andrewmoore

<p>Hey,<br>

What i can advise is,<br>

They are being quite vague about the usage, You need to know 'exactly' how many billboards, posters in how many airports, & other territories what press is covered, 'basically all media except tv' ? i would be asking for complete specifics of every possible useage. You need to know the print runs the sizes, you need to know everything. You should also try and find out how much they want your image, is it 'the one' they have been searching for, or if you've been shortlisted and your image is not that high the list. You need to get involved & use clever pysche language to try and gauge how much value your image is going to bring that company.<br>

For that level of market & use though i would say somewhere i would pitch at $15-$25k a year. Depeneds how much use and value it has though. Let us know how you got on.</p>

<p>p.s i regulary shoot film with an eos3 and mamiya 645 ( medium format great quality and good for large prints ) & to mail me if your thinking of selling your scanner :)</p>

<p>"Switching to digital"<br>

I was thinking about selling my 5D and going all film. hehe. But i'm keeping the 5D because it's handy for events, i mainly shoot fashion and portrait ( as a part time photographer ). Are you selling your supercoolscan ? <br>

I find film far more satisfying in terms of depth of colour and takes less ps work than digital for me. Anyway - You could get a decent second hand 5D and you'll have enough funds for all those lenses you would like. <br>

If you'd like to email me - <a href="mailto:andrew@andrewrmoore.com">andrew@andrewrmoore.com</a><br>

take care and good luck with your decision!</p>

<p>I bought a five pack of Ektar 120 for a fashion shoot at a beach on a sunny day. I had the images processed and scanned at a local professional lab. I was very disapointed with the results in terms of colour hue and shadow detail, it was extremely variant in terms of colour hue for shots in the same roll in the same scene. I had to post process the colours considerably to get something decent for my models portfolio. I get the feeling it's best used in scenes with an even contrast and colour palet. I don't think i'll be buying this again.</p>

<p>Joel, thankyou very much!</p>

<p>I think your right, most of the photos have the bubbles in the same place albeit a couple, curiously. And what is a CLA?</p>

<p>many thanks, for your help! i'm really really greatful :)</p>

 

<p>hello.</p>

<p>A friend gave me his leica to test, i've included a few photos from the film that you can make out, the rest were ruined by these light bubbles.</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/27490980@N06/sets/72157615625321033/</p>

<p>If anyone has any explanation as to what is the cause i would be most endeared.</p>

<p>thankyou in advance.</p>

<p>andrew</p>

In short YES you can learn enough in 3 weeks.

 

i remember before i got my hands on an SLR camera i read about 6 [ though 1 or 2 will suffice ] books in two weeks about how SLR photography works. Got the Canon eos 1000 in my hands turned it to manual and hey presto i was off i knew all i needed to know and was straght into it happy.

 

I moved to the 5D two years ago from an eos 500 and switched to manual on me 5D never looked back. i learned in those first 6 books all these years ago what aperture and shutter speed and ISO does how they effect each other, id advise you do the same an you can turn whatever camera to manual and your off.

 

About the 5D:

It is a fine camera, it is suseptable to breaking down in humid conditions or where there is salty air, it does not like the wet so keep it protcted in a special waterproof bag.

You did'nt mention your budget.

 

On a crop camera - 24mm 1.4 L would be good. the 28mm 1.8 is a cheaper option.

 

x the focal length by the crop factor which i think for you is 1.6 to get your relative focal length.

More of these photos here:

 

www.flickr.com/photos/andrewmoorephotography

 

I always use primes, i like working with a lens with a focal length.

 

A: Because you really get to learn the lens attributes.

B: Spend less time zooming around an spend more time looking for interesting angles.

 

200mmL Prime or 300mmL prime would be good also. The 135L has the advantage of being black small'ish, more discreet basically.

Good Luck :)

135L f2

 

I did a photoshoot with the theme paprazzi style for a fashion designer, here is one of the photos.

 

[image deleted for being more than 511 pixels wide]

buy everything. ahaha.

 

(if only we could)

 

*canon drop your prices, you'll make more profit* :)

Got a 1.4 50mm , really really pleased with it, i get sharp results at 1.4 - 1.8 @ usually speed about 80-150 ISO 1600 on a 5D.

 

check out my concert page for evidence:

 

www.myspace.com/rocknrollphotography

 

id try out the new L lens instore but dont think i will be forking out the cash for the L quality, as the copy i have is lovely.

 

i have 135mmL lens and the 50mm 1.4 comes close in performance.

 

I think a fair price for the 50mmL 1.2 would be in the regeion of ?6-700 pounds in comaparison with other L lenses.

 

Come on Canon, the prices on L lenses are a little too much, i think you will find an increase in profit with the margin of buyer to price ratio.

 

many thanks.

andrew moore.

..files from my ext 3 2gb cards.

 

does anyone know why?

 

its costing me so much time having to keep trying.

 

many thanks.

hey people, thanks so much for all your comments, im quite confused to be honest.

 

still not really sure if this is gonna work out, a radio unit costs about �200 quid and if thats what i need then i might as well buy a modern unit i can just connect without any hassle.

but i really appreciate your views and i must say what an education this is. :)

 

thanksyou !

Hi there,

 

im considering purchasing a couple of old bowens monolite 400 flasheads i saw in

the paper, but am curious to know how these old lights would work with my eos 5D

, i havnt got a clue about using flash units, so if anyone can help me, be much

obliged.

 

the kind of information im seeking from you lovely people is

 

can i sync the flash heads with my 5D ? if so , is it safe? someone said here on

photo.net ( after search "bowens monolite" )it would cause havoc to canon

digital cameras, i dont wanta blow my new baby up in smoke ! haha.

 

if anyone else uses these old lights with a modern digital camera let me know

how you do it, it be pretty annoying buying some gear to find its so out of date

its incompatible.

 

im thinking of buying a modern bowens esprit 500 ( cant afford two but have just

bought 3 mirrors and reflectors which could combat harsh shadows, you think? )

tis rather expensive although i can stretch, thought maybe these old bowens

might hold up to the job while keeping my pocket happy.

 

i am just starting out flash photography, but i am going to make it part of a

serious career move, so investing in expensive gear is not a problem.

 

any advice very welsome.

 

thankyou all.

 

andy.

WOW !

 

SCOTT THANKS !

 

the black card idea works ! well done ! thankyou so much.. takes a bit of practice but yes similar effect !

 

and yes i meant exposures like the eos 3 does. and not panarama.

 

cheers for all your comments ppl :)

you know when you take a picture, move slightly and take another one

which collages with the 1st picture. i know you could do this in

photoshop, but would luv to do it realtime.

 

anyone know ?

ok people, i am very new to digital photography. So apologize for the

newbie question.

 

So, from my EOS 5D with the files i have 1 here from large Jpeg

coming up image size 2912x4368.

 

sort of resolition should i be printing for optimum quality on A4 /

A3 and A3+

 

 

i have the canon i9950 and really just getting to grips with the

image size, ppi etc.

 

i know you ca res up the image for A3+ so thats cool. but i really

dunno what sort of resolution i can max upto or what.

 

any advice greatly appreciated.

 

many thanks!

 

andy.

hey ppl.

 

was just wondering where the serial number for the 5D was as im

filling out the form for the cashback.

 

speaking of which, everyone been getting their cashback ok ? and what

timescale did it take ?

 

 

cheers !

 

andrew.

 

myspace.com/rocknrollphotography

hello.

 

just exactly what the heading suggests.

 

what would you reccomend ?

 

many thanks.

yeah im surprised only one person said fisheye. sigma 15mm fisheye is the biz. its around 300 brittish pounds, its not that cheap, but you get very good quality for the price, only thing on a 1.6x crop its not as fishy as a 1.3 or full frame, but still better than normal i reckon.

 

my 2 pence

 

;)

p.s if i had the money of course i would get both. but i dont. so.

Perhaps i should elaborate,

 

I will be shooting concerts/gigs and portrait indoors / outdoors.

 

This is only one factor (of quality) of the questions i am being faced with when deciding which will work for me.

 

I currently use a 28-200 zoom and primes for wide, just dunno if ill be alright using a prime at the long end. I like not having to zoom.. but i think when you get to the long end, zoom is good for composition. however , at gigs when action is fast, i wonder if using a prime will get me more shots cos im spending less time framing.

 

oh well.. ill get to a decision sometime. Everyones comments who use these instruments in the field of concert/gig photography and portrait is welcome.

 

thankyou all so much :)

http://www.falck-andersen.com/test110605/index.php <br><br>

 

Now folks, by looking at various photos on the net , i see that both

lenses are very similar, however i think where the 135 excels is

colour, it seems to produce better colour.<br><br>

 

Can anybody in the field who have seen real prints give a

professional opinion on these lenses.<br><br>

 

I can't make up my mind which one to purchase in the near future. I

do concerts/gigs , portraits indoor outdoor , events.<br><br>

 

Any comments are so appreciated, Thanks !<br><br>

 

 

Canon EOS 1dmk2 <br> 35 1.4l <br> 15mm fisheye <br> 28- 200 3.5 5.6

actually, this is an interesting test, that sways me to the 70-200.

 

http://www.falck-andersen.com/test110605/index.php