justin_fullmer1

I am looking at purchasing one of these to do some painterly effects

on wedding photos. I am just begining to research them and don't

know much about either one. I currently use Photoshop CS2 and want

something that will integrate well with that. So.. my question is

which one? What do you use and why?

Thanks!

Thanks for all the responses! This is what make this forum great. Anyway it was a very simple plugin fix. I just downloaded the new plugin for camera raw from adobes site and now everything works fine. It would have been nice of Nikon to have put something out that indicated that the NEF files differed from the D70 to the D70s! From the little research that I did it also looks as if there is a problem when using ACDSEE and new D70s raw files as well. On a happier note I did uncover some references that said the D70s had less noise at the higher iso levels. I havent had a chance to check this claim out but soon will give it a side by side with the old D70. Thanks again for the help!

I have had a D70 for just over a year now and decided I would like a

second body as a back up and to mount my 80-200 on while doing

portrait shoots. That way I wouldn't have to switch lenses during

the middle of a shoot and break up the flow of things.

Anyway the D70s seems to work fine taking pictures in the raw file

format and also downloading them. The problem occurs when I try to

edit them with photoshop CS2. Camera raw wont open them or

recognize them. I get an error message that says "wrong type of

file". Now I have CS2 running on my office computer and on the

family computer as well. In the hopes that it was some glitch with

the office computer's software I tried the same thing on the other

computer and it was just the same. This did not happen when

shooting Jpegs. Those downloaded and were read by CS2 just fine, it

was only the Nikon NEF files that were unrecognizable by both

computers. Just as a test I plugged the old D70 in and it ran just

fine.

 

Is there anyone out there that might have experienced this problem

and might just have the solution? I am taking it back to the camera

shop in the morning and hopefully they can help out or at least

experience the same problem on thier machines as I have on mine.

Thanks!

I have the 8080 and is really a nice camera. Take a look in my folder if you want to see some examples.

I can't decide which would be better. Help! The E-300 is cheaper

and it is 8 megapixels versus six of the D70. Anyone out there with

experience with the two that could sway me towards one or the other?

 

Thanks!

I was wondering if anyone has used their old, manual focus, AIS

Nikon primes on the D70? I am getting conflicting reports. Some

say that they mount but wont meter and vice versa. So which is it?

I would think that the non metering problem wouldnt be such a big

deal as you get instant feedback as to whether your exposure was

correct or not.

 

Thanks!

Okay! Thanks that was all I needed to know. I won't be buying from these guys thats for sure.

Has anyone bought anything from TCS Camera on line? If so was it a

good experience? I was looking at buying the Nikon D70s kit, but it

doesnt come with the software, batteries charger, cables etc. You

have to buy those seperately which bumps the price way up so that

what was a good deal doesn't look so good anymore.

 

Also I am still having a hard time deciding between the Nikon D70 and

the Pentax istD. Anyone else out there in the same situation and

which one did you get?

 

Thanks!!

Ive got two QL17 G3's that have had CLA's and work perfectly. If your interested in one email me off line.

Sorry to take so long to respond. Computer problems took me off-line for awhile.

It's a Yashica Mat, not the 124g version. I can't remember how much I paid for it, but I think I will just hang on to it after checking how much they are selling for on the auction site.

Hi,

I am thinking of selling my beloved Yashica Mat TLR on the famouse

auction site. About six months ago I had the shutter calibrated and

all the light seals replaced and everything cleaned. It works like

the day I bought it all those years ago. I just haven't been using

it that much and thought I would sell it to make room for some

new "old" cameras. I was wondering if I could get $250 for it. Does

anyone have an idea of what these older cameras are going for? No

way will I just unload it for a paltry $40 or $50 might as well hang

on to it for old times sake then.

Thanks!

Thanks everyone for the input, however no one touched on stand development and pronounced edge effects? Perhaps this isn't the developer for that. If the previouse poster that didn't care for Xtol could expound a little on that I would be very interested. I have used it for years and really liked the results with Tri-x and Hp5. For pushing two to three stops it has been wonderful.

I haven't been able to find Xtol, my favorite developer, anywhere

lately and have finally ordered some from B&H. In the meantime I

have been using HC-110, but am not happy with the results. I went

ahead and mixed the stock solution and have been using solution B,

but I am not really satisfied with the results yet. I had read that

one of the beautiful things about HC-110 is that the times and

dilutions are linear; you cut dilution B in half for the "unofficial"

dilution H and simply double the development time. Does this also

work for pushing and pulling? One other thing is that I have read

that by using HC-110 with stand development one can get pronounced

edge effects. Is this correct? Anyway if there is anyone with some

tips or tricks to using HC-110 I would appreciate some info. I am

using Ilford Hp5 and T-max 400 films along with Fp4.

Thankyou!

In 6x6 format I have both pulled tri-x to 200 and pushed it to 800 with results that were to my liking. I used Xtol at a 1-3 dilution and for my purposes it has always worked great. I havent blown up anything larger than 16x20 but contrast and apparent sharpness were just fine for me.

Good luck!

I too am fond of high contrast and grain. For me grain, if it is controlled, adds to the overall look and apparent sharpness of a photo. Anyway I have been pushing tri-x to 3200 for some time now. One way I have discovered to control contrast, grain, and midtones is to agitate for only part of the time in the developer and use stand development for the rest. My recipe is xtol diluted 1 to 3 using a large enough tank to get the recommended 100ml of solution. For 3200 speed I agitate for 10 minutes followed by 30 minutes of stand development. I use a water jacket to control temperature during the stand development process and make extra sure that the stop bath and fixer are at the same temperature as the developer, usually 65degrees instead of 68. Abrupt changes in temperature can cause unwanted grain clumping. I have made 11x14 enlargements of 35mm negatives using this technique that have a very tight grain that you have to be right in front of the photo to see. Also the careful use of selenium toner, bleach and other toners of course can help add punch to the tonal graduation.

I have been wanting to take some pictures of star trails. Where the

exposure is several hours and records the spiral pattern of stars

caused by the rotation of the earth over time.

 

I will be using a medium format tlr with 80mm lens for this project

and was wondering what speed film I should use and also times and

aperatures.

 

I have taken several so far using t-max 400 but havent yet developed

the negatives. I have kept careful records of each exposure but was

curious to know if I am even in the ball park on exposure. Any help,

ideas, or examples would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Sorry I forgot to mention that it is 2.25x2.25.

Thanks for the responses.

Hi I have a client that wants some photos taken of thier family and

the enlargments need to be pretty large, 30x40. I was thinking about

using fuji npc 160 rating it at 200. Does anyone think that there

may be a problem with grain with this film at this size of an

enlargment. I have gone as large as 16x20 with no problem with NPC

but I worry that this large there might be trouble. Any suggestions

on a different film or should this be fine. Thanks!

You could increase the size of the films grain when you go from one extreme temp to the other. I don't know about a ten or twelve degree difference but it might make a small difference if you are making large prints from 35mm. Basically the way I work is that if I keep the temperatures constant, agitation techniques the same and then something goes awry it is easier to find out what went wrong because the variables are fewer. Also when you do want to change your procedures for a desired artistic effect then you have a benchmark from where to begin. I am not an expert at all but hope this is what you were asking.

Hi,

What is the guide Number on a vivitar 283?

Thanks!

I have been learning and shooting a lot of 120 format black and white

film lately. One thing I am finding out is that for some reason Tri-

x the iso 320 version for 120 not the 400 is just crap. At least

the box of 5 rolls that I got. I don't seem to be get anything with

good contrast or sharpness. While the ilford hp5+ I shot of the same

subject developed in the same developer is great. What gives? Are

others noticing any problems with tri-x iso 320 in 120 format. I am

dissapointed because it is slightly cheaper than hp5 and tri-x is my

favorite 35mm film.

Here is a silly thread for fun. I was just wondering if anyone out

there have both a mamiya tlr and a yashica. It seems to me that my

Yashica mat with the yashinon lens is sharper and has better overall

contrast than some of my blue dot mamiya tlr lenses. Anyone out

there with the same experience. It is frustrating because I paid

less than 200 for the Yashica and more than twice that for the Mamiya

gear.

Thanks to everybody for responding. I know that its not my development I have it down to a science now and the test roll from the F5 confirmed that. I contacted a local repair guy and he is going to take a look at the shutter. I too suspect that this might be the problem but was hoping that I wasn't going to have spend another hundred to get going into medium format but oh well lifes too short.

I recently acquired a nice mamiya c22o and have been using a weston

master II light meter for the readings and also my nikons. What I am

finding out is that I am severly underexposing (thin, mostly clear)

the negatives. I have been shooting tri-x rated at iso 320 and

bracketing several stops in each direction in order to pin down

exposure and development times. I develop in Xtol 1-2 at 68 deg. for

6 to 7 minutes. Several rolls now are comming back underexposed. I

know that it is not the developer because I have developed some 35mm

rolls in the same soup on the same night and they were great. I had

suspicions about the weston meter I was using and so used my Nikon f5

for some readings but still the same problem. I am wondering if the

120 version of tri-x just requires a lot shorter development time.

Anyone have any ideas on what I should do next. How about your times

and temps for tri-x 120 in Xtol.

Thankyou for taking the time to respond!!!

Thanks for all the responses. Actually I am getting great coverage with the 75mm. The problem is with the enlarger. I can get the entire frame of the negative but there is a framed or vignetted area all around the outside of the print where the light falls off. I tested this by just puttting the empty negative carrier in the enlarger. I have a nice square of even illumination until I get to the very edge and then the drop off. I was thinking that the 105mm lens would reduce the image down enough where it wouldn't be in the drop off area.