luis_marco_de_sebastian

2.5times over the price list for a Wii??

Wow, i cannot believe it... here in Spain and i guess the rest of Europe you can walk in any store and take one with you. Maybe you are talking about the new Wii2.0!! Wonder if Nintendo is following nikon's example with the D200 and mine will not work in January lol

Hi, i am going to be in Jordan for 15 days this summer, (visiting

most of the country), and i am still thinking about what camera/s

should i take...

I have several options (Nikon f100+ lenses, ROlleiflex 3.5 F and

rollei 35SE). I would like to take the rolleiflex but i am concerned

about the sand and how the camera would stand it...

Do you have any experiences with this kind of place end this

camera... i guess that the F100 is a better option in this sense but

i would love to have 6x6...

Thanks a lot

There won´t be any film based F6, there's no market for it today. Several months ago we had another post regarding this and top of the line Nikon F models stayed in the market for about 8 years... I cannot imagine many pros buying and using film based cameras in one or two years...not to consider what could happen by 2010.

 

About the MF F6... I am just curious how people could believe this with current nikon lenses. As already stated their image circle do not cover any MF frame.

 

Anyway i love this kind of posts

I had a F-801s for a few years and it only happened twice, once in April while in Boston (good weather) and the other one in Stockholm (March and really cold)... both times it happened when trying to get the very last shot out of the roll (37 or 38th). Taking the batteries out or replacing them solved the problem. I have heard about this happening to quite a lot of 801/8008 owners but doing that batteries thing is all it takes and you will be ready to use the camera again. It is a nice body if ya don´t need really fast AF (sports/wild life) and i only got a f100 cause mine got stolen.

Regards

If you do not plan to use AFS, G o VR lenses or shoot sports this is a great camera. I had one till it got stolen.

Any Nikon service will program your F100 to leave the leader out for free.

So after doing so when you press once to rewind leavinf the leader out and once again if after doing this if you do not want the leader in... very useful option. Nikon does it for free and in the very same day.

It seems that the S - Heidosmat 3,5 / 150 MC is offered as a cheap alternative to the costly 120mm apogon for the 66 duap P. At least that is the way it lookks in the B&H site. (it will fit my rolleivision 66 too)

But what about the opptical quality of this lens compared with the 2,8 Heidosmat and the AV Xenotar?

Hi

I have just bought a rolleivision 66 (not AV version) with a AV

Xenotar 90mm 3.5 HFT lens and while it delivers good results i have

to set my screen too close to the projector which sometimes is a

problem.

So i am looking for a 150mm lens (the 120mm apogon is out of my

price range) and i have taken a look at these 3:

 

Heidosmat 2,8 / 150

S - Heidosmat 3,5 / 150 MC

Xenotar HFT 2,8 / 150

 

I already know about the Xenotar and i think that it is the best of

the 3 but would like to hear what do you think about these two

Heidosmat lenses.

 

What surprises me is that the S-Heidosmat is supposes to have better

resolution than the non S version according to the rolleiclub:

http://www.rolleiclub.com/rollei/projectors/index.htm

but they do not list the S-heidosmat 3,5 but the S-heidosmat 2,8

Can you guys help me with this? I do not think it is the cheap and

plastic made 150 3,5 that came with the p66 projector but i do not

know for sure.

 

thanks in advance.

Without knowing what kind of variations in image quality you are talking about i am gonna point out an stupid answer to this issue: Are you using a 3.5 F model (Planar or Xenotar taking lenses), or a f3.5 T, A...model (tessar or Xenar taking lenses)?

I have a 3.5 F model (Planar lens), and it is known that tessar and xenar lenses do show different image quaility (meaning sharpness here) while shooting at different f stops (wider f stops meaning worse quality and smaller f stops rivaling superior model Planar and Xenotar lenses quality).

Please forget all my post in case you know that your camera is an F model, i wrote this just in case...

Yesterday night i tried signing the petition but could not cause it was asking for my state and i do not live in the States... but in Europe.

Solutions Carl?

Can you comment on the acrotech bay 2 cap? their site just shows a littel picture with the camera showing no detail at all. Any other one with experience with both caps (acrotech and the original rollei)?

Hi, i plan to buy a pb-4 or Pb-6 for my F100 so as to give

macrophotography a try after discarding doing so with MF.

 

What are the advantages/disadvantages of one over the other? i know

the pb-4 has tilt swing abilities while pb-6 does not...why does

this happens? is it really important? any other signifficant

difference?

 

Considering my equipment F100, nikkor 50mm af 1.4D and micro nikkor

AF 105mm 2.8 which one would be a better option?

 

Thanks a lot

i have been looking for a bay two lenscap (RII) "mirror metal" one

for a while and now i am confused...

Do you know of any size differences? i have read that RII lenscap

for the 3.5 E does not fit the 3.5F or 3.5E2 cause the distance

between both lenses is different...

thanks

Hi, i have been considering to buy a used MF (6x6) projector and

have almost narrowed my list to the Rollei P66s (autofocus) and the

P11 (or P11.0). Hasselblad would be nice but is out of my price

range (up to $300).

How do you feel about these two ones? advantages...disadvantages I

actually do not care about the dual option the p11 offers as i

already have a good 35mm projector. I am looking for the best out of

the two for 6x6. Which lens/lenses should i look for? they will be

projected in house within a distance of 4 to 6 meters.

I have heard that they may not work properly without glassless

mounts (specially autofocus in the p66s haunting too much). Is this

true? Is there something i can do about it or do i have to go for

the glass mounts?

If you know about manufacturing dates it would be nice to know too

(as far a i know the p11 is a sixties model while the p66s is late

70s) What about aprox. manufacturing periods?

 

Thanks in advance.

I can not find such a lever in my 3,5F (planar too) s.n. 2828xxx that is later than yours and mine does not have the newer 12/24 indicator... Am i missing something here?

Hi

I have read that B+W manufactures new filters for rolleiflex, that

are a good alternative to the old and expensive original ones (but i

do not know if they are bayIII or II).

Do you guys know if B+W or any other seller has new Bay II filters?

thanks

Forget about most the rollei accessories... and begin to take pictures.

Just get a lens hood and a lens cap (a filter will be ok too as has been pointed and less expensive of course) and when you think you really want it get a new screen from bill maxwell (around $120 i think).

the rolleifix is nice but not mandatory at all. A Bogen/Manfrotto quick release will do the job without problems will not damage the camera and it just will take 3 more seconds to open it...do not worth the price in my opinion...

Get the hood to avoid flare a filter or cap to protect the taking lens and you are done

AS it has already been pointed condition is more important than anything else with these cameras.

But besides that the best TLR Rolleiflexes (nor considering the "new" and really expensive GX and FX) are in my opinion the F series.

For backpacking i would go for the 3.5 F, instead of the 2.8 F (heavier than the 3.5F). It does not make a difference if it is fitted with a Zeiss Planar or a Schneider Xenotar, both are superb! (there has been and i guess will always be lots of discussion regarding their differences, but if you search in the archives you will realize that when looking at the results even experts who own both cannot see any difference...)Having said this the xenotars are a bit cheaper than the Planars cause of the brand Zeiss, but all the discussion regarding quality is just theorical stuff. No real difference!

Same goes for the differences between Xenar and Tessar. I would go for the planar or xenotar models cause you will be shooting environmental portraiture, so as not having to go for F11 or F16 to achieve the best results (like you would need if using xenar or tessar, that are nice lenses too).

Having said this you can also find 3.5 D or E models out there with planars or xenotars that will give you the same optical results as the F models at a cheaper price. Expect to pay US$600-700 for nice 3.5 F model, and between 450 and 650 for a D or E.

the heavier and just slightly faster 2.8 F will be more expensive...around $850... of course 2.8 D or E model will be less expensive but as heavier as the 2.8F

 

CLA is always good advice as well as a new screen for better focusing... and do not forget your handheld meter! you can not trust the sellenium meters that several of this models sport.

F100 is VERY sensible to batteries voltage... far more sensible than any other camera i know of.

I have had the same experiece. My camera is only 3 months old and the first set of batteries (alkaline) were no name... they lasted 1 roll!!!... so next two sets were panasonic (alkaline too)...they lasted 1 roll and a half each...by that time i was wondering that my camera had to go for a repair due to this problem (early F100 series had quite a few battery exhausted problems), so i figured aout it was time to change and installed a fresh set of Alkaline Energizers (a reputable battery manufacturer if Panasonic was not one...) results: 1 roll and they were dead...i was driving nuts and decided to take my camera to nikon in one week time but installed a set of alkaline Duracells before...results i still have not sent my camera to nikon i have run 6 rolls with this set and still going...

 

By the way: all these batteries were brand new and bought in reputable sellers...so had to be in good condition. All the rolls were shot in the same weather conditions(maybe the last ones in even colder temperatures).

 

Take your own conclusions...mine is that the Nikon has to better design this feature before starting sellinga pro level camera like the F100.

 

Best regards.

Do you know the name of that Kodak kit?

It is the same with my F100, i am not sure why and also fear it may fail in the future... hope i am wrong. It did not happen with my 8008s.

Hi

i want to have B&W slides, (I do not want to use scala as i live in

Spain and i can only get it procesed here in one city: Barcelona. I

live in Madrid and it is very expensive), and have heard that you

can get B&W slides rating XP2 super at 50... do not know about the

whole process as i still have to talk to my photography teacher but

any ideas, experiences... will be truly appreciated.

thanks.

Hi

It seems that my rolleiflex 3,5 F Planar has dust inside the taking

lens, not a lot, just 5 or 6 particles or dots, (it does not look

like fungus as they are all far away from each other instead of

forming a web), but i still would like to remove it. I have shot

slides and the quality is really good, so i do not know to what

extent do these dots affect the optical quality. As i live in Spain

taking the camera to a reputed tech in the USA or even another place

in Europe does not attract me and i would prefer to fix it myself if

nobody knows of a really good rolleiflex repair person in Spain.

 

Have you done it yourselves?

What may i face while trying to clean it? some people say this is

not really difficult operation while others diagree... Does the

Rolleiflex repair manual explain how to open the lens so as to clean

it? or is there any other book that may help me with this? maybe

even online manuals with pictures...

 

One last thing, if i finally open it and this happens to be fungus i

have read that the acid of a vinager solution can remove it, is this

right?

 

Any ideas, suggestions... are really appreciated

thanks

by the way i don´t like the toaster feature, yes the microwave...can opener still don´t know may be handy from time to time

the most amazing feature of the D5 (realease date May 2003) is that it will sport a connection for your cellular that will allow you to transmit your files without a computer anywhere in the world... laptop companies stock is falling cause of this. Save that money for an extra lens is the common advice. It is nikon purpose too to make this camera afordable, in the range of a F100... I really regret having bought one 2 months ago, but hey anyone heard something about an exchange policy?