peter_mcdonough

Hi William,

I use the Bostick/Sullivan Ziatype process to make Chrysotypes. I merely substitute 5% gold chloride, from B&S, for Pt/Pd. I like Lithium Feric Oxalate with the gold. The temp/humidity should be in the 65% to 80% area. To tone down the contrast, use 40% Tungsten also from B/S.

Good luck.

Peter

Hi Andrew,

I had the 75CV and got rid of it. Wide open it was very mushy and about as sharp as the plastic lens on a cheap Instamatic. It was flare-prone as well. I would never recommend it, based on my experience.

Peter

Hi.

Some of your metal may have come out of solution. Are you warming the Pt/Pd before applying?

Peter

Hi Andrew,

You might try making your own by buying an acromat from Edmund Scientific. You could attatch it to the front of your shutter.

Peter

Hi,

60/40 sounds fair. My gallery is 50/50.

Peter

Very nice shot, Robert.

Peter

Hi WP,

I had the German 35-70 and it wobbled. The image was unaffected, as far as I could ascertain. Considering the $1100.00 price, it should have been rock solid.

Petet

Hi Jeff,

The red dot is a coated, newer lens. The plain apo may or may not be coated. Most of them started out uncoated and were later coated. Both are optimized for 1:1 unless they were mounted in a shutter. When mounting, many owners had them re-optimized for 1:15, or so. I had an apo that was coated before mounting and re-optimized for 1:18. It was a very sharp lens and had beautiful tonal characteristics.

Best of luck, Jeff.

Peter

I'm confused, whether I am inserting the lens onto the body or removing it from the body, it is in the same position. Isn't it?

Peter

Hi Everybody,

I was also dissappointed in this month's issue of VC. What most suprised me was the extensive article on: The Photography of Thomas Struth: Precise & Analytical, But Not Without Heart. I initially thought it was a very tongue in cheek humor piece. When I realized it wasn't, I was angry. I realized if people are paying hundreds of thousand dollars for what I consider amaturish nonsense, perhaps I should give my rejects a second and maybe third look. The fact that the writing in the article was so poor, disappointed me as well. Too much postmodern bullshit.

Peter

Hi Jerry,

There is. I had the T adapter for Tamron's 17mm lens. I used it on my R-8. Try B&H.

Peter

I won't buy anything made in China until they leave Tibet.

Peter

Hi Amine,

I have a 240 f/9 Apo-nikkor that Steve Grimes machined so that it fits into a #3 shutter. I use it on my 8x10. It covers with no problem.

Peter

Ditto on the Alpa10d. The rewind is by far the best on any camera I have used. Ditto also on the Macro-Switar: 60x90 inch prints that are razor sharp.

Peter

Ditto on the Alpa 10d. The rewind is strong, smooth and quick. It is the best rewind I have ever seen . Ditto also on the Macro-Switar; by far the sharpest lens I have ever used-razor-sharp 60x90 in. prints.

Peter

Hi Jason,

I have a symmetrical wide angle that had waterhouse stops from appx f/16 to f/64. When I had it removed from its original housing and mounted into a shutter, the aperture was increased to f/5.6. At this increased aperture a great deal of spherical aberration was introduced. The resulting image displayed a beautiful glow and softened appearance. Stopping down eliminated this effect. Without the brass stop your lens may be brighter but softer. Stopping it down would correct the softness.

Peter

Hi George,

Thanks for your post. I responded to Wisner's two for one film deal and never received the film. when the film failed to arrive I sent a number of emails but heard nothing in return. After a couple of months of silence I emailed them to cancel the order and...didn't hear a thing. I had considered buying one of their 8x10's, but am seroiusly reconsidering.

Peter

Hi Marc,

I have the 8x10 Tach. and use the one knob forward and one knob back routine. That, of course, is when the knobs are on the camera. They have a tendency to fall off at odd times. IMHO, the camera is a poorly constructed piece of junk. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

Peter

Hello,

I've been using TP for years with great results. I give it a two min. soak in water, drain, and pour in the Technidol. Agitation is per Kodak. I've never used the Kodak method but have nevertheless gotten great negatives. The watersoak has also eliminated streaking problems with 120TP as well.Good luck.

Peter

Hi Robert,

It is the worst film I have ever used: not sharp, muddy colors and very flat. This opinion I am basing on the two rolls I recently shot. I'd be interested to hear what others think.

Peter

Hi Everyone,

All this talk about rewind cranks reminds me that the best rewind crank, without a doubt, is the one on later Alpa SLR'S. It lifts up and forms a parallelogram that distributes the energy of rewinding so well, it is nearly effortless. Too bad the shutters weren't built as well.

Peter

Hi,

I shoot it at 200 and develop it in Rodinal: 1:85 for nine minutes at 75*. Comes out beautiful.

Peter

Hi John,

I've used Microdol 1:3 at 75* for Tri-x rated at 320 with excellent results. Microdol straight is very mushy in appearance. It is also not the developer to be using for pushing film. It reduces the ISO rather than increases it.

Peter