ondebanks

<p>I've posted this one before, but that was in its original fisheye curved-horizon appearance.</p> <p>Thanks to "hugin" software, I've since figured out de-fishing. This is a rectilinear re-projection. It loses some of the dramatic sky, but is probably a more dignified presentation.</p> <p>Mamiya 645AFD, Kodak DCS645M digital back @ISO 100, 24/4 ULD fisheye, 1/125 sec handheld.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Susan,</p> <blockquote> <p>The 80mm is auto only, and it's constantly focusing, making repositioning impossible.</p> </blockquote> <p>There's actually no problem: you just need to get to know your camera better! *ALL* the AF lenses can be switched to manual focus by setting the focus mode rotary switch (bottom right corner of the camera if you're facing the lens) to "M". Set it to "S" to get it to focus, lock and hold that focus position. Set it to "C" to get it to constantly refocus as you repoint the camera. It sounds like you currently have it at "C". If you set it to "S", and keep the shutter release half-pressed, you could autofocus and recompose the subject (without changing the subject-camera distance).</p> <p>The larger AF lenses (zoom and telephoto) also have a clutch mechanism on the focus ring - push forward for AF mode, pull backwards for manual focus. Pulling back for manual focus overrides the "C/S/M" dial if it was already set to "C" or "S" autofocus.</p> <p>If you don't already have a user manual, try ebay/KEH for an original copy or get a scanned copy <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645_af_d/mamiya_645_af_d.htm">from Mike Butkus here. </a></p>

<blockquote> <p><a href="http://www.pauldelrosario.com/untokyo" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.pauldelrosario.com/untokyo</a></p> </blockquote> <p>Those are all pretty close to the camera. So power won't be an issue, and just about any shoe-mounted flash with a front sensor & auto setting (thyristor controlled automatic flash duration) will do. Make sure that it has a standard PC cable socket as the Makina seems to trigger flashes in this way [cable from the side of the lens into the flash on the cold shoe]. An example of such a flash that I used, in exactly this manner, was a $15 non-dedicated ProMaster FTD 5700. It worked great on my Mamiya Universal.</p>

<p>Is the pattern of spots persistent? Could be shadows cast by strands of dust/degraded sticky foam seals/scrap of backing paper, stuck to the edges of the film gate, just ahead of the film. I once had this affect a whole roll in my Mamiya.</p> <p>But this is all guesswork until you show us a scan! That is pretty much mandatory for diagnosing negative problems...</p>

<p>It doesn't rotate...because it doesn't need to. The 6x7cm image from the RB67, whether visualised in portrait or landscape orientiation, is smaller than the short dimension of the Polaroid pack film that the P adapter was designed for.</p> <p>In any case, Polaroid backs are too bulky to rotate conveniently - one would need a tripod spacer under the camera to give enough clearance.</p>

<p>Harry,</p> <p>It's classic photo.net MF forum behaviour. Got a problem? We'll go to considerable trouble to explain to you how to fix it. We'll also try to convince you that you should be using a different model in the first place. We just can't help it :)</p>

<p>From the behaviour you describe, it sounds like you are (or at least the camera is) shooting in B mode. So the reason you can't cock the shutter is that it is still open. There is a 1 minute maximum time on B with the RZ67. This tallies with "After about a minute, the camera makes a loud beep for about 10 seconds,.....After that, the beeping stops, something clicks". That click is the shutter closing again.</p> <p>Extract from the user manual (downloaded from the Mamiya-Leaf website):</p> <blockquote> <p>When the Shutter Speed Dial is set to B, the<br />shutter will remain open as long as the Shutter<br />Release Button remains depressed. Since bulb<br />exposure is also controlled electronically, the<br />shutter will automatically close after approximately<br />one minute in order to prevent inadvertent<br />battery depletion. When using bulb, if the<br />Shutter Release Button is depressed for approximately<br />50 seconds, a warning buzzer will<br />sound. If pressure on the Release Button is<br />maintained, the buzzer will continue for about<br />10 seconds longer, after which the electricity<br />will be automatically extinguished and the shutter<br />will close. When desiring to take exposures<br />of longer than one minute, use time exposures.</p> </blockquote> <p>and what might be happening in your case:</p> <blockquote> <p>When using bulb, if pressure is released from the<br />Shutter Release Button too quickly (before the mirror<br />completes its upward travel), the shutter may remain<br />open. To correct this situation, press the Shutter Release<br />Button once again, upon releasing pressure the<br />shutter will close. If you do not correct the situation<br />yourself. the buzzer will sound after approximately 50<br />seconds, 10 seconds the buzzer will stop and the<br />shutter close.</p> </blockquote>

<p>After 18 years of shooting MF film, I went the hybrid route 4 years ago - an old medium format digital back. This is my primary tool; but I still occasionally shoot medium format film with the same camera or my older cameras - mainly for long exposure work.</p> <p>Does that mean I've "abandoned ship for digital"? Well, yes and no: I'm actually more invested in used medium format lenses and accessories than ever before, with more still in the pipeline; but my usage of them would not fit the profile of the typical MF film shooter on photo.net.</p> <p>As for the question of moving on to other forums...I still visit this forum almost every day, and contribute as much as I can. The same goes for getdpi.com, which is my main digital MF hangout. I used be very active on luminous-landscape.com, but not so much now - there's a better vibe on getdpi, and it has much better facilities for inline photo display.</p>

<p>You simply ran out of focus throw with your normal lens on a tube. That could happen with a DSLR too. As Ellis says, a real macro lens won't have this problem - they have ample focus throw to cover from infinity to 1:2 or in some cases 1:1.</p> <p>Macro lenses are not necessarily uber expensive in medium format; I guess it depends on the brand, and the state of the used market, but my Mamiya 120/4 1:1 macro cost no more than the cheaper lenses for your Rollei. Schneider made a 90/4 macro lens for the Rollei, if I'm not mistaken.</p>

<p>If Jim's source is correct and it is about 68mm, that rules out attaining infinity focus on a Hasselblad or Pentax 67.</p> <p>The Mamiya 645 and Contax 645 would both reach infinity; however those systems have native lenses with similar spec (80/1.9 and 80/2) so there might not be much point in adapting a Noritar.</p>