jose_angel

I used with a DLC45 the 1227 with an Arca Swiss B1. But I don't like

how the ball head works with this camera. Now I have an old Gitzo

pan/tilt head, (I think is an older version of the 1172, but lighter,

I look for the really lightest system) and works better for me. I'm

reading now about the Manfrotto 410 head with its geared mechanism,

the idea sounds very good. I love how the Arca Swiss B1 works with my

35mm macro system and MF.

What about the L508 Cine version? Is this version better than the

older L508?

I found some information in www.mppusers.freeuk.com . Good luck. Jose

Angel.

Could somebody give me some info about the Rodenstock Ysaron 210mm. enlarging lens? ( Age, lenses/groups, max.f/., coating...)Opinions about the quality/results welcomed. Thanks.

I would like to know some things about the omega d4 enlarger. It's difficult to find information about this model (I find on the web about d, d2, d3 and d5 and something of the d6). Why? Doesn't it a good enlarger? (like the famous d2V, I mean) Age? Alignment capabilities? Opinions about the AF system? Problems?

What's the real max. neg. size of the d4? (model d is

6-3/8"). Lensboards (tubes), neg. carriers, condenser head are compatible between d and d4, perhaps with d5?

Perhaps somebody knows the MPP 5x7 enlarger. It looks so similar than the d4, how does it works? MPP vs D4? The same questions of the above.

I will be very pleased to read your opinions. Thanks.

I think it's a good idea to share the compendium attachment system

with Arca-Swiss. I'm so satisfied with my DLC, and this is a new

posibility, unknown to me. Thank you, Larry, for your information.

Thank you all for your answers. The conclusion I read is that the

best and cheapest system is the kitchen count-down timer (I never

thought on it). The most critical times for me are two, four or eight

seconds, and I can see that I use a similar system like some of you,

the "precision finger system". I'm glad to read your contibutions to

this forum.

Could somebody told me the reason of a threaded hole on the front frame, at the rigth side of the spirit level, in my DLC45? It's for an accesory? Perhaps a better spirit level? For an special viewfinder? Compendium lensshade attachment? Shoulder strap? Umbrella...? My psichoanalyst tell me that it's a threaded hole without significance, but I-need-to-know-why-I-have-this-hole-in-this-place to be myself again.TTThankks!!

Any suggestion about a precise time control in long exposures ? I use a sports chronometer, but I know that some people use mechanical self-timers; could somebody recomend me the best ones? Electronic self-timers for LF? I have only copal shutters. Thanks.

Joel, that's the response I need. Thanks a lot. Only one more

question; Why could be desirable a lower temperature lihgt source?

Could it be better for enlarging in VC papers?

Kevin, I'm interested also in homemaking a cold light box for an old

5x7 enlarger; I have found a lot of different fluorescent tubes, in

different sizes, all of the same name brand, Philips, G. Electric or

Osram. I have seen one really cold (cold color, blue) only available

in big tubes, another cold also but less than the first one (blue-

green) and the third have more yellow, is a bit hot (green-yellow).

The rest of the tubes are hotter, from yellow to red; I understand

that the photographic papers are sensibles specially to blue light,

the coldest the color of the light, the shortest the time of

exposure. In addition, I think we need a instant starting device for

the tubes, and a stabilizer could help also. It's difficult or

impossible to find in my city (Madrid, Spain)light sources like the

Aristo or Zone VI, I'm obliged to build my own difusion head. I'm not

an expert, the opinion of a tecnician will be great. If you want to

share some ideas, don't doubt to send me an e-mail.

James, thank you for your dedication.

Then, I understand that I can use either of this three DOF tables

with anyone of the formats, depending of the desired results, isn't

it?

Another question: Could I see differences in sharpness between two

8x10 contact prints, one with a COC of 0.3mm. and another with a COC

of 0.1mm. (or less)? (Examining the prints on the hands, without

loupe) I'm thinking to homebuild a 8x10 P&S camera. Suggestions are

welcomed...

Could someone explain to me why we can find diferent Depth-of-Field Tables (4x5, 5x7, 8x10) in the schneider' web page

(www.schneideroptics.com) for a 210mm. lens ?

I can't understand why the same focusing distance could give diferent dephts of field in the diferent formats of this tables. Ex.: 210mm. lens, f/4, we can read 128ft. to 447ft. in 4x5 and 94ft. to infinity in 8x10. Could it refers to a diferent 210', (like an apo-symmar in 5x7 and a super-symmar in 8x10)?

I'll be thankful for any help. Jose.