gerald1

Leica sorely needs more competition on the RF sector. Perhaps Sony could be persuaded to retrieve their Konica

Hexar RF CAD drawings and shoe horn their latest sensor into it?

 

Gerald

A couple of years ago, over the new year holidays, I ran our of film and the only thing I could find in a convenience store open was Gold 100. It turned out some of my best pictures in terms of color and resolution. It scanned very well at full 4000 dpi resolution on the Nikon 4000 with virtually no tweaking. It is no longer available.

Try this link.

 

http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/velvia100.htm

 

Gerald

I have used a SB-24 with a M6 in the auto mode. Excellent flash pictures. No problems so far except for the top heavy balance. After being so used to my all auto SLRs, I sometimes forget to set the correct sync speed. I have never tried it on my M7 of course.

 

Gerald

Leica has ignored one of the tenets of modern marketing - planned obsolescence, and is paying the price.

 

When film is discontinued, I'll still have my M7 to fondle and practise my rangefinder skills.

 

Gerald

There is no need to crimp the film. This method has always worked for me on both the M6 and M7. Try it.

 

Open the camera upside down so that the film back plate can stay open. Remove the baseplate.

 

Insert the film canister and draw the film into the take up spool as shown in the baseplate diagram. There is no need to line up the film with the sprockets. Do not draw the film past the take up spool.

 

Next, close the baseplate whilst leaving THE FILM BACK OPEN. Then wind the film. The mechanism will automatically line up the sprockets. Wind it until both sprockets are clearly engaged with the film. You will see the film lining up the correctly.

 

Open the baseplate (ie. pivot it around its lug) and close the film back. Replace the baseplate.

 

I have not missed a single loading this way. Having visual confirmation that the sprockets are engaged also gives me confidence that the film has been loaded correctly.

 

I usually get around 38 or 39 shots.

 

Gerald

Wayne,

 

I would highly endorse this QR system, especially for the Leica M cameras. When I investigated various QR plates, I had borrowed Arca Swiss and Gitzo types and found them very uncomfortable on the M7 as their planforms always protruded well beyond that of the Leicas. It would be OK for cameras with centre tripod sockets but on the M it caused interference with the grip of the camera on the right hand.

 

I am using the Miniconnect directly attached to lightweight Acratech and either a Gitzo 1028 or 1228. It is very secure and stable all round as the QR stud applies a strong tension to pull the camera body firmly down on the Mini connect base.

 

There is now a more compact base - the Miniconnect MR.

 

http://www.novoflex.de/english/html/products.htm

 

Gerald

I've had much better results with my Nikon SB24/M6 in both the direct and bounce modes, in auto, of course. The SF20 range is too limiting except for a few quick close in snaps. The results are then always too flat for my liking.

9.9. I'm very pleased with mine. No problems with the DX contacts. More plus than minus. But then I have slim fingers.

I enjoy using the 0.85 viewfinder for its slightly larger view and easier focusing. On the strength of my previous experiences with a 0.85 M6, I have now acquired a 0.85 M7. For a long time, I had contemplated the purchase of an external viewfinder for the Summicron 28 mm F2. But, so far, I have found that I can get by without it. My films are scanned nowadays and I don't need to precisely frame my shots on site. In any case, except for aiming and levelling, with fixed focal length lenses, this is usually impractical most of the time.

 

When using the 28 mm on the 0.85 viewfinder I usually do this to check for the approximate lateral coverage in the viewfinder. When the 28 mm lens is fitted, only the 90 mm frame lines will appear.

 

To check for coverage on the right hand side, move your eye slightly to the left until the 90 mm frame lines just disappear. Or if you want to be conservative, allow the right hand side of the 90 mm frame to be just visible. Now, what ever you can see up to the right hand limit of the viewfinder is the extent of the 28 mm lens coverage. Repeat for the left hand side. I find that I have no problems doing this all the time for static shots even with glasses.

 

Do check it out.

 

Gerald

The LS4000ED is a suberb scanner for the price especially the ICE software which saves a lot of time. No problem with frame spacing so far. I don't think it can directly print thumbnails though.

 

The roll feeder, for up to 40 frames, is convenient to use and works very well except for the other end dangling all the way to the floor (no take up spool).

 

Does anyone know a way to splice film to use in the roll feeder? I have hundreds of film cut by the shops to 6 frame pieces.

Call Jebsen & Jessen.