hellobob

DISREGARD, PLEASE. INCORRECT QUESTION. DISREGARD!

It seems as though when Nikon d800 is set in commander mode and Nikon strobe sb 910 is set on remote, the flash from camera body is lighting the subject and firing the sb910. How should this be set so that on body flash only fires the off body flash and does not effect light on subject?

Shooting live performances, once in a while the photographer is getting distortion of body parts such as arms and hands. The lenses in use are 50mm 1.4 and 24-70 2.8 and shooting from between 20-60 feet from stage. The distortion is mainly of arms longer than they actually are and sometimes bent in impossible angles. Less common is distortion of hands being elongated. Photographer knows not to use a wide angle lens so when using the 24-70 the photographer tries to keep the zoom at approximately 50 mm or longer. and not to shoot at a plane level not even with the performers. Photographer knows not to get too close to performers and not to get below them pointing upwards. Photographer would use a longer focal length such as 85mm or 105mm but full stage shots are necessary to include all performers in the image and the longer focal lengths would not allow for full stage images. Photos are shot during performance and are not staged. Any helpful suggestions on technique to avoid distortion is much appreciated.

Thanks for thoughts, gentlemen. Ben, I like the photo. It is memorable and really draws the viewer in. Nice. Mark: Great idea on what to do with savings. I'm assuming the Tokina you mention is a full frame which is what the gist of my post worked itself into. I"ve got the Sb910 and a 2nd speedlight would come in very handy in travel if I wanted to capture more interiors of hotel room which I always do upon arrival and for these r.estate interior shoots. Peter & bgelfand, this is a regular gig so purchase would be the way to go for me. Thanks all. And Orsetto, do you think this flare would affect my work as lens would be strictly for interior use with ambient light and artificial lights as the light sources?

Great advice, gentlemen. I have no problem adding the Nikkor 14-24 2.8 to my arsenal if the roi ($1700+- lens) works into the black in bottom line which I am estimating will be the case soon. Thanks much.

Thank you three for your responses. Yes, 4800 x 3200 is what will be acceptable and a Nikkor may be in the future. Learning is always a good thing.

I have a new job and must create full size images 7360 x 4912 using a dx lens on D-800 body. Can't seem to set camera properly. I get vignetting with menu settings of: image quality>raw (the job requires raw), image area set to Auto DX crop either on or off and all of the image area-choose image area settings. Does anyone know how to set body menu with a DX lens (happens to be Sigma 10-20 F4) so my image is captured at 7360 X 4912? I've been adjusting menu items: IMAGE AREA (Auto DX crop and Choose image area) but cannot obtain the size required. Thanks for all replies.

<p>Colin O, I'm in the USA. Thanks all for your recommendation(s).</p>

<p>I need to find a good quality post card printing company/manufacturer to use my photos for sale on postcards. Of course I expect to be able to add caption on blank side of card and other info such as my copyright. Any recommendations on a reliable post card company from other photogs who have used a good source?<br> The cards will retail for about $2 and I imagine I'll be buying about 100 each to start of 12 or so different photos.</p>

<p>Thank you, MIchael. Problem solved. This camera can be somewhat frustrating but you seem to know it well. I hate to bother your with another ?? but do you know how to adjust power of fl 300 flash off body? I do food photography with nikon sb910 off body and have developed a "style" but cannot seem to generate enough power with the fl300 Oly taking into account one cost close to $600usa and the other was a promo with the body.</p>

<p>All of a sudden, on Omd-em1 the dials don't do what I want them to do. I want them to adjust the shutter and the other dial, control the aperture. Now I get a screen I have no use for: it switches between white balance on the bottom of screen and iso on top of screen.<br> Very frustrating. How do I get the body to return to the layout where one dial controls shutter and one f-stop with a live view that shows what the adjustments I'm making will look like? Please!!!!So frustrating that it may be worth it to lug the big Nikon rather than the omd em1!</p>

<p>I'm laying out a template using Photoshop cs3 for use to change the images in the template boxes. This is for theater production photogrpahy. Each template will have 3 boxes: one for a headshot of the actor, one for a cast shot and one for a listing of the show/date/production. What size print would anyone recommend for the whole print to contain the 3 different images bearing in mind that I want to create a print size that would make it easy for the purchaser to find a frame to fit the print. One suggestion has been to create an 8X10 and put the cast photo horizontally to fill the bottom which would be approximately 4X10 and then put the headshot on top left at 4x5 and the show details on top right at 4x5,all taking off a fraction for spacing. Does anyone suggest something like an 6x12 which would accommodate 3 images, each 6 high X 4 wide....One factor to bear in mind is the availability and price of a frame to hold these sizes. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.</p>

<p>Just as an update and to help anyone with same problem in the future, I uninstalled (remember to deactivate so you can reinstall with no problem) and reinstalled. The program did not install properly but after doing the install a couple of times, it finally worked but then Bridge did not work. Found Adobe download for Bridge and some patches and after a few downloads, now the CS3 is working beautifully. Ok, I hope this may help someone in the future.</p>

<p>Yes, this is all what I expected to hear. The old honor system will have to apply.</p>

<p>I'm a theater photographer and I sell photos of the shows I photograph on my Smugmug hosted website.I want to create a promotion so that anyone who buys either an 8x10 print or a certain dollar amount can then download at a promo price the complete show from which they have made a purchase. After they make the purchase, I would send them a code in order to download the complete show for a promotional and reasonable price. Does anyone operate like this or does anyone have any suggestions as to how to protect the downloads so that one person who buys the downloads does not pass on the downloads to anyone else? As I see it now, if Mr. Jones buys the photo and then qualifies to buy whole show at a low price, they could just pass on the downloads to anyone else bypassing my rightful sale.<br> Any suggestions or ideas as to how you might or do this type of a promo and safeguard your work?</p>

<p>I must finish a job in 2 days so I guess I'll unistall and reinstall and hope there are no problems and that bridge will work properly.</p>

<p>Just forced to move to windows 10 last week. The problem existed while using Windows 8.1 also.</p>

<p>Thank you for your response but the problem is greater than just picture orientation. As I try to rename a whole folder of 600 photos, the system shuts down saying "Bridge is no longer working". Very frustrating. Any other suggestions?</p>

<p>I'm using Photoshop CS3 and having problems with bridge. It stops working constantly and closes. Images shot in vertical (portrait) orientation show up as horizontal and must be manually corrected. Is there a fix for this such as uninstall and reinstall or is the program just too old that it's time to upgrade? It is a legal version that I did purchase.</p>

<p>For some reason I cannot insert the connector on ML-3 remote receiver into the 10 point receptacle on both D800 and D300. I assume I may have bent a pin. If that is the case, is there a proper way to straighten the pin(s) so I can insert? Or do you think there is a different problem? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Thanks, Wouter: I figured out the problem. Simple mistake on my part. If you are not using Bridge, what do you use to add metadata such as descripts/keywords/titles/copyright? Remember, I am using cs3.</p>

<p>I am submitting photos in jpeg format to online stock photo agencies via ftp using Filezilla.<br> The photos are uploading ok but some of them are missing titles, keywords, descriptions all of which I have added in "file info" in Photoshop cs3. At times if I bring up the photos after adding all the descripts/keywords/etc. a second time from Bridge to cs3 and then close photo in cs3, the info will upload with all words but OFTEN the info is missing in the upload. How can I correct this? I am ftp-ing the images to sites such as Shutterstock and Istock and Dreamstime where my images are sold. Thank you.</p>

<p>Yes, I agree with you Wayne, it probably has to do with the electronics but my point was with little use, this should not happen.<br> I tend to doubt Olympus will acquiesce and repair at 'their cost' but I'll certainly try.</p>

<p>Thanks, Jerry: just a bummer that omd em1 should croak after bit over one year of use. I assume warrantee is only 1 year. Probably did not even hit shutter more than 2500-3500 times.<br> This should not happen so quickly and with little use.<br> The fee you mention is somewhat palatable unlike usual Nikon repairs.</p>