mike3

Yes, from NW of Chicago.

 

Mike

Save your money and take the two small steel balls out of your Paterson reels. Use your thumbs to hold the film while racheting it into the reel. I've loaded hundreds of rolls this way with zero problems.

 

Another note is that if humidity gets high, like in a small changing bag, loading will become very difficult as the gelatin gets tacky.

I've noticed the same thing with XTOL and fresh T Fixer with FP4. I've been testing FP4 lately and FB+F is .09-.10 with the red tint, which all things being equal, is about right. I'm not a super expert but I can't get rid of it and it does not seem to matter. (However, with T Max films, which I won't use anymore, this signaled exhausted fixer for me.)

50 and don't know if I've ever seen someone else using an LF outside

of a studio. I hide out with my cameras in the country.

I own an 8x10 Expedition and the camera works well but their warranty

service is truly a nightmare. They have had my camera for 4 months

and almost every week we get a new promise date and a different

excuse for it not having been repaired and not sent back the previous

promised date. I'm wondering if I will ever get it returned???

Ed,

 

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You are doing a great job...keep it going. There are a number of

sites to go to if people want to be sarcastic or condescending with

people of similar attitude it does not need to be here. I go here

for help and information to improve my craft and when possible help

someone out if I have been through their problem. It would be too

bad if "new blood" was turned away by old hands as it dimishes us

all. Like it or not, it is the inquisitive new blood with redundent

questions containing insufficient information that will carry the

medium forward into the future. And who knows what will come out of

these questions? Old threads and conventional wisdom are great but

new ideas and information occur daily.

Thanks to all for your help.

 

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Mike

Have a new 8x10 with 2 lenses, Schneider 150mm wide angle and 480mm, and am trying to sort out the options for filters. Most, if not all, film will be B/W. Screw in filters for the front are 95mm and 105mm and the rear threads are 62mm and 90mm. An unlucky combination of sizes (none of which match filter collections I already have) as I would like to have 8-10 filters per lens which is 16-20 filters to buy and carry. Which brings me to slip ins with which I have no experience. Recommendations? Holders, in front or behind and brand? Gel or glass?

 

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Thanks in advance,

 

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Mike

I am having a difficult time determining the differnce between HC110 and Tmax/Tmax RS developers in terms of if they have any different effects on negative characteristics when used to develop Tmax 100 film. Also, how do the two developers compare when it comes to N+/N- development. From a convenience point I would like to switch to HC110 as the recommended temperature for N+/N- is 68 degrees which is the temperature in my darkroom and the Tmax is 75 degrees which means I have to go to alot of effort to maintain the temperature especially for tray development of sheets.

 

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Thanks in advance.

I will find a similar problem if not careful loading 120 in the sun

and also if I do not roll the finished roll very tight. The first

case affects the beginning of the roll and the later affects the end.

I've had the same problem with paterson reels on 120 and have found

two solutions.

First is to cut a radius on each of the two corners of the beginning

of the film which prevents the leading edges from getting caught on

the "spokes" of the reel.

The second is to remove the two steel balls with a pair of needle

nose pliers from the outside. This defeats the so called auto

loading feature which means that you need to feed the film as you

rachet by using your thumbs. In 100+ rolls of film I have yet to see

any marks from using my thumbs.

 

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I've damaged no film and had no loading problems since I made these

changes.

 

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Best

 

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mike