charlie_johnson1

Trevor,

 

The D1X was still listed in the Nikon Full Line Product Guide (dated 2004), Volume 11, at the same time as the D2X and D2H as well as the D100 and D70. It has only been removed from the lineup on the Nikon USA website over the last few weeks. I know, I have checked.

 

The D1, the granddaddy of all Nikon DSLR's was the FIRST Digital F100. It was built on the F100 frame. Look at the controls and layout; the F100 and D1 is the same creature, even if the D1 does look like the F5 because of the battery location. The D100 was built on the N80 frame.

 

Sure, the D1x design traces its origin back to 1999, when the first D1 hit the marketplace. It is the 3rd rendition of the Nikon DSLR frame coming out in 2001. The D1X boasted 5.4 MP as opposed to the 2.74 MP in the D1 and D1H. The D1X is a tad slow at 3 FPS compared to the D1 at 4.5 FPS and the D1H at 5 FPS. The D1H and D1X did have better power management, 900+ frames on a single charge. The D1 had the bad power management, 300 frames on a single charge, if you are lucky. The D1H and D1X did have a better memory buffer than the D1 as well.

 

Now I can understand trepidation over the price. Earlier this year, in May 2005, a brand new inbox D1X, in Lubbock, TX, still priced at $1,999.00 US. This was after the D2X had been out for a few months and was selling around $4,999.00 US. Prices on Ebay of late have been $250.00 to $450.00 for a D1, $500.00 to 850.00 for a D1H and still well over $1,000.00 for a D1X. This is for basic body kits alone; body, battery, charger, and software, the basic items that come in the body kit. If lenses were involved, the price went for more. For an old design, the D1X is still commanding respect.

 

The D1 family is a tried and tested design. Sure it has flaws, all cameras do, especially during the first run of a new frame and design. The D200 is just now starting to hit the market and there are few if any out in enough hands at this point to say just how good of a unit it is going to be. The D2H and D2X have been out for a while now and we are still hearing about bugs and other assorted issues with them while people are still learning how to use them. Same with the D70, D50, D70s and even the D100, which had been out since, what, 2002. What editions are the books on now for these newer bodies?

 

I have a copy of "D1 Generation" by B. Moose Peterson, in its 1st Edition dated October 2001. There may be a newer edition, I have not checked, but I understand it may be on CD and not in print. I also have the 3rd edition of Thom Hogan's "Complete Guide to the Nikon D1, D1H and D1X" dated 2003 version 3.0.4 on CD. This one may have newer updates available. We know the flaws of the D1 System and how to work with them. Can't say that about the newer DSLR?s in the loop now. Just look at all the post on Photo.net about the newer bodies and all the problems.

 

Sure, it would be nice to own the latest and greatest toys that Nikon turns out every year. I'm not Donald Trump or Bill Gates and don't have the pocket change they do to throw around for the latest gadgets. It seems very silly to me that so many go nuts over the new stuff coming out and immediately sell their old tried and true gear to buy the next new thing. Sometimes, it?s a trade up because the newer gear may work faster or focus sharper than the old or do things that the old stuff didn't. Sometimes, it?s the dumbest thing done because the new replacement gear is of poorer design or construction quality than its predecessors and the older gear is superior or doesn't do as much as the old stuff did. Lenses, bodies, flashes, it doesn't matter.

 

Trevor, if your dealer friend has a New Inbox D1X, it?s probably from the end of the model run and is still a very new and viable camera. I don't think it would have been just sitting around forgotten for years. You may try and talk the dealer down in price some more and be able to save a few more pounds. The D200 is still some time away and we don't know the flaws or idiosyncrasies of it yet. With the D1x, we already know what the limitations are and we already know of ways to work around them. Get the D1X and use the D70 for backup or trade it in for some 2.8 Film Body Grade (Full Frame) glass.

For a superior lens with about the same range, get the Nikon AF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 D IF. This is a hot little lens for general all around photography. Its no longer in production in this version. The current model is the aperture-less G version. The older version uses 72mm filters whereas the newer version uses 62mm. The older version can be easily found on Ebay or camera places like B&H Photo, KEH.com or Adorama.

Save your money and go for a better camera and lens combo after Christmas. Place a order to B&H Photo for some 24 Exp. Fuji Superia CZ 800 and 36 Exp. Superia CU-1600 for your low light shooting. Also get some Fuji Press CH-400 in 36 Exp. for general shooting. If you don't have a travel monopod or tripod, I would suggest getting one. I prefer Bogen, they are very good and easy to use.

 

Your 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 and 50mm f/1.8 are far superior lenses than any of the new DX kit lenses that Nikon has developed for the D70, 70s, and D50. I think you would be better saving up and getting the D200 after the holidays. Your other best choice would be picking up a D1, D1h or D1x from Ebay. You might find a D1 or D1h package within your budget but maybe not a D1x. The older D1's may have lower mega pixels but can meter any AI-S lens Nikon has ever made. Your present gear would be more compatible with the D1 family or the D200 than any of the D100, D70, D70s, and D50. This purely my biased and humble opinion, I happen to own a D1 and prefer the older AF lenses built for the film bodies.

Warren, the Nikon HB-33 lens hood for this lens is what Nikon would call a Bayonet Mount. The Baynet Mount is a twist-lock mounting that captures the lens hood on the outside of the end of the lens. Your kit lens uses this type of lens hood mount. The 52mm screw-on filter would allow for any 52mm screw-on filter to be used, including the circular polarizer, or CP, you are looking at. As I said, I have the older style CP that uses a screw-on lens hood that attaches to the CP filter itself. I have the 52mm, 62mm, and 72mm CP with corresponding screw-on hoods for each one.

 

And you are right, this 18-55 DX doesn't appear to be all that great of a lens. Especially for one that is supposed to be AF-S. I shoot both film (4004s) and digital (D1) and can use all but one of my current set of lenses on either body without any issues. The only lens I cannot use on the 4004 is the AF-S lens, it doesn't support it. For me, any DX lens is a waste of time and money, they are only good on DSLR and bring back old problems such as vignetting. This is from Thom Hogan's review of your kit lens: "Vignetting is back. We'd forgotten about it when we moved to digital SLRs, as the older lenses had much larger image circles than necessary, but with a small DX lens that barely covers the APS-sized sensor, it's back." Quite frankly, I wouldn't put any money into this lens. Now, if you have a 50mm f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens, that also uses the 52mm filter mount, then I might buy the CP and other filters for either of those lenses but not the 18-55 DX. Again, that's what I would do.

 

The $65.00 cost you have found is basically the price of the Nikon CP Series II or Slim Version. You could look into Hoya or Tiffen for lower cost CPs but may not be able to use the Nikon lens hood with them. Hoya has slim versions as well but at the same or higher cost than that of the Nikon CP II. If you did go with a 3rd party brand on the CP and a 3rd party hood for the CP, again, vignetting would be a problem with so much stacking on the end of the lens.

 

I don't know if this helps or confuses the issue more. In my own opinion, I would get rid of the kit lens and get better glass. I would buy my filters and hoods for that better lens, not this one.

Which kit lens are you refering to? Without knowing the lens, can't figure out which Circular Polarizer and Lens Hood combo to work out. I do know this much, if you get a Nikon Circular Polarizer, you may have to get the Nikon CP Hood for it, the attachment size is proprietary to Nikon and just different enough in size that no other manufacturers hoods will fit correctly. If you go with 3rd party such as Hoya, Kenko, who ever, you may have better options in matching various hoods to the polarizer.

 

Another thing, if you are going with the newer. slimmer circular polarizers, they allow for the use of bayonet mounted lens hoods that are used on lenses equiped with such attachments. I have the older style, the lens hoods screw into the front of the circular polarizer. These older style do not work well with bayonet mounted lens hoods very well if at all.

Hello to all who responde. I recently won a SB-22 flash on Ebay.

High Bidder wooo hooo. Anyway, the flash is fine except it is

missing the Wide Flash Adapter or AKA Wide Angle Flash

Adapter/Diffuser. On the SB-22, one has to tilt the flash head 90

degrees, then the Wide Angle Adapter is slid onto the flash head. If

one is not carefull or knows exactly what he is doing, this diffuser

can be removed. Other than this missing part, there is nothing wrong

with this flash. I would greatly appreciate any ideas on where I

might be able to find a replacement diffuser. I look forward to any

and all responses. Thank you.

 

Charlie Johnson

Sorry Jim, this is not a DIY Repair Option. Thom Hogan, B. Moose Peterson, the Nikon User Guide and many others here on Photo.net will all tell you what they told me. You have to send your D1 to the Nikon Service Center for the battery to get changed. It sucks, I know. I'm on borrowed time myself, I bought my D1 off of Ebay. No idea on turn around time and cost. Sorry for the long delay, I just found you here while looking for parts threads on a SB-22 flash. Good luck.

If your brother can find a D1h that looks like its in fair shape and not beat to death, I say go for it. The D1h shoots 5 fps and has better memory buffer and battery life than a D1, even with just 2.74 Mege Pixels. I say go for it. Doom on the nay sayers. Why pay new price for a camera that cannot use all Nikon AIS lenses as well as meter in the body. That is precisely why I don't have a D50, 70, 70s or 100.

 

I have been learning more and more about my used D1 I got last year over the last few weeks. So what if its used, it looks good and shoots just fine. All of my current Nikon gear, I have right now, is used, second hand, not new in the box. I'm on a budget and my budget doesn't allow for the latest D2? and 2.8 AFS glass. I am very happy with my D1 and you would have to pay me dearly to get rid of it. I even use it for work and use it in conditions most people would not use their gear in, blowing sand, dirt, mud, muck, and handling with wet and/or very dirty work gloves.

 

I would suggest getting the "Thom Hogan's Complete Guide to the D1, D1h and D1x 3rd Ed." and B. Moose Peterson's "D1 Generation" books to go along with the camera. Both books have lots of info on the controls and features of the camera not covered in the Nikon User Guide, if one comes with the camera at all.

I would go through every thread in the Nikon Forum that has been posted on the D70. Not just the main forum that comes up, but also the list of filed catergories off to the right side of the screen. There have been issues with almost every camera body made by Nikon. All of the threads here can help you learn what others have already run into and what they have found out.

 

I don't own a D70, I have a used D1 that I found on Ebay. After reading the threads here on Photo.net, I found that I really didn't want a D70, a D50, or a D100 for my personal style of shooting and equipment I already owned and could get from my dad. I also learned there are oddities about my D1 that others have found and didn't like but learned to live with; I am learning to live with those and others too.

 

Its nice that we can post our questions on here and get others to help answer them. However, sometimes, you need to search and read through what is already there before you ask. All of the answers are already here in the Nikon forum, you just have to find all the questions hidden the in the threads and catergories already filed.

I had an SB-22 I used on a Nikon N4004s and got great pictures using the TTL setting. When I got my D1, I tried using the SB-22 and it would only work using the Auto Aperture (AA) or Manual settings, no TTL. I sold my SB-22 and got a SB-80DX, which was supposed to have D-TTL that would work with my D1. My results have been lousy. Again, using the AA setting on the 80DX seemed to work best. I have the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer, and I got great results with it on my SB-22, even with the Velcro being attached kind of funky. When I put it on my SB-80DX, again, crappy results. I have kicked myself for getting rid of my SB-22. I learned only recently that I needed to set more controls on my D1 and my SB-80DX to get good results. Also, you can't use the Nikon books alone to figure it out.

 

I learned that I had to turn on the Red Eye Reduction feature on the camera in order to use it in the SB-80DX. The Nikon book didn't tell me this; Thom Hogan's book on the D1 gave me that information. Also, setting the ISO and White Balance settings for the primary light source is important. I have read that information from both Thom Hogan and B. Moose Peterson. Don't use the Auto WB setting, it doesn?t work right, you have to set it for the appropriate lighting conditions and source. I tried this just the other night with my SB-80DX using the D-TTL, with and without the matrix focusing setting and it seemed to work. I haven't tried this yet with my Pocket Bouncer but I will be experimenting in time.

 

What I have done using the Pocket Bouncer, setting the flash to AA and adjusting the power output manually up or down has helped, especially being able to shoot more frames and pick and choose what I want to keep. Another thing you may also try, if the feature is available on your D70, is Exposure Bracketing. If you can turn it on and adjust your exposure values, let the camera do the work for you. I would also find additional books on your D70 and SB-800 namely from Nikon System Gurus like Thom Hogan and B. Moose Peterson. They tell you of their trials and errors that they have had with various Nikon bodies and accessories. I hope this helps and good luck. Also, I just got myself another SB-22 from Ebay. I still have my 4004s, I need a flash that I know works with it.

It looks like reflections of the tree lights from the front element of the lens onto the filter attached on the front of the lens. The AF 50mm f/1.8 has a deep set of its front filter and reflections of light sources are indeed possible on any filter attached on the end of the lens. If you had used a flash in the photo, you would have lit your subjects more and knocked down the bright light source behind them.

 

I have noticed similar reflections in a few pictures I had taken on the bright red neon that used to grace the west side of Jones Stadium at Texas Tech Univeristy in Lubbock, Tx. But the reflection added a unique look to the picture in the way it appeared in the prints. Had I removed the L37c UV filter while taking my late night pictures, the reflections would not have shown up in the photo.

 

I don't recall the exact thread here on photo.net refering to the reflections caused by filters on the front of the lens but I do remember seeing that subject being mentioned before by others. Also, I did read something today by Thom Hogan on the same subject and the use of lens hoods in preventing flare in the lens. Hope this helps out.

With a Consumer DSLR like the D70 and its other variants the D50 and 70s, you are not going to get PRO Speed AF. I have heard stories about how slow the F4s was when it came out and how the F5 eclipsed it. I had a 4004s that used the same AF module as the F4s and also had a weaker motor. My lord, it was soooooo slow. Trying to shoot indoor sports such as hockey was a nightmare...but I did it. I couldn't afford 2.8 glass and $2000.00+ bodies but I did manage to get some great action shots by:

 

1. Turn off the AF, pre-focus manually, and let the depth of field be your guide. A 70-300 f/4-5.6D has great depth of field from the top of the bleachers at a 180mm setting.

 

2. I invested in Higher ISO Film. I could get 800 ISO Fuji fairly cheap and easy. In the case of a DSLR, turn up the ISO setting.

 

3. Have the camera at the ready and anticipate what is about to happen. If you see it in the viewfinder, you didn't get the shot.

 

As far as the having the green light and the body won't fire goes, sounds like you need to check your battery levels. My 4004s and my D1 do this to me when the batteries start getting weak. Yes, they have warning lights, but the voltage and current draw may be such that the alarms don't go off and the camera still malfunctions. Always have fresh batteries on hand as a backup. Learn the controls, functions and idiosyncrasies of your camera and adapt and overcome and the force will be with you. If you still cannot get things to work right, then get another camera.

I have been reading the post on photo.net for a few years now. I

have searched for answers to questions I have had. I have even

posted questions from time to time. I have given my two cents on

subjects that I felt I could supply an answer to.

 

Over the last several days and night, I have been tinkering with my

D1. Since I got this monster last year, I have had some trouble

getting the same results and quality of pictures with this camera as

opposed to my old N4004s or F-401s for those not in the US. The

Nikon user manual is not the best source for info. I have a copy of

B. Moose Peterson's "D1 Generation" and that has helped allot. I was

fortunate also in getting Thom Hogan's "Complete Guide to the Nikon

D1, D1h & D1x" expanded 3rd. Ed. on CD with my D1 I bought on Ebay.

This much I have learned, you have to read all of the books and play

with your camera and settings. You have to learn the controls and

play even more.

 

Over the last three days I have figured out?

1.) White balance adjustment and lighting source is key to

getting the picture to come out right.

2.) Exposure Bracketing is a plus and easy to do, once you figure

out how it really works and figure out the controls on the camera for

doing just that.

3.) My SB-80DX has Red Eye Reduction that appears to work, when

the feature is turned on in the camera.

4.) I may finally figure out D-TTL and get good quality flash

photography like I did using my 4004s and SB-22 set on TTL without

having to set the flash on Auto Apeture all the time.

5.) I can shoot Black and White pictures, in the camera, and

don?t have to worry about trying to get it right in Photoshop.

 

Gone are the days of Ektar 400 and 1000 and getting double prints

from the HEB Photo Lab for under $7.00. Gone are the days of

choosing which shot to take and making full but not wasteful use of

24 or 36 exposure film because you're in school or on a really tight

budget and shooting more than a few rolls a month might break the

bank. Now I have my computer, my D1, and my two 512MB SanDisk CF

cards and Adobe Photoshop Album 2.0 (Full Version). I can play, can

experiment, and finally figure out what some of the buttons actually

do on my camera. I don't know if I will ever learn them all, I may

forget a few along the way and will have to go back into my books to

find out what this button and that button do. The key is?you got to

read the post, the books and the pdf files and play, play, play.

Now, if I could only get myself a Nikon 80-200 f/2.8D AF EDIF lens in

excellent condition with the packed accessories and original box on

Ebay for less than $400.00, life would be good.

Michael,

 

Mark Jordan is correct, get down to the nearest pro camera shop and play with the tripods on display. Read the varying opinions here, and take down notes of what brands and models people liked the most. Do some internet research on the brands and models that interest you and then head down and look at them and play with them and see how they work and feel to you.

 

Myself, I had a Slik tripod, I forget the model, it worked great until I put a 70-300 ED on my 4004s and it was simply too much to hold properly, in my opinion. There is no way it would hold my D1 I have now, its simply more weight than the 4004s. Anyway, I sold the Slik to someone else and bought myself a Bogen 3021 BN and later a Bogen 3039 Head. I am happy with my choices, plus I am looking to the future with capacity for bigger and longer lenses than I have now.

 

I went to Precision Camera and Video in Austin, when I lived in central Texas, and played with all the different tripods and heads on display. I didn't buy that day, but I did know what models I liked and what things I didn't about others.

 

I was looking more at the Bogen than any others because I already had a Bogen 681B Monopod and 3055s Ballhead and wanted something that complimented what I already had. I was on a budget, Arca Suiss Balls costs more that my camera did and getting Really Right Stuff Plates and guides was also cost prohibited. I went the Bogen route because the product is rock solid, affordable, and had features I liked.

 

I hope this helps you. The choice is ulimately yours. Buy what is good for you and your style of shooting and the equipment you plan to use. Good luck in you quest for steady support.

It would help if you told us what body you are using, film or digital SLR? I don't have any photos taken with either lens to show you. I did own the 50 f1.8 and sold it on ebay and now wish I had held on to it. As a matter of fact, I am watching now to see how they are selling so I can get one again.

 

I now have the 50 f1.4 and really I need to use it more than I do. For the money, the 50 f1.8 is a bargain and can give you great results. Prices lately have been running retail $99.95 to $129.95 US Dollars from what I have seen online. On Ebay, I have not seen one go for less than $65.00 US lately. Some have sold for higher than retail. This little lens is hot right now.

 

My advice, get the 50 f1.8 now and use it. Then, later on, get the 50 f1.4 and HANG ON TO BOTH OF THEM.

 

Yes, the 50 f1.4 is 3X the cost for on extra stop but it might be something you have to have for that one great shot of whatever it may be. However, one stop less on the 50 f1.8 really doesn't hurt if you can compensate using a mono or tripod, higher ISO setting on your DSLR or higher ISO Speed film in your SLR.

 

No matter what, don't forget the L37c UV filter. A little extra protection doesn't hurt the image.

 

My $0.02.

If you want to know the right gear and lens for "Severe Weather" photography, I would suggest doing a "Google Search" on storm chasing photography and read up on what those guys use. Another search would be for Alan (Al) Moller and Charles A. (Chuck) Doswell III, the fathers of Storm Chasing. Some of their stuff is copy written to the NOAA/NWS or National Severe Storms Laboratory, but they also have personal websites. Chuck also runs ?Tempest Tours.? I have never met Chuck Doswell but have read allot of his stuff. He used a Nikon camera with the F mount and shot lots of storms with wide-angle primes, 20, 24, 28mm lenses. He also shot allot of Kodak Kodachrome pushing the hilt out of the film. He never mentioned how he protected his gear, but he shot lots of things in harms way. If you are a true properly NWS trained storm chaser, you will stay out of harms way and your gear will take more beatings of being thrown around than actually getting wet. I don't know about the D70 holding up in moist conditions, I don't own one. I do own a D1 and it does have some weather tightness to it, as long as the lens stays attached. B. Moose Peterson said he dropped a D1 into loose power snow and it suffered no ill effects until he removed the lens and got a snowflake on the sensor. I have used mine in mist, drizzle, and light rain to capture storm clouds and storm features as the weather went by and didn't have any problems. I did wish I had had a wider lens. The 24-120 VR is nice but not wide or fast enough. A 17-35 f/2.8 would be much better. Using a wide range zoom, i.e. 28-200 would be nice, but suffer because the speed of the lens is too slow. Using a long lens, 200mm+ in a storm narrows your point of view. Wide primes and fast aperture are your best bet.

Check on eBay for that lens. Some have been going cheap as of late, i.e. $250 or less. But then some for for next to new price. Always check the eBayer's feedback rating as well. Some of the eBay stores have good deals on used and demo lenses too.

 

I have this lens myself. I had wanted one since 1990 and finally got one last year. I used to have the 35-70 3.3-4.5 and used the hell out of it. It was a two ring affair as opposed to the single ring focus and push pull zoom of the 2.8. The 2.8 only macros in 35mm whereas the 3.3-4.5 macros the full zoom range. For true low light work, the 50 1.4 is best and the 50 1.8 is a less expensive alternative. I have mixed feeling about my 35-70 2.8 after using the slower version for years. I tend to use my 24-120 more. I think it truly depends on what you want to do with the lens. I should tinker with mine more than I do.

 

Look at reviews on the lens from Thom Hogan and B. Moose Peterson. Those two are Nikon Guru's and they don't pull punches on Nikon gear. If you are going to be doing macro with this lens, get the Kenko Auto Extension 3 tube set to go with it, it works quite well with the 35-70 2.8 for macro work.

Did you make sure the aperture lock is set? The version of the 50 f/1.8 I used to have had a little knob that had to be pressed in and then turned 90 degrees to lock with the aperture ring set to minimum aperture. On the 50 f/1.8, it was 22 and should be orange or yellow in color. This is in contrast to the other numbers being in white. I think the new versions of this lens may have a sliding lock switch on them as opposed to the press and twist button of my old lens. My experience with the aperture lock not being locked caused my N4004s to not focus and error light flashes would be seen in the viewfinder. With that body set to manual, you could set the aperture only via the control knobs on top of the camera, not via the aperture ring. My 50 f/1.4 does the same thing on my D1. I also wish I had not sold my 50 f/1.8 on eBay. Hope this helps. If it doesn't, I would return it to the place of purchase and request warranty exchange, another lens, or my money back.

Kris,

 

Using a card reader is just easier to deal with. CF cards and the many variants are not delicate, they are quite robust and can take some amount of mishandling, i.e. a drop from 6 to 20 feet in some case listed in other post. Micro Drives cannot take that because they are essentially a mini hard drive, but that is another discussion. The primary reason for the card reader is convenience. My Nikon D1 uses CF cards and also has an IEEE 1394 Fire Wire port. I have USB 1.1 and 2.0 ports on my computer and don't have Fire Wire, so the Fire Wire port is useless. Also, in order to read the images from the card while its still in the camera, the camera must be powered, thus depleting my battery or I would have to get out my AC Power Adaptor and hook it up to the camera to power it. To many people, that is just a nuisance to mess with. A card reader just make sense, be it USB, Fire Wire, built into a drive face on the computer, or in a printer.

 

As far as guiding the cards into the slots go, be it on the card reader or the camera, you don?t just jam it in. There are alignment guides for the card to follow and usually a picture or imprint to show how to insert the card properly into the slots. If someone is damaging the cards, the alignment guides, or the slots, they are just being careless in how they are using their own equipment and should be having problems with every thing that they touch. Tab A into Slot B is not a hard concept. The cards and slots are carefully engineered to allow for hundreds, thousands, tens to thousands, or hundreds of thousands of cycles, i.e. insert and remove, for the life of the equipment. Don?t be afraid to use removable gear, its designed for that type of use.

 

My $0.02

 

Charlie Johnson, KD5AWS

Sorry, I just now saw this post. Best to buy would be a Gitzo Carbon Fibre Monopod and topping it with a Arca Swiss ball head and using Really Right Stuff quick release plates and brackets. That combo should set you back about the price of your D70 and/or your Sigma 40-800 lens. But lets be realistic.

 

About two years ago, I myself was looking for a monopod and head to use with my Nikon N4004s and AF Nikkor 70-300 f4-5.6 lens to shoot indoor hockey. I was on a budget, couldn't afford fast glass. I could get high speed film but needed a way to hold my camera and lens steady, that 70-300 doubled the weight of my camera. So I perused a few threads here on photo.net and then went shopping at B&H Photo. My monopod and head of choice was a Bogen 681B Monopod and Bogen 3055s Ball Head with Quick Release Hex Plate. It was probably overkill for my body/lens combo but I knew it would last me a long time and any future camera upgrades as well.

 

Bogen/Manfrotto doesn't make the 3055s Ball head anymore, well, not like they use too. Model number changed as well as the style of quick release plate. They still do make the 681B Monopod, but it is one of many fine products they make.

 

I went with the heavier ball head over the tilt head because of weight capacity. If you have a camera and lens that have some heft to them, you need something that will support them. The tilt head works best with 5 pound or less. The ball would support up to 13 pounds. Better to be rock steady than flimsy. But something else I was doing too was planning for future camera support purchases. I now have a 3021B Pro Tripod with a 3039 Head that uses the same Hex Plate as my 3055s ball head. I don't have a 80-200 f2.8 or a 300 f2.8 yet, but someday I will. I have moved on from my 4004s to a D1 and I still use my 681B Monopod with 3055s Ball Head and I don't have to change plates all the time.

 

Now what you really want to know. Read the weight specs for you D70 and your Sigma Lens and combine to get your weight total. Go to Manfrotto's website, Google Search, and look at the various models of monopods and heads they have. Choose the right monopod and head that will carry and hold your camera/lens combo with ease, i.e. has the more weight capacity than your total camera/lens weight. Then go to B&H and find if they have the pod and head that you want and enjoy. If you already have a tripod, get a head for your monopod that uses the same style of quick release plate as your tripod head does. Or choose one like you would want to have on a tripod that you want to get if you don't already have one.

 

Carbon Fibre, Arca Swiss and Really Right stuff is sure nice, but I'm on a budget and Bogen does the job for me for a lot less hard earned bucks.

This is a great general purpose, walk around lens. Works well on my D1 but not on my 4004s, its an AFS lens. With a camera body that will handle AFS lenses, its is fast and quiet. You will still need your other lenses for long shots (telephoto) or close work (macro to 5ft). Good for getting candid and group pictures. Cannot compare to the previous versions, never owned one of them.

Russ,

 

A D1 and two batteries for $800 is too high in my book. I got a D1 off of Ebay last October for $1200 but I got a ton of stuff with it and free shipping to boot. For that $800 that D1 you're looking at should be in pristine shape and have all original packaging and standard equipment that come in the D1 kit. But in my opinion, it should at least have a lens with it too.

 

I got the D1, a AFS Nikkor 24-120 f/3.5-5.6 G VR lens, 3 EN4 batteries, the MH-16 charger, two Hoodman LCD covers, a Sandisk 512MB CF card, a Sandisk PCMCIA CF card reader, and Tenba DB-17 backpack camera bag and free shipping for the "Buy It Now" purchase all for that $1200. I knew what the value new and used was for many of the items and dove in. Its my first digital for me. I moved up from a 4004s Nikon SLR to the D1. The D1 is robust and rugged. I have shot tons of pictures with my D1 and love it. I also got it because it is what I could afford and I could use some non AF lenses my dad has as well. I couldn't find a D100 or D70 that would do the same as the D1. Do some more shopping and get the most bang for your buck. Good luck.

 

Charlie Johnson

Joe,

 

I would get the D1 and then use the D70 as a backup. Of course that is only my opinion. I use a D1 as my primary camera. My previous camera was a 1989 Nikon N4004s and I used it pretty heavy off and on until 2004 when I got the D1 I now have off of Ebay for a song considering what I got with it, (pretty complete package, lens, charger, batteries, etc.) I will most likely use my D1 until the clock warning shows on the display or something goes wrong with the mechanical inside. Then I will send it in and have it fixed and keep right on shooting. I use my D1 as a tool and for personal shooting as well. I am more than happy with the 2.74 MP it shoots. My work has me using it to document before and after shots of well heads of water wells and water systems I work on and it does a superb job. I don't miss going to the photo lab although I haven't taken the time to learn Photoshop like I need too. If you get a D1, get the B. Moose Peterson Book, "D1 Generation" it will fill you in on the quirks of this fine camera. If the price is right, I would get the D1H or D1X because they have better power consumption than the D1, 900+ frames as opposed to 300+ in the D1. Other than that, the D1H is only .5 FPS faster than the D1 and the D1X is 5.4 MP. Oh yeah, the D1H and D1X do also have a bigger memory buffer. But if you can find a D1 with original packaging, charger, multiple battery packs, lens or lenses, multi CF cards and other accessories and software for $1500 or less on ebay, knowing what the body and other parts might sell for alone, it would be worth the purchase price for the package.

 

My $0.02,

 

Charlie Johnson

Here is something that I have not seen anyone address yet. It is

that internal clock battery inside of the Nikon Camera bodies. I

have a Nikon D1, probably built in 2000 judging by the serial number,

s/n 5015624. I am the second owner of this unit. According to the

owner?s manual, a separate internal clock battery that has a useable

life of about 10 years powers the clock.

 

I would think that would really be shelf life, not useable life. So,

for a body built in 2000, in 2010 this body would have to be sent to

a Nikon Service Center to have the battery changed for a fee. OK,

what is the fee for this change? How long can I expect to have my

beloved Nikon out of my hands, i.e. how long will it take to change

this battery?

 

Now here is why I ask this. I have had Timex watches with 5 or 6-

year batteries only last 3 to 4 years. It does say in the owner?s

guide, battery life is dependent on how the watch is used and cared

for. Do you use the display light often and for how long? OK, lets

apply this rule to the Nikon SLR or DSLR in your hands. If you shoot

a few hundred frames a year, you should get a full ten years out of

the battery if not longer. But lets say you shoot 10,000+ frames a

year, your battery life could be shortened somewhat, all those time

stamps saved to the Flashcard or Film file. Lets say that this cuts

the life to 7 to 8 years.

 

Someone should have had to send their SLR or DSLR body in to have

that battery changed by now, assuming this battery was put into

bodies such as the F5, which came out prior to the release of the D1

in late 1999. Or lets look at it this way, your Nikon Body has been

sent in for service, shutter or something else to be repaired or

updated and you see a Battery Replacement Fee on the Invoice. What

was the fee? And why make a battery that has to be changed at a

service center?

 

I know that there are DIYs or Do-It-Yourself types on this forum.

Who has tinkered with their Nikon and found a hidden compartment for

the internal clock battery? Or, how far of a tear down was involved

to get to the clock battery? I am very curious. For all we know,

starting in the near future, there will be a thread about how long it

takes to get your camera back from Nikon for a stupid clock battery

change and the astronomical price they want for it. Lets say it was

first referenced here. I thank all who respond in advance.

Rod,

 

I have the Nikon AF 70-300 Zoom f/4-5.6 D ED. I bought mine on Ebay in 2002 for around $275 with shipping less the box and instructions and warranty papers. I have seen them sell lately on there around $200 to $250 with all the original packaging (box and papers). You might even be able to snap one up for under $200. The lens is sharp through the entire range. The autofocus is not slow, this lens is focused by the AF motor in the camera body. This lens on a N4004s body is slow on auto focus but on a F5 or newer Nikon body with a faster AF motor drive, it does better. It's not an AFS lens, those are quiet and blazing fast by comparison and have the price tag to match. I am in the market for a 80-200 f/2.8 myself but my budget at the moment says no. I had thought about selling this lens at one time and decided against it, its too good of a lens to let go of. It uses 62mm filters, so if you have other lens with this size, less filters to buy. I would avoid the "G" version of this lens, it is not the same quality of lens. This lens is a "two touch" unit, one ring is twist to zoom and the other for focus. It does not have macro. This lens is a good hand hold super telephoto zoom. This lens also has a good short minimum focus distance and works well with Kenko AF Auto Extension Tubes lending to good macro use as well as using the Nikon 5T and 6T Magnification Filters even though it does not have macro built in.

 

The 70-210 is also a good lens. I don't have one but it was on my wish list back when I first got my 4004s in 1989. It too has the same 62mm lens filter front and adds macro capability. This lens is a different type of zoom than the 70-300. It is a push-pull on the zoom with a seperate focus ring on the end of the lens. In a way, it is like the 35-70 f/2.8 (both the Non D and D). The 70-210 was one of the first AF zoom Nikon made and is considered a good lens except for the fact that its zoom range is covered by other lenses, like the 70-300.

 

Get the Magic Lantern Guide to Nikon Lenses by B. Moose Peterson, 2nd Edition for a good rating of the line of AF and MF lenses worth the money to own. Also, use Thom Hogan and his listing on his website as a guide. I know that the Magic Lantern Guide is dated and due for an update but it is still a good reference.