ondebanks

<p>I've posted this one before, but that was in its original fisheye curved-horizon appearance.</p> <p>Thanks to "hugin" software, I've since figured out de-fishing. This is a rectilinear re-projection. It loses some of the dramatic sky, but is probably a more dignified presentation.</p> <p>Mamiya 645AFD, Kodak DCS645M digital back @ISO 100, 24/4 ULD fisheye, 1/125 sec handheld.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Susan,</p> <blockquote> <p>The 80mm is auto only, and it's constantly focusing, making repositioning impossible.</p> </blockquote> <p>There's actually no problem: you just need to get to know your camera better! *ALL* the AF lenses can be switched to manual focus by setting the focus mode rotary switch (bottom right corner of the camera if you're facing the lens) to "M". Set it to "S" to get it to focus, lock and hold that focus position. Set it to "C" to get it to constantly refocus as you repoint the camera. It sounds like you currently have it at "C". If you set it to "S", and keep the shutter release half-pressed, you could autofocus and recompose the subject (without changing the subject-camera distance).</p> <p>The larger AF lenses (zoom and telephoto) also have a clutch mechanism on the focus ring - push forward for AF mode, pull backwards for manual focus. Pulling back for manual focus overrides the "C/S/M" dial if it was already set to "C" or "S" autofocus.</p> <p>If you don't already have a user manual, try ebay/KEH for an original copy or get a scanned copy <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645_af_d/mamiya_645_af_d.htm">from Mike Butkus here. </a></p>

<blockquote> <p><a href="http://www.pauldelrosario.com/untokyo" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.pauldelrosario.com/untokyo</a></p> </blockquote> <p>Those are all pretty close to the camera. So power won't be an issue, and just about any shoe-mounted flash with a front sensor & auto setting (thyristor controlled automatic flash duration) will do. Make sure that it has a standard PC cable socket as the Makina seems to trigger flashes in this way [cable from the side of the lens into the flash on the cold shoe]. An example of such a flash that I used, in exactly this manner, was a $15 non-dedicated ProMaster FTD 5700. It worked great on my Mamiya Universal.</p>

<p>Is the pattern of spots persistent? Could be shadows cast by strands of dust/degraded sticky foam seals/scrap of backing paper, stuck to the edges of the film gate, just ahead of the film. I once had this affect a whole roll in my Mamiya.</p> <p>But this is all guesswork until you show us a scan! That is pretty much mandatory for diagnosing negative problems...</p>