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lars ake vinberg

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Posts posted by lars ake vinberg

  1. Geoff,

     

    The leap is not in format change but in shooting style. Suddenly nothing is automatic or electronic. Eventually you will know your checklist by heart, but it takes some practice getting there. An SLR can be very forgiving, whereas your new view camera won't. The reward is in the successful images.

  2. Survival kit depends on location and type of equipment used. 8x10 needs its own little toolbox but I'm seldom far away from the car, whereas the 6x9 can go anywhere. Sweden is generally safe, no need for precautions for snake bites or scorpion stings.

     

    Multi-tool (I have Swiss-Tool and a leatherman micra). Duct tape. Superglue. Bathroom tissue in a plastic bag (never leave trash behind). Compass, of course. Palm PDA with sunset calculator and tide calculator, perhaps not really a survival tool. Flashlight - the new LED-based lights are amazingly efficient. Spare batteries to my light meter - I learned my lesson once. One large plastic garbage bag for sudden rain. A few business cards.

     

    Definitely a mobile phone (contrary to Struan's statement above, I find coverage here in Sweden to be excellent, but I guess it depends on where you go and which operator is used). Charged spare battery to mobile phone.

     

    And (OT), starting this week - the product code for the key to my lug nut locks... Got a flat last week, could not find the key, No details, but it got more than a bit expensive...

     

    Finally, I'm sure that carbon fiber tripod makes for excellent firewood - another advantage over metal tripods ;-)

  3. I use Cokin X-Pro with a Schneider 150 XL (95mm thread, 112mm with CF).

     

    I sometimes use the 150XL with CF plus one grad plus polarizer. I have found that the 112mm adapter ring actually limits the image circle somewhat (only a problem on 8x10 with movements), so I am now using Cokin's universal adapter with rubber bands to tie it to the lens. In this setup, the grad actually is in contact with the the CF front thread ring, so I have to be a little careful not to scratch the Cokin filter. Cokin's polarizer is great (118mm glass diameter).

     

    My main complaint with Cokin is that the assortment of ND grads is limited to three filters (approx. 0.3 semi-hard edge, 0.6 semi-hard edge, 0.9 soft edge toned over the entire filter). It would be nice to have a more complete range to choose from (soft, semi-hard, hard, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9, 1.2). Also, the hard Cokin edge is more like Lee's soft edge, making it unuseable for longer focal lengths which means I have to bring two grad systems.

     

    In answer to Bill's questions:

     

    1) I do not notice any serious color cast, but putting a Hitech, a Lee, and a Cokin filter on the light table it is obvious that they all have slightly different color casts. Which one is more neutral I am not sure.

     

    2) Check with the movie industry?

     

    3) How anyone can suggest using Lee or 4x6" on these superwide coverage lenses is beyond me, as 4" or 100mm won't even cover the front of the lens, and even less so when the wide angle of view is taken into account.

     

    4) Haven't tried that with grads, sounds awkward (although my 150XL does have a rear 62mm thread).

     

    5) You are probably correct.The X-Pro grads do have a softer transition than other systems, when measured over the same physical unit.

  4. I have now loaded up my Super Trekker AW II and used it over the weeked for hikes up to two miles. My entire 8x10 gear, as well as the 6x9 cm gear, went inte the Super Trekker, loaded weight with tripod is 26.5 kgs (about sixty pounds).

     

    While I have not used the previous version of the Super Trekker (which means I am not actually answering the original poster's question here), I can say that I really like this backpack. The harness is close to top notch. When I first saw the waistband I thought it might be a bit on the soft side, but that turned out not to be a problem, at least not yet. Balance is great both uphill and downhill, the load can be pulled tightly to the back. All harness straps are easily adjusted while wearing the pack.

     

    My one gripe is the two pockets supplied (one "lens pocket" and one "accessory pocket"). The zipper opens along the side so that when the pack is lying down on the ground, harness down, and the zipper is opened, things fall out of the pockets. I would have liked a solution with the zipper facing up when the pack is lying down. That would mean that the packets would be asymmetrical, though, and likely more costly to manufacture (a left-side and a right-side version).

     

    I have no opinion on the supplied daypack except it is too small for my needs. It would have been nice if there were attachment points on the front of the shoulder straps of the main pack for attaching the daypack. There are Sliplock attachment points, but no hooks for the daypack or similar.

     

    Compared to my previous 8x10 pack, the Super Tracker is a vast improvement. It has more capacity, feels lighter, is better built. It is too large for "just" an 8x10 and three lenses, but I want to bring my 6x9 gear as well. If the Photo Trekker and Pro Trekker are as well built then they should be perfect packs for 4x5 up to 8x10.

  5. I am trying to find a few replacement darkslides for my Fidelity 8x10

    film holders, preferably at a lower price than USD $35 each that one

    store in Stockholm asked (I paid $25 each for the film holders used).

     

    Any suggestions appreciated.

  6. Joakim, Gustav, Ian,

     

    As Per mentioned, we have some thoughts on arranging an LF landscape photography workshop on Gotland next summer. Our current discussions are focused on a free workshop, which will of course limit the level of service provided. However, we feel that one important goal with the workshop would be to allow local photographers to meet and mingle, and exchange thoughs and ideas.

     

    I will spend most of July and August in Visby this summer, anyone who wants to join me for a few hours of shooting or just meet and discuss LF is of course welcome to contact me.

     

    Ian, if you have specific requirements on the caliber and type of teachers then feel free to come up with suggestions and we will see what we can do. The possibilities for a free workshop will however be somewhat limited.

  7. I made a little cardboard ruler with markings for every 1/3 stop compensation, with I place at the sublject and view through the groundglass. The markings compare to the centimeter-grid of the groundglass, and are not dependent upon focal length.

     

    Works great except when it is not possible to put the ruler at the subject.

  8. Color or B/W?

     

    For color I use a 240 Apo-Symmar. It's a bit bulky and heavy - I bought it because I wanted a f/5.6 lens. In retrospect, it's very bright on the groundglass, which is great, but an f/9 would have been enough for me, and more than a pound less weight.

     

    The 240 is very sharp and contrasty, though. I really like its angle of view - slightly wide but not distorting and not too wide for using a polarizer on a clear blue sky. The image circle of the 240 Apo-Symmar is sufficient but not great, so I have found the cut corners on the groundglass very helpful to check for vignetting.

     

    The Fuji 240/9 seems to have a loyal following, perhaps it is worth considering.

     

    The 150 SSXL is a bit tricky to filter - with color you'll want the center filter with a 112mm filter thread. It does have a 62mm rear thread, but for ND grads or polarizers on the CF, the only solution that I am aware of that doesn't vignet badly is COkin X-Pro. It is a fantastic lens though.

     

    Hope this helps,

  9. Oops, the GX comment was directed to Simon, not Robert.

     

    Simon, regarding Vs contrast I really have not found it to be a problem (for my uses - landscape late/early light). I friend of mine even likes to plusprocess VS one or two stops to boost saturation.

  10. Robert,

    I have to agree with James on VS - it's awesome when it comes to warm colors, great tonality in saturated yellows and reds. It's really worth trying.

     

    Do you have the emulsion number of your bad GX?

     

    BTW, I asked at a local pro store here in Stockholm about Velvia 100F, but salesman just gave me a sceptical look and wondered what I was talking about.

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