aki_dick

I got the chance to use a friends FM2 with three different lenses and

one of them, a Nikkor 24/2.8 shows some malfunction.<br>

When pressing the DOF preview button the aperture stays closed even

after I release the button and it is not possible to release the

shutter. Instead after pressing the shutter button I have to press

again the DOF preview button and then the camera will release the

shutter.<br>The camera body got a CLA just a few weeks ago and seems

OK so far. The other two lenses (a 50/1.4 and a 135? whatever) don't

show this failure and operate normal.<br>When detached from the body

the aperture and the lever of the mentioned 24mm lens work normally.

Also while being stuck it is possible to move the aperture ring and

change the aperture.<p>I admit that usually I am a confident user of

Canon FD gear and this is the first Nikon I used for years (...maybe I

shoudn't make such a confession...), therefor I can't specify the type

of lens (Ai, AiS or AS or so??), but I attached a picture of the lens

(it's one of those with silverish aperture ring and that funny little

nose close to the mount.)<p>I appreciate any help - especially as a

non-typical NIkon User :-)

I allowed myself the luxury of some sloppiness with some recent film

developments and there I go.<br>

So how can I remove lime stains from negatives? I think just another

wash in water woun't dissolve the stains.<br>Swearing didn't help, I

tried that first. Please any advise.

Since the re-design of PN the number of postings in the General (non

archived) Forum have gone down to almost nothing. I assume the reason

is because it is not present in the drop down menu anymore.<br>The

obvious answer will be "it's still there boy", but its degree of

utilization seems to be gone. Even though there was a lot of bla-bla

there, it was the best forum for bla-bla that you don't want to see

archived for the next 45.000 years in the leica-forum...<br>I will

miss this piece of yellow press in PN.

Just to keep the tradition of antithesis alive here: it does look fine in Rodinal, very fine + sharp grain in 35mm and i've got some grain-free prints in 10 x 10 from roll film.

"Another question...Years ago (living in the past again) I heard that the F1N will provide Aperature Priority exposure with the standard finder, you just won't have the shutter speed scale on the bottom. Is there any truth to this?"<p>Yes, true.

I remember a thread in this forum maybe a year or two ago about high speed bw-film / pushed medium speed films where Lex wrote a long column about loss of shadow detail in undeveloped film within a month worth of about one zone compared to immediately developed films.<br>While he was refering to film speed of ASA 1600 and + you should not face any problems with fading images within a couple of weeks with Neopan 400 exposed at 400 or lower. I had some left in my camera up to almost half a year prior finishing the roll and developing without problems.

Awww, c'mon. This could be a presentiment of the new transatlantic alliances kerry is asking for if he gets the job...

Just a short question before I mess up the results of three days

work. Is there any reason why I should not develop 120 film Tri-X and

APX100 together in one tank. Both need 13 min in Rodinal 1+50 (for EI

400 and EI 100)<br>Also both release plenty of anti-halation in the

pre-soak; will this affect anything?<br>Thank you in advance.

Thank you so far for the input.<br>I was aware of the ML-1 but while totally unexperienced with macro-flash I still thought a more circular arrangement of the flash tubes would serve my needs for larger distances better than a horizontal one.

While looking through the manuals of the Canon ML-2 and ML-3 I noticed

that both are designed for the T90.<br>The latter seems to work only

with TTL but the ML-2 offers two manual modes with Hi- an

Lo-output.<br>Can I use the ML-2 in manual mode with the F1N?<br>Or

maybe any off-brand suggestion?<br>I'm planing to use them for

portrait shots + close-ups, not real macro stuff.<br>Thanks in advance

for any help.

While most of my subjects require a tripod the very few times I used my C220 handheld I've tried a very short neckstrap, that brings the viewfinder close to the face. By pulling the camera down + tightening the strap it works quite well to hold the camera still enough.

I never used the Ftb, but here is my experience with the T70:<br>You shouldn't worry about the plastic feel of the camera, it is quiet solid build. Mine got battered, rained on, roasted at 60°C, wallowed in dust and never failed to work properly.<br>It offers both average and selective metering and it's smaller and lighter than the F-series models by Canon, and it runs by two simple AA batteries that are available in every corner of this planet.<br>What made me leaving it at home in favor of a F1 is: cumbersome manual operation, no DOF-preview and the horrible noise that comes along with winding, rewinding, bleeping and whatever...though I have to admit that the mirror slap of the F1 is by no means any more quiet.<br>As you mentioned some rather long and heavy lenses you will use; the mounting ring at the camera tends to get loose with heavy glasses, but this can be fixed by gluing the four screws that hold the ring on the body.

Me too uses the the Manfrotto 190, small enought to take (almost) anywhere and stury enough for my TLR and my occasionally occurring carelessness.<br>I recently changed the similar brand 141rc head with their geared 410, this added 1kg to the unit but I can live with that for the finer movements.

I've noticed a problem of the winding mechanism in my C220 while

shooting the last film two days ago.<br>When winding to the next frame

the button stops (as usual) but then there is a sound and a feeling as

some gearwheels slip.<br>The developed film shows uneven spacing

between the frames, no overlapping but rather too much space.<p>I

would like to fix it myself. Can anybody share some information about

disassembling the camera or maybe this problem in particular? Must I

remove the coating to reach the screws?<br>Or is my plan not very

advisable due to a overwhelming complex mechanism and I should leave

this to a repair shop?

Fixed focal lenght lenses are generally supposed to show better performance than zoom lenses.<br>I can't tell you any resolution details because I don't like zooms, but this is just my personal taste.<br>Approx. one third of all web sites on earth must be dealing with lens resolution tests, so just go to the link mentioned below for some sites dedicated to fd lenses.<p>http://www.canonfd.com/links.htm<p>In the middle of the page there is a list with "C. Sites dedicated to Canon lenses"

While I agree with Mark that I wouldn't be shure about the compatibility of a T-series flash with a new EOS the answer to your initially question is simple:<br>Your 199t does not have ANY sync speed at all.<br>Sync speed is determinated by the camera body. So if your A1 has 1/60 sync-speed use that speed. If your 7E has 1/125 use that speed.<p>Check your A1 manual to see if the camera does enable slow sync.<br>If you don't have a maual go here:<br>www.canonfd.com<br>BTW you can get a manual for the 199t there aswell.<br>If you want to use slow sync with the 7e set the flash switch for slow sync and use any shutter speed between Bulb up to 1/125 on your camera.

Has been subject of a thread not too long ago:<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007Dyq

Last summer I went to south east Anatolia and had a f1.4/50 and a f2.8/28 with me.<br>Except for a few shots I only used the 28 and (again except for a few shots...) always wished I had a 24 or a 85.<p>If you take two lenses think about getting a second body, changing lenses 50 times a day is a pain in the a**...

Neopan 400 with Rodinal was and still is my new-to-developing combo (well, semi-new..., its half a year now and dozens of rolls...)<br>Some observations in no particular order:<p>Usually I rate the film at 250 and use a dilution of either 1+25 or 1+50, depending on astral moods, schizophrenic onsets and other uncomprehensible influences. (Times according to the Massive Dev Chart)<p>With 35 mm this gives a very accentuated, extreme sharp grain. Beautiful for portraits, though not shure yet if I really like it for every other purpose.<p>With 1+25 this grain seems more well-defined than with 1+50.<p>1+50 seems to give better separation of midtones.<p>I haven't tested the true speed of the film but I did not notice that much difference between ASA 400 and 250 when done in Rodinal 1+25.<p>Hope this helps.

Usually yes. See here:<br>

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

By pushing film you expose it at a higher exposure index than written on the package.<br>You take a ISO 400 film, set your camera or meter for ISO 800 and afterwards you develop the film longer than required. Et voila you have done a push.<p>The desireable effects are somewhat undesireable at the same time: emphasized grain, higher contrast.<p>So if you want to do grainless portraits I'd rather suggest pulling the film (setting a lower ISO and developing shorter), but if you don't develop the negs yourself you'll get pretty random results back from the lab.<br>You could use chromogenic bw films like Kodak CN400 or Ilford XP2, they can be processed at any lab and are supposed to be very fine grained.

Wow, if I didn't knew better that it ain't that bad, from that pictures how to load the A12 I would expect to get all my fingers broken...

They have a web site with processing data:<p>http://www.frugalphotographer.com/processing_instructions.htm#Exposing%20and%20processing%20Efke%20films.

Yes, you can use the 299t with the T70. It's the better choice than the 277t, more power and you can bounce and rotate the head almost like your own.<br>For a 0$-online manual go here:<br>http://www.canonfd.com/299ind.htm

Digital fever thermometers are not really suitable for developing for some reasons.<br>First their range woun't go down to 20°C or less, second you don't get a constant metering result, instead you'll have to switch it on after every use.<p>Analog thermometers that suit b/w needs are not that expensive, they'll probably woun't cost more than twice as a fever thermometer.<br>Hama has two or three different models all for less than EUR 10,-