paul_nelson3

Good Stuff, Al! I might add that anytime I need some info, Al is one

of those I write to. Always takes time to answer, and never has a

churlish reply. A good neighbor on our forum. Cheers, PN

Streuth! Mike, your making my eyes fall out! I might even leave the

black & White for a while just to give a roll of Velvia or K64 a

try! Great Stuff!

Do us a favour, go down to Joe T Garcia's, tell them your're hongry,

and order a meal, a take a few shots just for old time sake. they

may not spot your gear, but you'll have a hell of a good time!

I have a late model TE, made in Germany, great lens, but you have to

hold it still, and use it at 1/500 or else it will shake. Tripod

worth using too. Late models seem to have less separation problems.

Cheers, PN

Lest we forget! Nowadays you have to be very careful what you say.

Everyone is so opinionated. Even down here, where we have rougly

3000 people spread out all over the Shire, there are those that are

raising hell about the bombing of the Afgans. When I was in Vietnam,

they tried to tell me that we were fighting for the rights of those

back home to tell us to go to hell. Some how it just didn't wash. I

see the media starting all over again. Moulding public opinion.

Ahh, I guess I am waxing a bit philosophical. PN

Cosmo, wanna sell one? PN

Thanks to all. More info is never enough, but really, I didn't want

to cause a bun-fight. Thanks Jay, John, Ivor, Wolfie, et al.

The page I was looking at shows the Canadien M4-2's starting

12/7/1977 with Sn. 1480001, with the exception of the E Leitz Canada

model of the M4, dated 1/16/1974. I can't find a list with the

1468143 Sn. Thanks, but sorry so say, I am still a bit confused.

Hello to all. I recently saw a M4-2 for sale, with the Sn. 1468143, and was a black body, and had "Wetzlar" also engraved on the top plate. Above the hot-shoe was the usual Made in Canada. I checked and could not find when this was made. Nor do I see many "Made in Canada", with the large "Wetzlar" stamp. Anyone know about this piece, when it was made, and is it special? Thanks for that and cheers. PN

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1290174024

You just can beat Acapulco, and it is safe too!

I am having my M6, (classic, 1986) undergoing a CLA and repair to the brightline selector. My repair man said to me that the famed, Lieca wax seal is missing. I bought the camera from Cathay Photo in Singapore, complete with a warrantee issued from Schmidt Scientific, the importer. Does anyone know if M6's all came with the Lieca "L" seal, or what seal is suppose to be on the ring? The repair man asked if I had ever had work done, and I had not. I also bought the camera as a new sale, with a trade in on my old M3. So what gives?

I wear glasses, have many of the same problems that you all have. I

suppose that by the time we have the dough to get into Leica, we are

old, and have all of the infirmities that old folks have, like lousy

eyesight and thick glasses. Thanks Jay, as always, on topic and

ready to help others. P Nelson

Gosh, you guys ought to live down here, on the Great Southern Ocean,

I have to drive 25km just to get the newspaper, and 5hours to get

chemical or papers. If you really want to go global, buy from Camera

Electronic Service in Perth. Lovely people. cheers, PN

I have exactly the same problem with a M6, and today spoke with the

repair technician. this is fairly easily fixed by a Leica tech, they

have tools that only they can use to take the top plate off. It does

not take much of a "bump" to dislodge the mechanism and the result is

35/135 stays up regardless of the selector. Especially if the camera

was at a particular position when the bump occurred. this does not

mean a drop, by any means, only a bump. So I am having mine fixed,

the technician has only recently returned from der Faterland, and

will have it ready, plus CLA in about 2 weeks, (his backlog from

being away) cheers, P Nelson

I'm just getting back to B&W developing and printing too. My advice,

read all the technique's on the Kodak web site, use Ilford products

(FP4+, HP5, Ilfolsol S, Multigrade IV paper). this is a good

combination. No one has better resources for reading than Kodak, and

their products are great too. But for ease of developing for an

amateur, I think Ilfords film, chemical, and papers will give you a

very good product. I use a 9x glass, hand held, to look at contacts.

It works. PN

Actually, this is a good question to a common problem. And the

working to a theme answer is the only way I too can get going. If I

just go out with out direction, I wind up with nothing but a lot of

test shots, but little in the way of good and interesting. Start

with some research on a subject. Doesn't have to be brain surgery.

I am currently working on pictures of a dying trade, the timber

industry in SoWest Oz. I find old deserted mills, machinery and the

like and take photos in B&W, then develop and print them myself.

This will help get more into the hobby. PN

Yeah, nice to know you're ok; I got a bit of a start when I read this

thread.

I have the same thing wrong with my M6, the lines stay on 35/135

regardless of which lens is on. I understand that the pin has come

out of the link that is attached to the lever, and that the top of

the camera has to be removed to put it back. So I am having a CLA

done in about 2 weeks up in Perth. I wonder how common this is and is

it a design problem. PN

Who the heck said he did his best Darkroom work with a bottle of Blackjack? My hat's off to him; with only had a toddy of Laphroig, I still make a lot of silly errors. Like punching the timer with the lens at f2.8 instead of f8.

 

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This time of the year, hard to get the Darkroom up above 15C. It's a bit cold here. So even though I start with water at 23C, by the time I get to making prints, the temp is down to 18, and going fast.

Is there a temp. conversion chart for Ilford chemicals, showing times for temperatures below 20C? Better yet, is there an interpolation that I could use? I am running Multigrade IV paper, with Multigrade developer. Thanks for that, cheers.

Niels, both your answers are very correct. Gossen Sixtomat Digital

and Robert White. Talk to Stu at Robert White, his address is

Stu @ Robert White

E-mail Address(es):

stu@robertwhite.co.uk

 

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Stu is amazing, and will give you a ton of help. And 85GBP is a good

price. PN

Bokeh has more to do with "Art" than technical considerations. Art

is in the eye of the beholder. That's why what some people call art,

I call simple vulgarity. So it is, IMO, with bokeh. I suppose it

also is the softness of the out of focus areas of the photo, that 1/3

in front and 2/3's behind the sharp subject. I don't think much about

this when I am considering EV, composition, and subject. PN

I have been using a 90mm 2.8TE on my M6, and notice that the brightlines for 28, wich shows with the 90 are very sharp. As are the 135 "j" shaped lines, which show virtually all the time, no matter which lens I have on. But the lines for the 90 are very faint, sometimes only a small strip on lines. Has anyone else notices this, or is it a problem on my 6 ? Fortunately, when using the 90, I usually compose in the centre, so it hasn't been a problem to date. And should the 135 lines be present all the time?

thanks for that, P Nelson

Gem of a question, great responses. A lot of my work comes from the

Peoples Republic of China, (Great Wall, 3G Dam, Yangtse, Xian, Silk

Route), pays to have a Govt. guide with you. Never had a problem, and

was never refused an opportunity.

I have a late German 90TE, bought for $700, including mint glass,

case, hood, caps. It also came with a UVa filter that had been on it

from day dot. I wouldn't part with it for quids, as it makes a nice

part of my 2-lens travel gear. the other lens is a late model

35cron. If you can get a 90TE with really good glass, no fog or

marks, it will be worth it for the size. PN