bruce_rubenstein

<blockquote>

<p>...it doesn't seem like a very good use of $2800 worth of camera.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Because we all know the camera is more important than the picture.</p>

<p>A 9 year old P&S camera is probably not a very useful frame of reference for the performance of digital cameras. If the reviews of the RX100 don't answer your questions, then I would suggest going to flicker and doing a search on Sony RX100 and the ISO of interest. You can review 100's, if not 1000's, of actual images taken with the camera.</p>

<p>Motor sports is primarily deterministic motion and not that difficult for AF. (Provided I picked the right angles, I didn't have any trouble shooting at Limerock with a E-M5 & 75/1.8.) Non-deterministic motion like birds in flight, or any flavor of football, is much more difficult. It also shows up refresh rate issues with EVF's. Every tool has its strengths and weaknesses.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You'll occasionally find situations where the optical viewfinder is a better tool.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is a belief, not a truth. P.net is a <em>Big Iron</em> and film site (classic film cameras and medium format forums have more activity than mirrorless cameras). For every person here that actually uses the high end mirrorless there's 20 people who will jump in and tell you to keep the blunderbuss handy, just in case. </p>

<p>There's a good review here: <a href="http://www.lenstip.com/403.1-Lens_review-Tamron_SP_150-600_mm_f_5-6.3_Di_VC_USD_Introduction.html">Lens Tip</a></p>

<p>The type of lens (prime/zoom) effects how likely a lens may need service and its out of box, new performance. Performance variability and reliability are significantly better for prime lenses. (Roger Cicala's lensrentals.com site is probably the only place on the net to get non-anecdotal, statistically significant data on lenses, since they have 100's of the same lenses and test them when they return from rentals.)</p>

<p><em>Out of Box</em> performance is critical regardless of what type of lens you buy. It's easy enough to try the lens out and see if it performs well in the store before buying it, or to bring it back in a couple of days, if needed, before leaving the country. Make sure you can bring the lens back for an exchange or refund.</p>

<p>Ah, the good old days: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Shell">Bob Shell</a></p>

<p>What the world needs is the Ralph Oshiro/ Stepehen Conkie <em>Welcome to my Photo Gear Toy Box Forum.</em></p>

<p>Have the couple give you a print to work from. Return the print and sell them your picture. It's technically no different them having a mug made with their picture on it. Now, if you make pictures based on photo and sell them in a gallery, or you artwork is used for advertizing, that is commercial usage and a violation of the photographer's copyright, because you created a derivative work.</p>

<p>After starting the <em>ISO still the weakess of MFT Format</em> thread one would assume that you are in fact the leading authority on µ4/3.</p>

<p>No. DSLRs need a circular polarizer because the mirror reflects polarized light that may effect metering.</p>

<p>Barry seems to be the only one that understands that the objective here is to unobtrusively take pictures during a piano recital, and not an opportunity to conduct a science fair experiment. It also underscores that this is<em> primarily a boyze with toys</em> photographic equipment site. Not to mention that in initial post the OP states that a blimp is not an option.</p>

<p>There are a number of cameras with silent/quiet shutters and no flapping mirrors that probably have more than good enough IQ for how the images will be used. </p>

<p>Price and value are two different things. The difference is that price is intrinsic to the object being bought, and value is based on perception that is intrinsic to the buyer.</p>

<p>Camera buyers who base their purchasing decisions strictly on a numeric price/performance ratio buy entry level DLSR's and either kit lenses or cheap normal prime lenses.</p>

<p>The FM2n went to aluminum shutter blades in 1989 (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/honeycomb/index.htm). My recollection is that it used the blades from the N8008's shutter. The problem with the titanium shutter is that the pattern was "chemically" machined with with a hazardous chemical, that Nikon was no longer able to use. </p>

<p>Marc shoots terrific images because he has the artistic, visual sense to know what looks good and the technical chops to capture what he wants in the image. Without some concept of how one wants the final image to look, there might as well be a monkey pushing the button.</p>

<p><blockquote><strong> Moderator Comment:</p>

<p> Marc also makes excellent and similarly “results focused” commentaries to this forum. For example the excellent post above where he took up the points that you tried to make but your most aggressive and off putting tone clouded any useful meaning to the OP and others. </p>

<p>The members of the community put this thread back onto the track of professional, civil, social intercourse</p>

<p>References like the ‘monkey’ comment above are un-necessary and make it easy for one to conclude, when taking into account your previous abrasive writing style, that a main intention is to flame the discourse. </p>

<p>This is a warning to please keep your comments: civil. </strong></blockquote></p>

<p>After 35 years of using Pentax and Nikon cameras, my observation is that Nikon and Nikon users pay no attention to Pentax. This new camera is nothing more than a statement by Ricoh that they are a <em>serious </em>camera company.</p>

The two cameras have completely different types of shutters, so any similarities in behavior are coincidental. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose. There is probably a bit of old, dried out lube somewhere, or something was missed on reassembly. You need to find a way to make it fail in a reasonable consistent way.

 

BTW, if it really from the end of the FM2n's production, it won't have the honeycomb titanium shutter blades. It will have smooth aluminum blades.

<p><em>Tool for the job</em> doesn't mean anything if the <em>job</em> doesn't include a context for how an image will be used. The joy of pixel peeping at 200% isn't making a print of some specific size, or posting on the web.</p>

<p>The only appeal to this tread is that this is a gear site and $40k worth of gear was used. Ugly images aren't a <em>technical detail</em> for photographers, although it may be for Boyz with Toys.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>It's also about satisfying the client.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Where's the satisfied client? How much did this <em>satisfied </em>client pay anyway? </p>

<p>I'm sorry, but this a an example of <em>you can buy toys, but not talent</em>. The tow isle shots look like they were done with a P&S with direct on camera flash. !/250 sec @ISO 800? The church interior is a black hole. You had a camera that could have been set to record the ambient light at -1 stop and used bounced on camera flash to bring up the exposure on the subjects in the foreground. Since the flash freezes motion, 1/60 sec. would have prevented motion blur from the ambient.</p>

<p>You probably spent more on your lighting then most people spend on their gear in a life time, but someone who who knew what they were doing, could have done better with a Vivitar 283. Shooting a wedding isn't amusing yourself with toys.</p>

<p>With the new firmware the E-M5 can use large or small AF area AF boxes; the same as the E-PL5 and later cameras. The zoom AF box size, used in conjunction with the touch screen, can be controlled by either one of the top dials or a touch slider on the LCD. I think you have to go into the zoom mode first to do it. I assigned zoom mode to the Fn1 button.</p>

<p>Hit any one of the direction pads on the 4-way controller, then the Info button - use the up/down button on the 4-way controller to change the AF selection boxes.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'll probably be CTO'ing my on-camera Speedlight during the reception (and balancing the camera to tungsten), but haven't decided if I want the backlight to go blue, or if I should correct that as well so that it photographs white.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Primary subjects should be color correct (accurate skin tones). Gel the background light so it goes warm and creates separation between the main subjects and the background. Unless, of course, you don't want the viewer's eye to be drawn to the primary subject. </p>

<p>You should really light paint your equipment cart and give the couple a 30" print so they know they really got a lot of photography for their money.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Has anyone here experienced the problem?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, but not all that often starting with firmware v1.1. I've found <em>blur issues</em> with all my Olympus bodies at certain shutter speeds when IBIS is on. </p>

<p>Ming Thein seems to have the <a href="http://blog.mingthein.com/2014/04/01/new-olympus-e-m1-firmware/">best info</a> on this feature.</p>