lowepro or tamrac before you settle on the

domke. IMHO they are easier to work out of and are all inclusive

where you do not have to buy and/or find extra stuff to do the job a

bag is supposed to do.

Yes the do fade after 5-10 years depending on use and will not be as

effective. The bulb changing color tword the end of it's life is

normal and a completely different issue, get used to it. You will

notice your adjustments will be way off and it's time for a new

bulb. Check with the manufacturer to see if replacement filters are

still available. They are usually not very expensive but this may be

the deciding factor on your purchase. Also remember that you will

need a voltage regulator if that is not working properly just forget

it.

If it is in good condition buy it!!!!!! Play. Find out what you need.

Then sell the rest on ebay. You would probably end up with a free and

complete system. As for cams you do not need them to use the lens

they are just for the rangefinder. On IVs they are specific to lens

AND body. If you really want camed lenses and think that you will use

them. Sell the bodies on ebay and go for a Master and get cams ground

for your lenses for about $250.00 each.

GET THE 110XL! It is a very sharp lens, noticably the sharpest I've

owned. The inconvenience of not being abple to fold it in the body is

minimal. (used to own a techV} As for size the lens itself is not

that large. As for movements the 110 almost covers 8X10 so light fall

off would be non existant on a technica. Yes you will pay alot more

for the 110 but think of it as an investment with benefits that over

time will outweigh the initial sticker stock.

Go for the B+W slim filter. It only cuts down a stop and gives no

color cast on transparency film.

As a large format guy who has sold all of his equipment to go digital

I think I can give some insight on the other side. First as with

everything photographic the end result is going to justify the means.

I you want to display a traditional C print, Ilfochrome, or B+W print

it is not imposible to do this with digital. However a 4x5, 8x10, or

larger will give you the best results. Now if you were to work within

the digital "world" so to speak where you are going to "process" your

images with the computer your end result could be quite different.

There are ink jet prints which are more like mechanized paintings or

photographic images printed on alternative papers. There is acetate

where a negative can be produced for contact printing. Output to a

fuji pictography printer which is a silver process and is

indistinguishable {spelling?} from a traditional photographic print.

Neg and transparency printers. Ect...

<p>

By no means am I on a digital high horse though it may sound like it.

IMHO digital right now is geared more tword the photographic fine

artist who has been dying for an easier and more cost efficient way

of taking/creating an image. This works for me.

<p>

For an exact {to some extent} copy of what is there, large format

film will give you the best result with traditional processes.

Digital will give you medium format reults if you know what you are

doing when using traditional processes.

<p>

IMHO

As a large format guy who has sold all of his equipment to go digital

I think I can give some insight on the other side. First as with

everything photographic the end result is going to justify the means.

I you want to display a traditional C print, Ilfochrome, or B+W print

it is not imposible to do this with digital. However a 4x5, 8x10, or

larger will give you the best results. Now if you were to work within

the digital "world" so to speak where you are going to "process" your

images with the computer your end result could be quite different.

There are ink jet prints which are more like mechanized paintings or

photographic images printed on alternative papers. There is acetate

where a negative can be produced for contact printing. Output to a

fuji pictography printer which is a silver process and is

indistinguishable {spelling?} from a traditional photographic print.

Neg and transparency printers. Ect...

<p>

By no means am I on a digital high horse though it may sound like it.

IMHO digital right now is geared more tword the photographic fine

artist who has been dying for an easier and more cost efficient way

of taking/creating an image. This works for me.

<p>

For an exact {to some extent} copy of what is

I do not know much about the other cameras but also once owned a

Technica V. I have also played alot with the Zone VI. Although it

doesn't seem to have much substance it holds up quite well and is

quite sturdy. I was alot more abusive to the camera. Done things I

never would have done with my Roles Royce Linhof. It also sped up

working time since I didn't really worry to much about a large

investment. It came home the same way it left, in perfect working

order. Things to get used to is that it is quite simple. Everything

slides {no geared movement}and locks when tightened down. Very good

degree of movement keeping in mind that it is not a view camera. I

did miss the free moving back movements of the Linhof though I never

really used them. The bail that opens up the back to insert film

holders is so simple and completely awesome. Accessories are cheap

relatively speaking and easily found new. Two pieces of advice. Buy

the bright screen for an additional $200.00 and throw away the groung

glass it comes with. Buy something anything to hang on your tripod.

One of those cheapy bookbags that you can throw some nearby rocks

into. Finally call Calumets 800 # ask for someone who knows large

format they are usually more than happy to talk to you.

$850.00 + another $20.00 + shipping seems a little high. Especially

on this lens. It has been made forever and you can't really be sure

of it's age. The earliest lenses had little glitches here and there,

the newer ones are more reliable. If you can buy a new one for

$200.00 more why are you even debating this? If you go on vacation

and your lens fails {which is more likely with an older or used lens}

how much is airfare back to that location. If you are shooting

professionally how much $ would you lose if you lens goes down in the

middle of a job. Sorry to be so long winded. Finally how much will it

cost to repair after the warranty has expired. If a lens has alot of

electronics in it {USM motor} I would rather know it's history or be

paying alot less. Hope this helps.

Why?

After buying adapters if they are available or fabricating one it

would end up being more than buying a Horseman roll film back

{for4X5} They range from 6X6? for sure 6X7 to 6X12. Also you would

not have to worry about the ground glass matching up with the film

plane of the medium format roll film back. With the right tool, a 4X5

roll film back from Horseman,Linhof,or whoever, the best results are

possible with the least amount of effort.

Any Nikon or Nikon mount lens will work on your camera. It sounds

like Amazon sold you the wrong lens. Amazon is a book seller at best

try a real photo store. EM s were great basic cameras if you are

comfortable with the camera keep it if not try a point and shoot

camera or a basic SLR camera like the Nikon N65.

Zone VI is not out of business and yes Calumet is the only place

where you can buy them. A huge difference when the meter is modified

is that the originals have a chrome {yes reflective chrome} housing

around the light sensor. The Zone VI is matte black. It also has

baffels to reduce flare within the lens. What does this mean? A true

1 deg spot unlike any other brand. A perfect test of this is point a

Zone VI meter at a lightbulb so it fills the circle guide. Move the

circle away from the bulb. You will see a fast and sharp drop in EV.

A true 1 deg metering area. Do this with any other meter and it will

fall of gradually. 1 deg with fuzzy edges. Way more accurate and way

more specific. Hope this helps.

With the higher end filters the difference is in the glass. First

there will be no color cast from the actual glass. Hoya and Tiffen

have a slight greenish cast on transparancy film. Now heliopan and

b+w are on the same level they have clear glass with a polarizing

film inbetween the glass. Kasemann has the polarizing material within

the glass itself. Now that you have all this useless info any one of

the better brands would be fine. Use a linear polarizer because they

are more effective. I believe the 80XL has a 67mm thread like the

110XL {email schneider to be sure} and like the 110 if you screw in a

67mm it will scratch the center of the glass {the front element

sticks out too far} you would want to spend a million dollars on a

wide angle filter or use a 67mm to 77mm step up ring and any 77mm

filter {slim filters if possible}. Buy the heliopan step up rings

they are brass and will not bind like the tin ones. It is just so

much fun removing a bound ring from a $1500.00 lens with a pair of

pliers. Hope this helps.

Buy the dual rail rototrim and don't give it a second thought. I

would sugegest think about the largest print that you can make, go to

the next size up {example if you can print a 16X20 think 20X24} and

then purchase the next size cutter 30X40. Why? Things change, labs

can print larger prints, and why buy something twice?

Check out the Calumet film washers. I have heard many good things

about them from those who own them {Even the super annal purists}

KJP in England is now called Calumet and they have several stores

throughout the country. I believe there is also a Calumet store in

Germany. Maybe check out their website www.calumetphoto.com

John

I must disagree with the other posters on a few points and agree on

others. Yes it is true that consumer zooms are a big compimise of

quality for price. If you were to purchase let's say an 80-200 2.8 it

would be difficult to see the difference between this lens and the

fixed 180mm 2.8. However the fixed lens might look beter when

comparing MTF charts or technical number mumbo jumbo. You can test

and test and therorize all you want but you are wasting film and in

my case valuable time. Go out and shoot. Remember you get what you

pay for {there are reasons why the 2.8 zooms are pricey}. As for 35mm

most work printed should be 4X6, 8X10 or 11X14. 16X20 with a fixed

focal length lens. Finally as for a 50mm lens go for the 60mm micro.

I gives you more options than a plain 50mm like the ability to focus

from infinity to a working distance of 1 to 1 and is a damn sharp

lens.

Hope this helps.

Don't laugh. I use a Acer1200U {$150.00 new} w/built in transparency

adapter. And an old Epson Photo 700. With it's 1200 optical DPI

{scanner} I can see the dots that make up the film/frame info on 120

film. A 4X5 transparency @ 1200 DPI crashes my computer but a 600 DPI

I can get great results. If you can spend about $1000.00 for a

flatbed scaner get the Heitelburg 1200 scanner it has the same specs

but a way higher D Max. As for a printer get a refurbished Epson 1200

{directly from epson} it is the last Epson printer that will print up

to 13X19 and accept 3rd party archival ink {color or B+W } The newer

printers do not accept 3rd party inks and epson does not offer B+W

quadtone inks. The new printers use color to make B+W and IMHO just

don,t measure up. Then buy a smaller cheap printer for the normal

stuff.

Why not? Calumet will give you the full original value of the camera

if you ever want to move up in the cambo line. They are not a Sinar

or Linhof,however great cameras for a fraction of the price.